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Chapped Lips vs. Cold Sores: How to Know What You’re Dealing With
Beauty

Chapped Lips vs. Cold Sores: How to Know What You’re Dealing With

4 January 2025


Chapped Lips vs. Cold Sores: How to Know What You’re Dealing With




Lips are a prominent and unique facial feature that people love to highlight, but they’re also a source of skin problems, especially during the cold, dry months when lips can easily become dry, chapped, cracked, and painful. Other lip problems include cold sores, which are caused by a virus and can be painful. Sometimes it can be hard to tell the difference between chapped lips and cold sores, but knowing what you’re dealing with is crucial to treatment.



Below, learn how to tell the difference between cold sores and chapped lips, and how to treat both conditions, according to dermatologists.




What is chapped lips?



Chapped lips are when your lips become flaky, cracked, and inflamed. The tissue that makes up your lips is similar to a mucous membrane, like the ones in your nose and mouth, but they have an ultra-thin layer of skin. The problem is that this skin lacks the protective features of normal skin, making it very susceptible to dryness and irritation.




“Lips are very susceptible to drying out because they don’t have sebaceous glands and hair follicles, and therefore don’t have the protective layer of sebum that the rest of our normal, hairy skin has,” explains Dr. Kristina Collins, double-board certified dermatologist and founder of foy by Dr. Collins. They also have a very thin stratum corneum, or outermost layer, compared to the rest of our skin, according to Collins.



The stratum corneum is a protective layer of dead skin cells on the outer part of the epidermis that performs an important function in the skin to keep things in and out. In other words, it seals off the inside of our bodies from the outside world and prevents moisture from escaping our bodies.




“Because our lips are so sensitive, it’s hard for them to retain moisture. Because of this natural sensitivity to dryness, factors that contribute to overall dry skin, such as cold weather, low humidity, dehydration, or poor skin care, tend to affect the lips first,” Collins explains.



There are also specific causes of dry lips, Collins says, including lip licking, frequent kissing, allergic reactions or sensitivities to oral care products or foods, saliva irritation, vitamin deficiencies (including iron, zinc, or vitamin B12), chronic mouth breathing due to nasal congestion, and in severe cases, certain autoimmune diseases, such as Sjögren’s syndrome.




“In addition, sun damage, both in the direct sense of sunburn, as well as longer-term sun-related changes that can lead to actinic cheilitis, is one of the most common causes of dry lips,” Collins adds. To complicate matters further, many lip balms and lip balms used to treat dry lips actually make the problem worse due to the irritating ingredients that are often added. 1



What is a cold sore?




A cold sore is the common name for a herpes outbreak on the lips. 2 “Cold sores are most commonly caused by HSV type 1, which is inactive in most adults,” explains Collins. Less commonly, she adds, oral cold sores can be caused by HSV type 2, the herpes virus more commonly associated with genital herpes infections.



The herpes virus lives dormant in parts of the nervous system called sensory ganglia and, when reactivated, crawls along the nervous system to the skin. 2 “This reactivation process can occur randomly or can be triggered by stress, UV radiation, hormones, menstruation, or trauma to the skin,” says Collins. Chapped lips vs. cold sores




While both chapped lips and cold sores can be irritating and painful, cold sores can cause more severe pain. “Perhaps the biggest difference between chapped lips and cold sores is the paroxysmal and deep nerve pain that cold sores can cause,” explains Dr. Rachael Cayce, board-certified dermatologist and member of the Physician Formula Alliance.



While cold sores are caused by a virus, they can also be caused by the same conditions that cause chapped lips. “Dry lips can lead to cold sores, as can anything that irritates the lips, such as cold weather, excessive sun exposure, and even dental and cosmetic procedures,” Cayce adds.




One distinguishing feature is that chapped lips may flake over in large areas, and the surrounding skin may appear red but not ulcerated, Collins says. “Cold sores often recur over and over in the same area of ​​the lip. A typical cold sore occurs on one side of the lip, along the junction between the pink part of the lip and the skin,” Collins explains. ” She adds that cold sores are painful and may cause symptoms such as pain, numbness, or tingling before an outbreak.



Treatment




One of the main differences between chapped lips and cold sores is how the two conditions are treated. While some chapped lips treatments may help relieve the side effects of cold sores, they don’t address the underlying problem. Here are some treatment options for both.



How to Treat Chapped Lips




“Treating chapped lips starts with figuring out the cause. However, if it is due to dry skin, a thick lip balm is the best treatment,” says Casey. Thick, moisturizing lip products can protect sensitive skin from dryness. If irritation occurs, Casey recommends avoiding irritants and even allergens that may be found in dental and cosmetic products. This may require trial and error on your part to determine the culprit.



But Collins emphasizes that there are many ways to combat dry lips, and lip balm is not the only option. Collins recommends the following:




Stay hydrated and nourished by drinking water and eating a balanced diet.



Lips often become dry overnight. Therefore, using a humidifier by your bed can treat nasal congestion and prevent mouth breathing.




When outdoors, apply SPF sunscreen to your lips every three hours to keep this sensitive area well cared for.



Proactively counteract your lips’ natural tendency to overdry by using skin care products that are truly hydrating and protective. Proactively moisturizing your lips is especially important during the winter months, in dry climates, or during activities that typically dry out your skin (hello, ski season!).




Avoid common triggers of irritant lip dermatitis, including lip products containing fragrance, lanolin, phenol, salicylic acid, or menthol. These balms can exacerbate irritation and lead to an endless cycle of peeling.



Treatment of Cold Sores




Dr. Collins says cold sores are best treated with prescription antiviral medications like valacyclovir. “Your doctor can give you a prescription to carry with you and take at the first sign of an outbreak. The faster you take the medication, the less likely it is that a cold sore will develop into a full-blown outbreak,” she adds. If you develop many cold sores each year, your doctor may recommend chronic suppressive antiviral therapy for prevention. Some people also use holistic treatments, such as L-lysine supplements, but it’s best to consult your doctor first.



Dr. Casey emphasizes that while cold sores can heal on their own, they can be extremely painful, which is why it’s not recommended. Instead, she recommends taking antiviral medication and avoiding contact or spreading the virus through kissing or sharing food or drinks.




Final Insights



Cracked lips and cold sores are no fun and can cause pain and irritation. Understanding your problem is crucial for the best treatment, as cold sores require medication to treat the viral nature of the disease. Chapped lips can be treated at home, but make sure you know the cause, find the right products, and don’t make the situation worse. If you’re not sure whether you have chapped lips or a cold sore, see your doctor.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
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