Clean Skin Care and Clean Beauty

Clean Skin Care and Clean Beauty- Are clean products better?

There are many clean beauty brands, but what exactly does “clean” mean in terms of beauty products and skin care? Are clean skin care products better?

This blog will discuss what clean skin care means, nontoxic skin care products, various clean beauty standards, and if clean skin care is worth the extra expense.

Basically- clean products are really not any better, in fact some are worse because they are based more on marketing than efficacy. But you cannot make a sweeping statement about all clean beauty products because there is so much discrepancy about what clean means.

This blog will also address who should use these products, what health risks cosmetic ingredients may have, and the issues that need to be considered when trying to decide if a brand shares your values and ethics.

What does clean skincare mean?

Products that are considered clean skincare do not have any ingredients in them that cause harm to the person using the skin care product.

Reputable and established companies do not use ingredients known to be harmful, so in many ways this is a marketing term and is based on fear and misunderstanding.

With that said- there are ingredients that are questionable that you need to know about.

It can be difficult to tell the difference between science-based information and marketing claims.

Many companies and organizations have their own standards for what they consider to be clean beauty, making it hard to determine a universal definition.

California’s Proposition 65 and Hawaii’s recent ban on certain sunscreen ingredients illustrate the varying regulations that exist.

The Environmental Working Group rates the safety of ingredients based on a number of factors, while the Cosmetic Ingredient Review evaluates ingredients for safety and contact dermatitis risk.

Despite these efforts, there is still much debate over what constitutes “clean beauty.”

Do dermatologists recommend clean skin care?

Dermatologists do not use the term clean beauty because it is not a set scientific definition.

But yes- dermatologists recommend safe skin care that does not cause health risks.

The term “clean beauty” has a huge marketing buzz word and the true meaning is unclear.

In Jan 2023, The New York Times said that 1/3 of beauty products are now labeled as clean. (2) They quoted many sources that said the term is confusing and “doesn’t really mean anything.”

I think the subject of safe skin care is an important one. We need a standardized definition for safe skin care that us used consistently and used properly- however this requires an intimate knowledge of cosmetic chemistry. I propose using the terms hazardous and safe, rather than clean and unclean, or toxin and nontoxic.

Later in this blog I will discuss how I analyze various ingredients and their safety. To find my review on ingredients labelled as hazardous, toxic or dangerous., visit this blog that is coming soon.

Keep reading to learn how 2 safe ingredients can interact to form a toxic one. This is why the order of skin care products in your routine matters.

Let me help you find a safe skin care products and tell you how to combine them in a safe routine for your Baumann Skin Type (There are 16!)

Once you take the quiz, you will receive a list of products right for you for each regimen step.

You can choose products based on what is important to you such as clean, environmentally friendly, cruelty free, recycled packaging, medical grade, natural, and organic.

Take the Quiz

Who should use clean skin care?

There are real health risks associated with skincare ingredients, especially when you are planning to conceive, are pregnant, breastfeeding, very allergic, or susceptible to skin inflammation.

Although everyone should strive to use the healthiest products, clean skin care is most important in 3 main situations: babies / children, pregnancy, and when trying to get pregnant.

Newborns, babies and small children

Newborns, babies, and small children have an increased risk of bad effects from skin care products because they have a much higher ratio of skin surface area to body mass as compared to adults. This means they absorbed more ingredients compared to their body mass than adults.

Pregnancy and breast feeding

Many ingredients in skin care absorb and can pass into your baby’s body. The ingredient with the highest concern are retinoids, parabens, 5- alpha reductase inhibitors, and ingredients that affect hormones.

Planning to conceive

Both men and women should consider what they are putting on their body in the 3 months prior to trying to conceive a baby. There are ingredients that can affect hormones and decrease fertility.

Health risks associated with “non-clean” beauty products

Hazardous beauty products are products with ingredients that have deleterious effects on health. and have real evidence of issues.

Most of the fears about ingredients causing health risks have no evidence to back up these fears. But these ingredients end up on “banned ingredient” lists anyway because of brand marketing or public-relations concerns. After all – there are many new clean beauty products in 2023 because they obviously sell well and appeal to consumers.

I divide the hazardous effects of skin care into these categories:

allergenicity (allergy, contact dermatitis)

carcinogenicity (cancer)

hepatotoxicity (liver problems)

hormone imbalance (usually estrogen effects)

immunotoxicity (effects on immune system)

irritation (irritant dermatitis)

nephrotoxicity (kidney problems)

neurotoxicity (nerve damage)

reproductive toxicity (decreased sperm counts, decreased conception)

Nontoxic skin care

When you want to shop for toxin-free skin care- you are really looking for safe skin care products.

“Nontoxic skin care” only applies to natural products and the term does not apply to chemicals ingredients made in the lab.

Terms to know:

Toxins are natural poisons that come from plants, insects and other living species

Poisons are substances capable of causing illness or death when you are exposed to sufficient quantities

Hazardous chemicals cause adverse health effects such as rashes, cancer, and hormonal changes.

Although no one uses the term- it is correct call ingredients in skin care that are harmful ‘hazardous ingredients” rather than toxins.

Both natural and chemical ingredients can adversely affect your skin health- especially if you use:

hazardous ingredients

the wrong products for your skin type

products in your skin care routine that should not be used together

skin care products incorrectly

Clean Skin Care Routines

There are some issues you need to think about when looking for the healthiest skin care products.

Not only do the ingredients need t be safe, but they need to be combined with other ingredients properly.

Then you need to layer them correctly in your skin care routine.

Safe ingredients can combine together to form a hazardous ingredient!

Even clean skin care products can be combined together in a way that causes health risks.

So- the step order of your skin care routine matters.

We can help you build your skin care routine.

Take the Quiz

Clean Beauty Standards Vary

There are different seals and certifications to help you know if a beauty product is clean. Stores, brands and even Allure magazine have their own definitions of what clean means.

The definition of clean varies from store to store; brand to brand; and there is no agreed upon definition of clean beauty.(1)

What Sephora calls clean skin care is not the same as what many skin care brands and stores call clean skin care.

Since no one seems to agree on the definition of clean, I reviewed all of the data and beauty standards myself and formed my own opinion as a dermatologist. (1)

My process:

I reviewed the clean standards of the biggest stores such as Sephora, Ulta, Neiman Marcus, Walgreens/ Boots, Target and Whole Foods.

I reviewed the top brands standards for clean beauty when possible (Not all will share this information).

I made a huge spreadsheet of ingredients and which were banned by which stores

I consulted with The Good Face Project and used their software

I made lists of the “detrimental effects” of each ingredient and read the studies, data and evidence myself. (ADD LINK)

Looked up ingredient on the Environmental Working group (EWG.org) site and read all of their comments and references

Read any publications by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board)

Spoke to may cosmetic chemists from various brands including Loreal, Skinceuticals and Burt’s Bees

Discussed with naturopathic doctors and herbalists who understand natural ingredient sourcing

Lectured about it to dermatologists and discussed with dermatologists,

I feel confident that I now have a very good understanding of which ingredients are toxic and which are safe.

You can read my finding for each ingredient in a different blog.

Click here for a list of ingredients and their hazards.

Are natural products always safer than synthetic ones?

Chemicals can come from plants, animals or can be made in the lab (synthetic).

It is important to note that natural products are not necessarily safer than synthetic ones. Natural ingredients can be toxic.

For example, Cocamide DEA, an ethanolamine derived from coconut, is often found in “natural” skincare products but can still form carcinogenic nitrosamines.

It is also essential to ensure that all products used in a skincare routine are compatible with one another.

In conclusion, there is still much debate and disparity surrounding what defines clean beauty, and as a dermatologist, I will continue to address these issues in my cosmeceutical critique columns

How do I know if a beauty company’s clean standards align with my own values and beliefs?

The clean seal only represents if the ingredients in the product are hazardous or safe. This does not always mean that the company aligns with all of your values.

There are other things to consider when choosing products such as:

cruelty free (no animal testing)

Does the company give back and support charities?

free of animal derived ingredients

free trade

How does the company handle their own garbage and waste?

ingredient sustainably sources

marine safe

medical grade ingredients

natural ingredients

organic

packaging: recycled, biodegradable, or made from recycled products

safe for environment

vegan

water type used in the products

Do clean beauty products really work as well as their “non-clean” products?

How well clean products work depends upon many factors such as the ingredient type, your skin type, how you layer the products and what other products are in your skin care routine.

It is confusing!

Let us guide you.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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