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Cutaneous lysate and Processed Skin Cell Proteins in Neocutis Skin Care
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Cutaneous lysate and Processed Skin Cell Proteins in Neocutis Skin Care

20 January 2025


Cutaneous lysate and Processed Skin Cell Proteins in Neocutis Skin Care




Processed Skin Cell Proteins (PSPs), also known as cutaneous lysate, changed the anti-aging skincare industry, offering science-based skin rejuvenation benefits. As the cornerstone of the luxury growth factor skincare brand Neocutis, PSPs harness the regenerative power of human fibroblasts to restore collagen, enhance skin hydration, and promote a youthful complexion. Neocutis products, enriched with these potent bioactive molecules derived from fibroblast lysates, deliver antiaging skin benefits. Along with SkinMedica TNS, the Neocutis PSP containing growth factor products have added a new category of products to the antiaging skincare armamentarium.



Are these PSP containing products good for your skin? Take our dermatologist-developed skin type quiz to find out which of the 16 skin types you are and if you should use products with cutaneous lysate in them.




Neocutis’ anti-aging products use cutaneous lysate derived from cultured human fibroblasts



Cutaneous lysate is rich in essential growth factors and cytokines.




PSPs are gentle on the skin and good for sensitive skin types



Know your Baumann Skin Type before you buy any anti-aging products




Growth Factors from Cutaneous Lysate



This blog focuses on the cutaneous lysate found in Neocutis products. Technically a cutaneous lysate can be any substance that is extracted from cells. But this appears on the label of Neocutis antiaging serums and this company extracts the proteins from fibroblasts so this blog is based on that technology.




What are PSPs ?



Processed Skin Cell Proteins (PSPs), known as cutaneous lysate, are a unique blend of growth factors and cytokines derived from cultured human fibroblasts. The original cell cultures were made by taking a human skin biopsy and cultivating it in a laboratory environment. This resulted in the proliferation of fibroblasts, which are then processed to extract the valuable proteins they produce. These proteins are crucial for skin regeneration and repair, mimicking the natural biological processes involved in wound healing and skin rejuvenation.




There is a rumor that the skin biopsy used for cultivating these fibroblasts came from the foreskin of the CEO’s child, but this claim remains unverified. Regardless of the biopsy’s origin, the scientific process ensures the fibroblasts proliferate and produce the essential proteins that form the basis of PSPs.



On skin care product labels, these fibroblast derived growth factors are called “cutaneous lysate.”




Growth Factors are in Neocutis Products



Based on the detailed examination of the patent US9278122B2, the growth factors and cytokines present in the cutaneous lysate (PSPs) used in Neocutis products are as follows:




Transforming Growth Factor-beta (TGF-β)



Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF)




Platelet-Derived Growth Factor (PDGF)



Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF)




Interleukin-6 (IL-6)



Interleukin-8 (IL-8)




Interleukin-10 (IL-10)



Keratinocyte Growth Factor-1 and -2 (KGF-1, KGF-2)




Benefits



The primary benefit of PSPs lies in their ability to harness the natural regenerative properties of growth factors and cytokines. These bioactive molecules play a pivotal role in skin health by promoting collagen synthesis, enhancing the production of hyaluronic acid, and stimulating the formation of glycosaminoglycans. Here’s a deeper look into these benefits:




Collagen Restoration : Collagen is a critical protein that maintains the skin’s structural integrity and firmness. PSPs help restore collagen levels in the skin, which naturally deplete with age, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin.



Hyaluronic Acid Production : Hyaluronic acid is essential for skin hydration. It attracts and retains moisture, providing a plump and hydrated appearance. PSPs stimulate the skin to produce more hyaluronic acid, combating dryness and promoting a smoother texture.




Glycosaminoglycan Formation : These molecules, including hyaluronic acid, are vital for maintaining skin elasticity and hydration. PSPs encourage their production, contributing to overall skin health and resilience.



The combination of these effects leads to the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, improvement in skin texture, and an overall rejuvenated appearance.




Side Effects and Safety



PSPs are generally considered safe with no known significant side effects. Here are some key points regarding their safety:




No Known Side Effects : Clinical studies and user reports have not indicated any major side effects associated with PSPs. Users typically tolerate these products well, experiencing minimal to no irritation.


Concerns About Growth Factors : There have been concerns regarding the potential for growth factors to stimulate the growth of skin cancers. However, no cases of skin cancer have been reported in association with PSP use over more than eight years on the market. The data suggests that PSPs are safe for long-term use.

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has evaluated ‘cutaneous lysate” and provided favorable safety scores, indicating a low risk for adverse effects. The EWG score for products containing PSPs is generally a 1. However, there are many types of cutaneous lysate so it is not technically correct to give the same safety rated to all types.

Research Studies on Neocutis’ Cutaneous Lysate

Several research studies have explored the efficacy of PSPs in skin rejuvenation. Here are some notable studies and their findings:

Initial Case Report: A case report by Baumann et al. (2007) described the effects of Bio-restorative Skin Cream, a PSP product, on two participants with severe phototoxicity following 5-aminolevulinic acid (5-ALA) photodynamic therapy. The application of the cream twice daily for 3 to 7 days helped restore the skin to its normal condition, indicating PSPs’ potential in healing and repair (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology).

Randomized, Double-Blind, Split-Face Study: A study by Gold et al. (2007) involved 20 women with facial wrinkling in the lateral canthal area. Participants applied Bio-restorative Skin Cream or a placebo cream twice daily for two months. The results showed significant improvement in skin roughness parameters with the PSP cream compared to the placebo. However, the clinical assessment of wrinkles did not show a significant difference between the two sides. Another publication based on this study found that periorbital and perioral wrinkles improved significantly at day 30 and day 60 (Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy).

Prospective Study on Fine Wrinkles: In a single-center prospective study, Fitzpatrick et al. (2009) evaluated the effects of Bio-restorative Skin Cream on 12 women over six months. Results indicated a 33% reduction in periorbital wrinkles and a 25% reduction in perioral wrinkles. Participants also reported improvements in facial lines, skin texture, and hydration (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology).

Lumiere® Bio-restorative Eye Cream Study: A multicenter, open-label prospective study by Fitzpatrick et al. (2009) on 40 women examined the effects of Lumiere® Bio-restorative Eye Cream. After six weeks of twice-daily application, significant improvements were observed in skin texture, sagging, dark circles, and periorbital wrinkles. Participants also reported enhanced skin quality and appearance (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology).

These studies collectively support the efficacy of PSPs in improving various signs of skin aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, texture, and hydration.

Conclusion

Processed Skin Cell Proteins (PSPs) in Neocutis products represent a cutting-edge approach to skin rejuvenation. Derived from cultured human fibroblasts, PSPs harness the power of growth factors and cytokines to restore collagen, promote hyaluronic acid production, and enhance skin health. With a strong safety profile and supported by numerous research studies, PSPs offer a promising solution for those seeking to combat the signs of aging and achieve healthier, more youthful skin.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
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