Can I use azelaic acid in the morning?
When we think of skincare ingredients that can exfoliate, a few popular acids come to mind. Glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids are the clear leaders, but there’s one underdog: azelaic acid.
Although azelaic acid can work in a similar way, it shouldn’t be confused with other AHAs or BHAs because this acid is actually a dicarboxylic acid. This acid peel removes dead skin cells that build up on the surface of the skin and unclogs pores. Plus, it’s rich in antioxidants. This allows azelaic acid to help protect the skin’s lipid barrier, keeping it strong and functional.
All of this sounds impressive, right? The final benefit of azelaic acid is that it’s one of the gentlest acids, helping to rejuvenate the complexion and is suitable for all skin types, even sensitive skin. However, I still recommend consulting a doctor or dermatologist before incorporating them into your daily skin care routine. It goes without saying that the percentages used in formulas with or without azelaic acid vary, from high concentrations of 20% in prescription formulas to lower percentages in over-the-counter formulas. There’s no denying that your skin will love the benefits of this acid, and you’ll soon be blown away by its effects. If you want to know more about azelaic acid and its benefits, read our dedicated blog post.
Now that we’ve briefly reviewed what the acid does to your skin, let’s move on to answering some of the questions we’ve received about this ingenious ingredient. So, let’s get started with whether or not you can use azelaic acid in the morning.
Should I use azelaic acid in the morning or at night?
That depends on the opinion of the dermatologist you speak to. Some prefer to use it in the morning, while others recommend using it only at night. When incorporating azelaic acid into your routine, consider your skin type and the other active ingredients you regularly use. Because to reap the benefits of azelaic acid, you may need to make some changes to your routine. For example, if you already use a salicylic acid serum at night, you can replace it with azelaic acid. This way, your skin will benefit from both ingredients and avoid unnecessary irritation and breakouts.
If you want my advice, I recommend using azelaic acid at night, especially if you use prescription products. This acid exfoliates the skin and repairs any damage caused by its antioxidant properties. Without the effects of free radicals such as UV rays and pollution, the active ingredients work while you sleep, leaving you with a refreshed, healthy complexion in the morning.
Can I use azelaic acid during the day?
Yes, you can use azelaic acid during the day. In fact, you can apply azelaic acid twice a day. However, this is only possible once your skin has become accustomed to the powerful power. You can achieve this by initially applying azelaic acid once a day on your face. The easiest way to see how your skin reacts to azelaic acid is to do a 24-hour patch test. Simply apply 10p of the product to the inside of your forearm and leave it on for 24 hours. Once this time has passed and you have not noticed any signs of irritation, dryness or reaction, you can try the product on your face.
Another important step you must always follow in order to protect your skin and allow the acid to work is to apply SPF 50 every day, even on cloudy and overcast days, as UVA is constantly present and can penetrate clouds, water and glass.
Can I use azelaic acid in the morning and retinol in the evening?
Of course, as I mentioned, you can use azelaic acid twice a day, but you should avoid this when using retinol. Stacking these active ingredients together can cause excessive exfoliation, which can lead to redness, itching, flaking skin, irritation, and general discomfort. This doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the benefits of both ingredients. If you use azelaic acid in the morning and then retinol in the evening, there will be enough time between applications to avoid unwanted side effects.
Can you use a moisturizer after using azelaic acid?
You actually can. I recommend choosing a moisturizer that has a good hydrating effect with nourishing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, or vitamin E. The benefit of applying a moisturizer after using azelaic acid is that not only does it allow the active ingredients to fully penetrate the skin, but the moisturizer formula itself forms a physical barrier on the surface of the skin. This barrier prevents free radicals, environmental impacts, and other harmful agents from penetrating the surface of the skin and damaging the epidermis.
Can azelaic acid reduce acne scars?
Yes, azelaic acid can help reduce the appearance of acne scars. If you don’t know what acne scars are, they usually form on the skin after a dark spot outbreak. If left untreated, they can become more pigmented when exposed to the sun, leading to an uneven skin tone. Azelaic acid can fight these acne scars by gently removing the layer of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. By clearing these deposits from the skin, it can help to brighten the skin and make the pigmentation of acne scars less noticeable.
I hope this answers your questions about using azelaic acid in the morning. If you have any further questions, don’t forget to reach out to our skincare experts on Instagram.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.