Dermatologist Debunks: 4 Biggest Acne Myths You Should Stop Believing

Ask the Dermatologist: 4 Lies You’ve Been Told About Acne

If you struggle with acne, chances are you’ve scoured the internet trying to find the latest tips or tricks to get clear skin. Sometimes, the advice can be useless, like slathering toothpaste across your blemishes or spraying saltwater on your face. And with so many different acne products on the market, it can be difficult to figure out what’s legit and what’s not.

With the help of Dr. Anthony Nuara, MD PhD FAAD, we’re going to dispel some myths about acne treatments and causes and share which products actually help reduce and prevent acne breakouts.

What Causes Acne?

Acne is multifactorial, which means it isn’t caused by just one thing. What we know for sure is that an acne blemish occurs when a pore becomes clogged with sebum (oil) and dead skin cells. This may appear as a blackhead or whitehead. When the oil or dead skin cells become inflamed or infected with bacteria like cutibacterium acnes, a raised pimple may appear.

But what causes this excess oil, clogging, and inflammatory response in people who struggle with acne regularly? Here’s what the science says:

Genetics: In a 2021 systematic review and meta-analysis,1 researchers found 60 genes associated with acne predisposition. So, if you have a family history of acne, you may likely struggle with acne too.

Hormones: There’s a reason why acne is typically associated with teenagers: hormones. Hormonal fluctuations during puberty can result in increased sebum production and acne lesions, but fluctuations can also occur throughout adulthood. Women may suffer from acne at different points of their menstrual cycle or during menopause. Men can struggle with acne if they have high levels of testosterone or are on hormonal therapy.

Medications: Acne can also be a side effect of different medications, such as corticosteroids, lithium, vitamin B12, thyroid hormones, and antibiotics.2

Lifestyle: This is a tricky one. While stress, poor diet, and inadequate sleep do not necessarily cause acne, they can trigger breakouts for those who are genetically predisposed.

Now that you’ve got a basic idea of what might be causing your acne, it’s time to correct some misconceptions. Here are four of the top acne myths debunked.

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Myth #1: Drinking Water Will Clear Your Breakouts

Water is undoubtedly good for you and your skin, but it has no real therapeutic role other than helping you wash your face. While studies show that sufficient water intake positively impacts skin by increasing elasticity (which can help slow signs of aging), there is not enough evidence to determine how it impacts acne blemishes.3

Myth #2: Only Teenagers Get Acne

I wish this was true. Adults often get acne, particularly middle-aged women and those approaching menopause due to the drastic hormonal fluctuations that occur during this time. Adult men and women who choose to undergo hormone replacement therapy or have high testosterone may also suffer breakouts.

Myth #3: Eating Junk Food is the Cause of Your Acne

There is a little truth to this. A diet high in carbohydrates4 and refined sugar have been shown to exacerbate acne.5 These types of foods increase your serum triglycerides and increase sebum production, which can lead to clogged pores. Whey protein is also known to worsen acne in young adults.6

Myth #4: Having Acne Means Your Face Should Be Cleaned More Often

While hygiene is important to maintaining healthy skin, you can only scrub away so much. In fact, washing too often or scrubbing too vigorously may irritate skin and make acne even worse. Gentle cleansers are preferred, but if you opt for one containing alpha and beta hydroxy acids to unclog pores, be sure to use them sparingly as they can irritate your skin.

Best Products to Help with Acne Breakouts

Two powerful ingredients you should add to your skincare regimen are niacinamide and azelaic acid. Gentle enough to use together, these two multitasking ingredients can help clear up breakouts and prevent them altogether. Here’s how they compare:

Foundation Skincare’s Niacinamide Lotion 10%: Formulated with a hydrating hyaluronic acid base, this product helps to curb sebum production to control and prevent acne while soothing the inflammation and irritation associated with breakouts. Niacinamide can also build immunity in the skin against infections, fade acne scars, and assist in DNA repair.

Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid 14% Cream: This daily essential cream contains a potent medical-grade concentration of azelaic acid, which is a beneficial yeast with antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. It clears acne-causing bacteria from the skin, eases inflammation, and fades hyperpigmentation caused by acne scarring. Azelaic acid is also suitable for hormonal acne because it blocks increased oil production caused by elevated testosterone.

Women with hormonal breakouts or anyone with acne that is causing pitted scarring should consider consulting a board-certified dermatologist for more advice and a suitable treatment plan.

Navigating the landscape of acne treatments can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be. The next time someone shares a weird new trick with you, make sure to ask for the evidence supporting their claims. There are countless myths and misconceptions surrounding what causes acne and how to treat it, but once you start using the right products, the path to the clear skin, and your skin itself, becomes clear.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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