Cholesterol in skin care
Cholesterol is one of the many types of lipids that make up the skin barrier. (4)
In addition to ceramides and free fatty acids like linoleic and linolenic acids, cholesterol is essential for a healthy skin barrier and must be in barrier repair moisturizers for them to be effective.
Cholesterol lowering drugs like statins can hurt the skin barrier by decreasing cholesterol levels. Repairing the skin barrier is essential to keeping moisture on the skin (preventing trans-epidermal water loss), as well as keeping various bacteria(11) and allergens and irritants out of the skin.
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What is cholesterol?
Cholesterol is a naturally occurring carbon rich lipid found in animal cells and blood. In terms of skin care, its primary function is as a core component of the skin barrier.
Your cell membranes are mostly composed of various lipids; depending on your skin type, between one quarter and one half are cholesterol. (1,6)
The outermost layer of your skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is composed of various types of lipids including cholesterol that must be present in specific balances to keep it healthy. (2)
Studies have found that formation of the skin barrier would be impossible without cholesterol. (2)
For skin care formulations, it often serves as an emulsifier because it does not combine with water. (10)
Cholesterol is not a saturated or unsaturated fat; it is a different form of lipid entirely.
Natural cholesterol is derived from animals, it is does not occur in plant life.
Benefits in skin care
Products containing cholesterol can result in a rich, dewy feel on the skin that indicates significant barrier hydration.
When used alongside ceramides and free fatty acids such as linoleic, linolenic, oleic, or others, cholesterol repairs skin barriers damaged by trans-epidermal water loss or other causes of dryness.
A healthy skin barrier is better at keeping out allergens. irritants, and acne-causing and other bacteria.
Well hydrated skin is less likely to absorb water soluble ingredients like sugars (which cause glycation that leads to wrinkles).
The best moisturizers for dry skin must contain cholesterol or the vegan equivalent beta sitosterol.
Side-effects
The primary concern associated with using cholesterol in skin care products is that altering your skin’s lipid proportions from the necessary ratio of 1:1:1 fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides.
Products that contain just cholesterol without ceramides or free fatty acids are not recommended for eczematic or otherwise impaired skin barriers because they injure the skin barrier when the artio is off. (11)
As long as you stay mindful of using all three of the main lipid groups needed for barrier function, there are no real concerns associated with using cholesterol in skin care. How to know if a moisturizer has the correct ratio? It requires a cross polarized microscope to see if a maltese cross pattern is present.
Is it safe?
Cholesterol is a safe addition to many types of moisturizers and other types of skin care products.
It does not raise your serum cholesterol levels when used topically so it is safe to use even if you have high cholesterol.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel conducted a study on the safety of cholesterol in cosmetics, and deems it safe for use. The only risk associated with using cholesterol in skin care products is that it might throw off the composition ratio of your skin’s lipid matrix when not used in combination with ceramides and free fatty acids. (10)
The EWG rates it as a 1 (safe).
Be sure your barrier repair moisturizers contain all three: ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol, for maximum effectiveness.
Is it a clean ingredient?
Cholesterol is animal derived so is not considered clean in many of the clean standards,
Beta sitosterol can be used as a substitute for cholesterol if you want a clean form.
Cholesterol in skin creams for dry skin
If you have a damaged skin barrier as a result of dry skin concerns, cholesterol is a crucial component of moisturizers designed for dryness and skin barrier repair.
People with severe eczema should use moisturizers with an equal ratio of ceramides and fatty acids than cholesterol.
If you have dry skin, make sure your moisturizers include all three of the above mentioned types of lipids that are essential for lasting hydration.
Look for cholesterol or beta sitosterol on the product labels.
Barrier repair moisturizers
Cholesterol is one of the three primary lipid components of the skin barrier, so it is essential in barrier repair moisturizers.
That being said, cholesterol alone is not suitable for repairing the skin barrier. It has to be used in combination with ceramides and free fatty acids.
Occlusive ingredients are also commonly found in barrier repair moisturizers because they actively prevent water loss from the skin while cholesterol and other lipids hydrate it.
Oils and cholesterol are an example of occlusive ingredients.
Isolated use of either fatty acids, ceramides, or cholesterol can throw off your skin’s lipid proportions; this itself can result in damage to the skin barrier. (11)
What is xanthelasma?
Including cholesterol in your skin care regimen does not increase the chance of developing xanthelasma.
Xanthelasma is a skin condition that presents as deposits of yellowish cholesterol patches just beneath the surface of the skin. (9)
Xanthelasma can gain severity over time, but can be treated with cryotherapies, various lasers, and basic surgical removal.
Based on your skin tone, the scars that would be caused by removing xanthelasma can be more noticeable than the condition itself.
The condition is medically harmless, and does not indicate any further health risks. If you have or think you might be developing xanthelasma, talk to your dermatologist about what treatment strategies are best for you.
Vegan cholesterol options
Plants do not produce cholesterol, so instead synthetic cholesterol is often used in barrier repair moisturizers.
Synthetic cholesterol is vegan. Beta-sitosterol. is an example of a vega form of cholsterol in skin care. Some products contain both cholesterol and beta-sitosterol.
If you want to make sure your barrier repair moisturizer is vegan, make sure it is listed to contain beta-sitosterol in place of cholesterol.
Products
Tons of products contain cholesterol. You can check out our full collection with this link!
Make sure to find your Baumann Skin Type to get only the best products for your skin.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.