Can You Mix Azelaic Acid with Moisturiser?
If you’re up to date with the latest blog posts here on Beauty Insiders, you will be aware of how a lot of focus has been on the unsung hero, azelaic acid. Now, don’t worry too much if you haven’t, I won’t take it personally, but here is a brief rundown of what the ingredient is and how it works on the skin.
What is azelaic acid?
Naturally derived from grains, such as barley and rye, azelaic acid is an effective skin ingredient that can be used to combat acne and rosacea flare-ups. It can do this with the help of the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties found in the powerhouse.
You’ll often find over the counter products often contain percentages of the acid that are 15% or lower, if you are wanting something that is more potent, you can opt for a professional peel or facial.
It is important that you consult with a doctor or dermatologist about finding the best formula to target any acne concerns, without any drying or irritating side effects. If you wanted to know more about azelaic acid, check out our dedicated blog post about it how it works on the skin.
Now we have had a little refresher, we can dive right in to finding out more about whether you can mix azelaic acid with moisturiser.
How do you use azelaic acid with moisturiser?
There are a variety of skincare products that contain active levels of azelaic acid, from face washes, serums, and toners. This will determine how you use azelaic acid with a moisturiser, but here is a routine to for you to use that is found to be simple and effective.
Cleanse the skin fully with a face wash or cleanser
Follow the cleanser with an exfoliating toner
Apply a layer of hyaluronic acid enriched onto the skin to help lock moisture into the surface
Follow this with a serum containing azelaic acid
Apply a layer of moisturiser
Finish off with an SPF of 30 and above if you are using this routine during the day
Everyone’s skin is different so this routine may require some tweaking to fit and suit, but it is a highly effective routine that allows each active ingredient to perform its benefits on the skin with little to no negative side effects.
The role of a moisturiser is often something that isn’t clear to many of us. Unlike serums, it is only able to work on the outer layers of the skin. If you are wanting to target specific concerns, such as signs of ageing or hyperpigmentation, it’s best to use a serum for that and instead use your moisturiser to create a physical layer on the skin. This will act as a barrier and help protect the complexion from exposure to free radical damage, such as pollution and UV rays.
Do I put on azelaic acid before or after moisturiser?
This is down to personal preference and the formula containing azelaic acid itself, however, if you were to ask for my opinion, I would apply azelaic acid before your moisturiser and after a serum containing hyaluronic acid.
The hyaluronic acid in the serum will help lock moisture into the skin and counteract the drying effects azelaic acid can often have. Follow this with a serum enriched with azelaic acid will not only help it to absorb quickly but will help it deliver quicker results. Finally, apply a physical barrier on the surface of the skin with your moisturiser for overall improved protection.
Can I use niacinamide and azelaic acid together?
Yes, you absolutely can! The beauty of niacinamide is the fact that it carries the same humectant benefits of hyaluronic acid as well as some additional benefits of its own, such as its ability to refine the pores and strengthen the skin barrier. By teaming the pair together, you’ll find there is a potent power duo that will battle against breakouts, spots, and blackheads. You will also find, that if you are prone to dark spots or scarring post acne these two skin ingredients will help counteract the pigmentation of the discolouration of the skin whilst reducing blemishes and preventing any new ones from developing.
Azelaic acid as an ingredient is often favoured by many skin experts and dermatologist to help combat acne, however salicylic acid is considered the more popular choice for many already have an established understanding of the BHA. There is nothing preventing you from using these acids in your routine, it will just be a case of alternating the days you apply them. Just a word of advice, it’s best to use them during your evening routine for added protection against certain free radicals that are present during the day, such as UV light.
What goes first niacinamide or azelaic acid?
Ideally you should apply niacinamide before azelaic acid as this will ensure the skin is hydrated and more absorbent. This will help the acid to penetrate the lower layers whilst avoiding any unwanted skin irritation, such as dryness, itching, redness, and rashes on the skin. Having said that, it is important to remember the basic skin rule of application, starting with the thinnest consistency and working your way up to thicker formulas. Ensuring you apply your products correctly will ensure the skin reaps the rewards of these ingredients allowing them to deliver optimal results.
Can I use azelaic acid on wet skin?
Not really, as azelaic acid is not the same as other acids, such as hyaluronic acid. HA contains humectant properties that benefit from being applied to wet skin as the moisture is locked in, leaving your complexion plumped, nourished, and hydrated. For the best results with azelaic acid, apply it onto semi-dry skin after you used hyaluronic acid, and before your moisturiser.
There you have a little more information about using azelaic acid together with a moisturiser. Don’t forget to get in touch if you have any further skincare questions, you can find one of our skin experts on Instagram.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
