Carrageenan in Skin Care: What It Is & How It Works
Carrageenan is a processed ingredient derived from a type of red seaweed called Chondrus crispus, or “Irish moss.” It is found in a number of skin care and food products, though there is an important distinction between cosmetic-grade and food-grade carrageenan. Cosmetic-grade carrageenan is primarily used in skin care products for its ability to give formulations a smooth texture and stability, as well as hydrating the skin.
You will find this ingredient in everything from moisturizers and cleansers to shampoos and toothpastes. Learn more about what carrageenan is and its benefits and drawbacks when used in skin care.
This ingredient is commonly used to enhance the texture and stabilization of skin care formulations.
It also helps to add moisture to the skin.
It can clog pores and may cause redness or rashes in those with an allergy or sensitivity to this ingredient.
Table of content
What is carrageenan
What Is Carrageenan?
Carrageenan is a polysaccharide extracted from a type of red seaweed commonly known as Irish moss. This seaweed is harvested and then processed to extract carrageenan, which is used widely in both the food and skincare industries.
In skin care, carrageenan is widely-used as a thickener, emulsifier, and stabilizer in products that need a smooth texture, such as moisturizers, gels, and serums, or to keep ingredients from separating. Additionally, carrageenan is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts water, so it can also help to hydrate the skin.
Active Compounds
Some of the key compounds that give this ingredient the ability to smooth skin care formulations and hydrate the skin include:
Sulfated polysaccharides. These sugar-based molecules have sulfate groups attached, which help carrageenan to bind water and form gels. This compound also contributes to the hydrating properties and textural stability of this ingredient.
Galactose residues. Galactose is a monosaccharide, or a simple sugar, and contributes to this ingredient’s hydrophilic nature by attracting and retaining moisture.
3,6-anhydro-D-galactose. This is also a sugar derivative that enhances the gel-forming ability and flexibility of carrageenan that helps to stabilize and thicken formulations.
Benefits of Carrageenan
Benefits
Carrageenan is often used in skin care products for these purposes:
Moisturization. Its water-binding properties help to improve skin hydration.
Improved texture and spreadability. This ingredient improves the viscosity and spreadability of skin care formulations, creating smooth formulations.
Stabilization. It also acts as an emulsifier, preventing the separation of ingredients in creams and lotions and enhancing product stability.
Drawbacks
Some people are allergic to carrageenan, which can result in redness, rashes, hives, and other signs of skin allergies. Carrageenan in skin care products may also contribute to breakouts, since it is considered a comedogenic ingredient.
Related: Carrageenan in Food Products
There has been a lot of hype lately about avoiding carrageenan in food products. Food-grade carrageenan is added to many different food products as a thickening and stabilizing agent. However, some studies have linked this ingredient to digestive issues, including inflammation, bloating, and irritable bowel syndrome. Concerns have also been raised about its potential to degrade into poligeenan, a substance associated with gastrointestinal problems and an increased risk of colon cancer (3).
While the FDA still maintains that carrageenan is generally recognized as safe (GRAS), people at a greater risk for GI issues or colon cancer may choose to avoid or limit this ingredient in food products.
When used in topical products, however, carrageenan does not come with these same risks.
Skin Care Products with Carrageenan
Carrageenan can be found in a wide variety of skin care and personal care products, but it is most commonly found in products aimed at adding hydration, like those shown below.
Bottom Line
Carrageenan is a multifunctional ingredient in skin care, offering benefits like improved texture and spreadability, stabilization, and moisturization. While concerns exist regarding its use in food products, this ingredient is generally considered safe and effective when used topically. If you have a carrageenan allergy or are prone to breakouts, however, this ingredient may not be right for you.
Be sure to find out your skin type before investing in skin care products so you can be sure they are a good match for your skin.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
