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Can You Use Retinol With AHA?
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Can You Use Retinol With AHA?

12 June 2024



Can You Use Retinol With AHA?


So, you’re new to all thing’s skincare, or maybe you’ve decided to up the ante when it comes to your already established routine. Either way, you have no doubt already stumbled across the likes of retinol and AHA. You understand that adding both into your daily routine will take your skin clarity to the next level, the question is, can you use retinol with AHA? That is exactly what we’ll be investigating it today’s blog post.


If you are still wanting to know a little more about both ingredients and their benefits, I’ll share with you some links below to our dedicated blog posts.


What is retinol and what are its skincare benefits?


What are AHAs and what do they do for the skin?


Now, let’s dive in and find out more about using AHAs and retinol together in your daily skincare routine.


What goes on first AHA or retinol?


This is very much dependant on which product formula these ingredients come in. There is a basic skin rule that involves applying your skincare products in the correct order, starting with the thinnest consistency, and moving up to a thicker consistency. By doing this you are ensuring that each active ingredient can penetrate the skin and get to work without having to compete against a physical barrier caused by a thick product applied first.


Retinol is often formulated in products that are usually applied towards the end of your routine, such as oils, serums, and moisturisers. AHAs, such as glycolic acid are often found in many products with the most popular being cleansers and toners, meaning they will be the first to be applied on the skin before retinol.


Is AHA the same as retinol?


No AHA and retinol are not the same. This confusion may be a result of the misconception that retinol exfoliants the skin, when in fact, it increases the skin cell turn over cycle resulting in new skin cells making their way to the surface quicker. AHAs, also known as alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid are chemical exfoliants meaning they can slough away dead skin cells, bacteria, and impurities that can build-up on the skin surface. You’ll also find that retinol and AHAs work on different areas of the skin, with retinol penetrating the lower layers of the skin more effectively than AHAs.


Can you use retinol and glycolic acid together?


Yes and no, you can use retinol and glycolic acid together but should be applied during different times of the day. As retinol is sensitive to UV light and becomes useless when exposed to sunlight, it is best to apply it in the evening. This therefore means you can use your glycolic acid product during your morning routine. By applying these ingredients in separate formulations you’ll reap the rewards of the plethora of skin benefits they provide, whilst by-passing any increased skin sensitivity or irritation.


Before trying any new skincare ingredients or products it is best to perform a patch test for 24 hours. Apply a 10p size about of the product on the inside of your forearm, leave the product there overnight and if there is no sign of irritation in the morning, your skin is happy and ready for you to apply it to the face.


Can I use AHA and retinol together?


Yes, but with caution and ensuring you are applying it during the correct time of day. Many of us are unfamiliar about the fact that the pH levels of the skin play a vital role in ensuring the skin barrier remains healthy and happy. When you apply skincare products that contain different pH levels an imbalance occurs which can often lead to flare-up in reaction or skin reaction. Therefore, there should always be at least 30 minutes in between applications when using an AHA and retinol. If you have a skin that can be slightly temperamental you should alternate the time of day to apply AHA formula followed with your retinol product in the evening.


I would strongly advise against using AHA and retinol together as this will lead to the skin becoming stripped of oil and become dry, tight, uncomfortable, and prone to suffering from more skin damage when exposed to free radical, such as UV rays, pollution, central heating, and harsh weather conditions. If you have any concerns with your products, consult with your GP or dermatologist for peace of mind.


Does retinol go on before or after serum?


As I have already mentioned, this really depends on the product formulation your retinol is blended in to. You’ll often find that retinol is found in face oils, serums, and moisturisers which are applied towards the end of your routine. Serums are lightweight and have a thinner consistency which tend to work in the lower layers of the skin. Many find that applying 2 serums containing complimentary ingredients before a thicker moisturiser deliver impressive results.


When should you apply retinol?


You should apply retinol at the end of your evening skincare routine, this will avoid the retinol from losing its potency as it won’t be exposed to sun light. You’ll find retinol is formulated in products, such as serums and moisturisers which remain on the skin for a longer period compared to cleansers that are rinsed off. By applying retinol in the evening, you are allowing it to receive the best opportunity to work undisturbed on the skin whilst you catch up on your beauty sleep. To counteract the common drying effects of retinol I would also recommend you use a serum enriched in hyaluronic acid. The humectant traits of this clever ingredient will draw moisture into the skin and lock it into skin keeping it healthy and plumped all day.
I hope that today we have answered some of the questions you have about whether you can use retinol with AHA. If you have any further skincare questions you can come and find me over on Procoal’s Instagram, look forward to seeing you there!
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
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