Microneedling and lactic acid, one is a popular treatment and the other is a popular ingredient in skincare. Since both offer impressive results, you wonder how or if you can combine them together. Before we get into that, let’s quickly review what lactic acid is and how microneedling works, hopefully that makes more sense and we can see who’s paying attention!
What is microneedling?
Microneedling uses tiny sterilized needles that help stimulate collagen production.
The needles are 0.5 to 2.5 in diameter and feel like light needles. They don’t penetrate too deep into the surface of the skin.
It can improve the appearance of scars caused by acne and minor superficial wounds.
Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while helping to firm the skin.
Targets hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sun-damaged areas.
Can be used all over the body, from skin to scalp to feet.
This minimally invasive treatment dates back to 1995 and has come a long way. With new technology and a slew of new skincare enthusiasts looking for their nearest doctor.
The results are immediate and will also ensure plumper, more youthful skin in the long term.
What is Lactic Acid?
A chemical peel that belongs to the class of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).
Derived from sour milk and developed synthetically for use in skincare.
Has a larger molecular size, which means it cannot penetrate the lower dermis and cause irritation and dryness.
Works on the outer surface, removing dead skin cells, bacteria, dirt and debris that can build up and cause breakouts, making your complexion look dull.
Has hydrating properties, which means it draws moisture into the skin and locks it into the skin barrier, strengthening it and protecting it from free radicals and other environmental aggressors.
If you want to learn more about lactic acid and its benefits for your skin, read our dedicated blog post.
Can lactic acid be used after microneedling?
Not really, while lactic acid is one of the gentlest forms of AHA, it should be applied to the skin after microneedling. This is because exfoliation is one of the main benefits of lactic acid and lactic acid can cause over-irritation. When the tiny needles roll over the skin during microneedling, the skin is stimulated to think that the surface has been damaged and it starts to produce collagen. While this can irritate the skin, it also temporarily weakens the skin, meaning anything applied to the skin will penetrate deeper into the skin. This can be a problem with products like acids, which become too strong and cause irritation and other unwanted side effects.
When can acids be used after microneedling?
Chemical peels and similar acids like glycolic and salicylic acid should be avoided for at least 2-3 days during the healing period after microneedling treatment. This prevents these peels from over-irritating the skin and causing redness, dryness, and irritation. You should also avoid other active ingredients like any form of retinoids, as this can cause negative side effects.
However, if the acid you are using is hyaluronic acid, you can apply it to the skin after the microneedling treatment is completed. Because although it is called an acid, HA works differently as it does not exfoliate the skin. Instead, it is known for its hydrating properties, making it a powerful ingredient as it locks in moisture, boosts collagen production, and hydrates the skin.
After 2-3 days, you can apply acid to your skin, but I recommend doing this after applying hyaluronic acid to avoid irritation. It is also very important to apply SPF 50 daily to protect your skin from UV rays.
What not to do after microneedling?
As I mentioned before, you should avoid using skin ingredients like retinol, AHA, BHA, and vitamin C after microneedling. You should also avoid using any strong perfumes as this can cause redness and increased sensitivity.
Many dermatologists recommend waiting at least 48 hours before applying makeup or cleansers to your skin. Before applying active ingredients, especially those as effective as retinol and vitamin C.
If you are concerned about what to apply to your skin after microneedling, I strongly recommend consulting your doctor, dermatologist, or the professional who performed the treatment.
What serum should you use after microneedling?
Hyaluronic acid is the best serum for microneedling. As I mentioned before, a clever moisturizer can provide impressive hydration without increasing the risk of skin sensitivity and adverse reactions.
Because HA can bind twice its molecular weight of water, the skin is moisturized. After the treatment, the surface of the skin looks plumper, younger, and the skin is soothed. After a microneedling treatment, the skin is often left tight and dry, which can cause a lot of discomfort and weaken the skin barrier if left alone. This makes the skin vulnerable to further damage and stimulates sebum production, which in turn leads to excess oil and negative effects such as frequent breakouts, skin problems, and complexion blemishes.
Can I use Vitamin C after microneedling?
No, actually not, because Vitamin C can cause skin irritation after microneedling. You’ll find that the powerful energy source penetrates too deep into the dermis, causing increased sensitivity, severe dryness, irritation, redness, and a weakened skin barrier. In other words, your skin will become more damaged and existing damage will become more severe. As with the other acids mentioned, for best results and no side effects, wait 2-3 days after microneedling before using Vitamin C.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
