Chemical Peels

Chemical Peels

When it comes to chemical peels, I’m a big fan and I rely on semi-regular chemical peels to maintain my skin. My go-to is a Jessner – a combination of Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, and Resorcinol – to keep my breakouts and pigmentation under control and help with general aging concerns.

Because I have done regular peels, I know exactly what to expect and how my skin will respond. I can arrange my schedule accordingly to accommodate the pre-treatment requirements as well as the recovery and it always goes well. But I have also had a bad experience when a chemical peel was added to a facial without my knowledge or consent. It was considered light but the ingredient did not agree with me and I ended up with very unhappy rough, itchy, dry, red skin that took a few weeks to clear up.

I am not here to scare anyone away from chemical peels – as I said, I am a fan – but I firmly believe that any peel, regardless of concentration, should be managed as a medical procedure with proper consultation and prep in order to avoid anyone experiencing a reaction as I did. Chemical peels are to be respected and it’s best to understand what they are about before getting one done.

What is a chemical peel?

Chemical peels are exactly what they say they are – a chemical treatment that “peels” or, rather, stimulates a stronger shedding response in the skin than everyday skin care products. The ingredients that make up a peel determine how deep into the skin the treatment penetrates which then affects the intensity of shedding as well as the length of recovery or downtime. Chemical peels help treat a variety of concerns – pigmentation due to sun damage, acne and congestion, fine lines and wrinkles, texture and scarring – and there are a lot of options to choose from depending on what skin concern is being targeted.

Peels are generally categorized as light (stimulating the very top layer of the skin only and are considered superficial. Think ‘lighten, tighten, brighten’), medium (penetrates deeper into the epidermis to treat congestion and pigmentation), and deep which claim to penetrate to the dermis and are for severe cases of sun damage, pigmentation, and wrinkles.

glycolic acid

What can you expect?

Typically, regarding a mild or medium peel, you can assume visible dryness, obvious shedding, dullness, and this can go on for several days. If full-face makeup is part of your daily routine, it likely won’t sit on your skin smoothly. What can also happen is a purge. If you are prone to breakouts, a chemical peel can exacerbate this and encourage MORE blemishes. Pigmentation can start to look darker and in some cases, I have seen pigmentation appear where it wasn’t visible before. Feedback to clinics from patients can often be, “you made my skin worse”.

It is true that for 1 to 3 weeks (possibly longer for a deep peel), you aren’t going to like your skin very much and this is a terrible feeling, but it is temporary. Remember that the peeling, the purging, the pigmentation coming to the surface are all good things! This is all exactly what a chemical peel is supposed to do and exactly what needs to happen. But keep in mind that it is very common to require more than one peel treatment to see dynamic results – I call it peel, purge, perfect – since it can take a few cycles to get pigmentation and deep congestion up and out.

My personal peel response from my go-to medium-depth peel is always 3-5 days of dry (and I mean DRY), flaky skin followed by a week or more of breakouts. After that, The Glow. I love it. But I would be lying if I didn’t admit that literally every time I do a peel I get nervous that my skin won’t recover. It always does.

Remember that the damage we are trying to correct didn’t happen overnight and there is no quick fix; it is rarely a case of one-and-done. Wear your sunscreen, avoid over-scrubbing and too many irritating ingredients in skin care. Chemical peels are a fantastic boost to your daily efforts and there is an option for just about everyone.

Trust the process.

salicylic acid structure

Regulations for chemical peels

There are also different regulations regarding peels depending on the ingredients. Some require no medical supervision – think enzyme peels – while others are considered prescription and must be applied by a physician. My general advice is to have a peel treatment done at a medical facility regardless, especially if it is your first experience.

So, why do they need to be respected? These are concentrated solutions of ingredients designed to aggravate and inflame your skin and some treatments often contain ingredients you likely haven’t come across in your daily skin care. Even if you have – perhaps Glycolic, Lactic, or Salicylic Acids – it would be in vastly lower percentages and, therefore, not as aggressive.

I compare it to lifting weights – you can pick up a 5lb dumbbell and do some lifts and it won’t be too challenging. Now, pick up the 100lb weight and do the same exercises. Your body is going to have something to say about the increase in weight. You can look at chemical peels the same way.

In preparation for a chemical peel, if possible, I recommend a test patch at least 24 hours before your treatment – a small area along your jawline where the peel is applied; this will help rule out any possibility of reaction. A test patch won’t always be an option but it is good practice to inquire. Discontinue active ingredients such as Retinol, Glycolic or Lactic Acids, and scrubs 3-5 days before your appointment. Stay out of the sun as much as possible, hydrate, and avoid any hair removal – waxing, depilatories, or shaving. Post-treatment instructions are similar – no active skincare, avoid scrubs and sun exposure, wear sunscreen – but specific care instructions should be provided by your technician.

Upon application of mild and medium peels, patients can experience sensations from a light tingle to spicy heat while deep peels typically require numbing cream due to the aggressive depth of penetration.

Now, a lot of what I have laid out so far is not breaking new ground. In fact, information on peels can be found simply by Googling and a lot of clinic websites detail their chemical peel options well. What I have found to be lacking, however, is information on the recovery; that in-between time from getting the treatment done to enjoying the results.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

Related Articles

Ad Blocker Detected