The Science of Capsaicin in Skin Care
Capsaicin is often thought of as a potent phytochemical found in chili peppers.
But not only does capsaicin give chili peppers their infamous hot flavor, it also has a calming effect, making it one of the most unique anti-inflammatory ingredients in skin care today.
Its powerful anti-inflammatory properties may provide long-lasting relief for conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and more.
Curious? Read on to learn more about the science behind capsaicin in skin care and why this ingredient is being researched more than ever before.
Take your free Baumann Skin Type Test today to see if this ingredient and others are a good match for your skin type!
What is capsaicin?
Capsaicin is the compound that gives chili peppers their spicy flavor (10). It’s found in varieties like habanero peppers, Scotch bonnet peppers, jalapenos, and chili powder (10).
Chemically, capsaicin is classified as a phenylpropanoid, a type of organic compound found in many plants.
Capsaicin is produced by chili peppers as a defense mechanism to ward off pests like fungi, insects, and small mammals (10).
The burning sensation caused by capsaicin is meant to scare off these potential predators, but we eat it and apply it to our faces.
Where does capsaicin come from?
As mentioned above, capsaicin is naturally found in chili peppers, with the highest concentrations in the hotter varieties (10).
For skin care products, capsaicin is chemically synthesized in a lab so that the exact chemical structure of the chili pepper is retained (10).
This allows manufacturers to control the concentration in creams, ointments, and serums.
Benefits of Capsaicin
Capsaicin is becoming increasingly important in skin care due to its many beneficial properties:
Anti-inflammatory – Capsaicin has powerful anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce the redness and swelling associated with conditions such as eczema and psoriasis (1,4).
Pain relief – Capsaicin effectively relieves pain by binding to pain receptors, first activating the neurons and then desensitizing them (1,3,4). It’s like fighting fire with fire.
Psoriasis treatment – Studies have shown that topical capsaicin can reduce scaling, skin thickness, redness, and itching associated with psoriasis (4,5).
Reduces cellulite – Capsaicin can affect the body’s ability to utilize fat, which studies have shown to have a positive effect on treating cellulite (8).
Antioxidant – Laboratory tests have shown that capsaicin has the ability to scavenge free radicals, which suggests that it may have antioxidant effects in skin care formulations (7).
Risks and Side Effects of Capsaicin
Risks and Side Effects of Capsaicin
While capsaicin shows promise in many skin treatments, it also has some potential side effects to consider:
Irritation – Capsaicin is a strong skin irritant, especially in higher concentrations. Symptoms of burning, stinging, redness, and dryness may occur (4,6).
Toxicity – Concerns about the toxicity of capsaicin are controversial. Some older studies have linked it to cancer, while more recent studies suggest that it has anticancer properties (2).
Further research is needed into interactions with cancer.
Breastfeeding – Topically applied capsaicin may pass into breast milk and may affect the health of the infant (4). Breastfeeding mothers should be careful.
Neurotoxicity – High doses of capsaicin can produce neurotoxic effects, causing nerve damage, although this is less likely with topical applications (4). Is capsaicin toxic?
The toxicity of capsaicin is still controversial.
Some older studies have raised concerns about its carcinogenicity, while more recent studies suggest that it may actually have anticancer properties (2).
Most experts agree that topical capsaicin is probably safe because the amount of capsaicin that penetrates the skin is very small (4).
However, pregnant women, breastfeeding women, or people with other health problems should consult a doctor before use.
How does capsaicin treat inflammation?
How does capsaicin treat inflammation?
Capsaicin can relieve inflammation from a variety of causes. What’s interesting about capsaicin is its unique mechanism for treating inflammation and pain.
Capsaicin initially activates sensory neurons in the skin. This causes a burning or tingling sensation.
This tingling sensation can change depending on the concentration of capsaicin in the product. Second, regular use of capsaicin causes sensory neurons to become less sensitive.
This reduces the activity of neurotransmitters. The neurons are no longer able to send the pain and itch signals associated with inflammation.
In addition, capsaicin blocks the inflammatory pathway NF-kB. This pathway activates pro-inflammatory cytokines—proteins that trigger inflammation.
By blocking NF-kB, the concentration of pro-inflammatory cytokines decreases.
In summary, capsaicin initially provides temporary pain relief by reducing skin sensitivity.
Later, as neurons become less sensitive and cytokine production decreases, it can relieve long-term inflammation.
This unique two-step process makes capsaicin useful for treating chronic inflammatory skin conditions like psoriasis.
Capsaicin Fights Cellulite
Cellulite is characterized by dimpled and bumpy skin, typically on the thighs and buttocks. It is caused by the deformation of subcutaneous fat cells and connective tissue.
Although it is harmless, many people are looking for ways to reduce its appearance.
Preliminary research suggests that topical capsaicin may smooth cellulite.
One study found that applying a 0.3% capsaicin cream to the thighs daily for 6 weeks resulted in smoother skin texture and less cellulite compared to a placebo cream (8).
How does capsaicin improve the appearance of cellulite? It is thought to work in two ways:
Altering fat metabolism – Capsaicin appears to prevent fat from accumulating in fat cells in areas prone to cellulite (8). This can reduce fat deposits that cause dimpling.
Increased Circulation – Increased circulation can reduce tissue inflammation, which can make cellulite more noticeable.
The short-term irritation of capsaicin triggers inflammation, which subsequently leads to increased local blood flow (8).
While initial results are promising, further research is needed to fully understand the effects of capsaicin on cellulite.
As capsaicin has been studied so frequently, this is the only product we currently offer that contains this ingredient:
Capsaicin Fights Skin Aging
Preliminary research suggests that capsaicin has antioxidant properties that may help slow signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles and sagging (7).
By eliminating free radicals in the skin, capsaicin may help the complexion look younger over time. However, further research is needed in this area.
Capsaicin Treats Hyperpigmentation
By affecting the synthesis and maturation of melanin, capsaicin may reduce hyperpigmentation problems such as melasma, freckles, and sun spots (9).
Use regularly in combination with other whitening ingredients such as
Azelaic acid
Cysteamine
Hexylresorcinol
Retinol
Salicylic acid
Capsaicin vs Ricinoleic acid
Capsaicin vs Ricinoleic acid
I have heard of comparisons between capsaicin and ricinoleic acid, the active ingredient in castor oil. Here is a quick comparison of the two ingredients.
Both capsaicin and ricinoleic acid have anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce swelling and skin irritation. But their mechanisms of action and side effects differ:
Capsaicin temporarily relieves pain by initially activating sensory neurons, followed by long-term desensitization. This initially causes a burning or stinging sensation in the skin.
Ricinoleic acid does not cause a burning sensation initially, but over repeated use over several days, it gradually relieves inflammation and pain.
This is achieved through pathways other than capsaicin.
The fatty acid ricinoleic acid also has emulsifying properties that can break down fats and oils. Capsaicin does not have this ability.
Ricinoleic acid appears to be less irritating to the skin, while capsaicin is known for its irritating side effects such as redness, dryness, and peeling.
So, in summary, both ingredients can reduce inflammation, but ricinoleic acid works more gradually and non-irritatingly, which may be better suited for some people with sensitive skin.
However, capsaicin may provide faster initial relief. For these and other reasons, castor oil is preferred over capsaicin for many of the same skin care applications.
Here are some of my favorite products that contain castor oil (which is rich in ricinoleic acid):
Conclusion
Despite research showing the potential benefits of capsaicin for skin health, there are several factors that limit its widespread use in skin care products:
Irritation – Capsaicin often causes burning, stinging, redness, and dryness, especially in higher concentrations. Many consumers find this irritating.
Lack of research – Much of the research on capsaicin’s effects on the skin is still in the early stages or limited in scope.
Further clinical research is needed to convince skin care companies to use it.
Concerns about efficacy – It’s unclear whether the small amounts of capsaicin that are able to penetrate the skin will provide enough anti-inflammatory or antioxidant effects compared to other ingredients.
Availability – Because capsaicin must be chemically synthesized to control its effects, it is more expensive than most plant extracts used in skin care.
The supply chain is limited.
Safety Concerns – While topical application may be safe, there are concerns about capsaicin’s toxicity when absorbed into the bloodstream.
This has deterred some skincare brands.
In summary, capsaicin is promising, but more research is needed to confirm its benefits.
If formulations can optimize absorption and minimize irritation, it may gain popularity.
To find out if capsaicin or similar ingredients are right for your skin type, take the free Baumann Skin Type Test today!
