Ask the Dermatologist: 4 Lies You’ve Been Told About Acne
If you struggle with acne, chances are you’ve scoured the internet trying to find the latest tips or tricks to get clear skin. Sometimes, the advice can be useless, like slathering toothpaste across your blemishes or spraying saltwater on your face. And with so many different acne products on the market, it can be difficult to figure out what’s legit and what’s not.
With the help of Dr. Anthony Nuara, MD PhD FAAD, we’re going to dispel some myths about acne treatments and causes and share which products actually help reduce and prevent acne breakouts.
What Causes Acne?
Acne is multifactorial, which means it isn’t caused by just one thing. What we know for sure is that an acne blemish occurs when a pore becomes clogged with sebum (oil) and dead skin cells. This may appear as a blackhead or whitehead. When the oil or dead skin cells become inflamed or infected with bacteria like cutibacterium acnes, a raised pimple may appear.
But what causes this excess oil, clogging, and inflammatory response in people who struggle with acne regularly? Here’s what the science says:
Genetics: In a 2021 systematic review and meta-analysis,1 researchers found 60 genes associated with acne predisposition. So, if you have a family history of acne, you may likely struggle with acne too.
Hormones: There’s a reason why acne is typically associated with teenagers: hormones. Hormonal fluctuations during puberty can result in increased sebum production and acne lesions, but fluctuations can also occur throughout adulthood. Women may suffer from acne at different points of their menstrual cycle or during menopause. Men can struggle with acne if they have high levels of testosterone or are on hormonal therapy.
Medications: Acne can also be a side effect of different medications, such as corticosteroids, lithium, vitamin B12, thyroid hormones, and antibiotics.2
Lifestyle: This is a tricky one. While stress, poor diet, and inadequate sleep do not necessarily cause acne, they can trigger breakouts for those who are genetically predisposed.
Now that you’ve got a basic idea of what might be causing your acne, it’s time to correct some misconceptions. Here are four of the top acne myths debunked.
Azelaic Acid 14% Cream
Azelaic Acid 14% Cream
• Reduces acne & rosacea
• Brightens skin, fades brown spots
• Unclogs pores, improves texture
Regular price$45
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Myth #1: Drinking Water Will Clear Your Breakouts
Water is undoubtedly good for you and your skin, but it has no real therapeutic role other than helping you wash your face. While studies show that sufficient water intake positively impacts skin by increasing elasticity (which can help slow signs of aging), there is not enough evidence to determine how it impacts acne blemishes.3
Myth #2: Only Teenagers Get Acne
I wish this was true. Adults often get acne, particularly middle-aged women and those approaching menopause due to the drastic hormonal fluctuations that occur during this time. Adult men and women who choose to undergo hormone replacement therapy or have high testosterone may also suffer breakouts.
Myth #3: Eating Junk Food is the Cause of Your Acne
There is a little truth to this. A diet high in carbohydrates4 and refined sugar have been shown to exacerbate acne.5 These types of foods increase your serum triglycerides and increase sebum production, which can lead to clogged pores. Whey protein is also known to worsen acne in young adults.6
Myth #4: Having Acne Means Your Face Should Be Cleaned More Often
While hygiene is important to maintaining healthy skin, you can only scrub away so much. In fact, washing too often or scrubbing too vigorously may irritate skin and make acne even worse. Gentle cleansers are preferred, but if you opt for one containing alpha and beta hydroxy acids to unclog pores, be sure to use them sparingly as they can irritate your skin.
Best Products to Help with Acne Breakouts
Two powerful ingredients you should add to your skincare regimen are niacinamide and azelaic acid. Gentle enough to use together, these two multitasking ingredients can help clear up breakouts and prevent them altogether. Here’s how they compare:
Foundation Skincare’s Niacinamide Lotion 10%: Formulated with a hydrating hyaluronic acid base, this product helps to curb sebum production to control and prevent acne while soothing the inflammation and irritation associated with breakouts. Niacinamide can also build immunity in the skin against infections, fade acne scars, and assist in DNA repair.
Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid 14% Cream: This daily essential cream contains a potent medical-grade concentration of azelaic acid, which is a beneficial yeast with antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. It clears acne-causing bacteria from the skin, eases inflammation, and fades hyperpigmentation caused by acne scarring. Azelaic acid is also suitable for hormonal acne because it blocks increased oil production caused by elevated testosterone.
Women with hormonal breakouts or anyone with acne that is causing pitted scarring should consider consulting a board-certified dermatologist for more advice and a suitable treatment plan.
Navigating the landscape of acne treatments can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be. The next time someone shares a weird new trick with you, make sure to ask for the evidence supporting their claims. There are countless myths and misconceptions surrounding what causes acne and how to treat it, but once you start using the right products, the path to the clear skin, and your skin itself, becomes clear.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
