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Dermatologist explains 8 ways to treat sun-damaged skin
Beauty

Dermatologist explains 8 ways to treat sun-damaged skin

1 October 2024


In case you missed it, the sun’s UV rays are the most common cause of premature skin aging, or more commonly, sun damage. It’s one of the most difficult skin conditions to treat.




Not only are UV rays so harmful, but sun damage is often difficult to treat—wrinkles, dark spots, sagging skin, and loss of elasticity are all signs of serious sun damage to your face.



What is sun damage? “Sun damage occurs when the skin is overexposed to the sun’s UV rays,” explains Dr. Michelle Green, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in New York City.




“UV rays can penetrate the deepest layers of the skin, causing changes to DNA at the cellular level.” Green says UV rays can negatively impact the skin’s aging process and, in some cases, can lead to cancer for a variety of reasons. : From the surface of the skin to deep within the skin.



01. Apply vitamin C daily. “Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps fight the formation of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles caused by UV exposure,” explains Green, referring to L-ascorbic acid, the active form of vitamin C. The regenerative properties help speed up the production of collagen and elastin in the skin. As you know, collagen and elastin are largely responsible for keeping your skin looking healthy and youthful. By using vitamin C, you can rejuvenate your complexion and slowly reverse the effects of sun damage, Green says. 02. Don’t be afraid of retinol. Another ingredient that works well for sun-damaged skin? Retinol. “Topical retinoids are considered the gold standard in anti-aging skin care, second only to sunscreen,” says Dr. Adeline Kikam, board-certified dermatologist and founder of @brownkinder. “Topical retinoids are commonly used in skin care to restructure sun-damaged skin, promote skin cell turnover, and combat blemishes and uneven skin tone,” Kikam says.




Skin loses out due to UV radiation-induced degradation. “Prescription retinoids prescribed by dermatologists tend to be more effective and work faster than over-the-counter retinoids, which tend to be less effective and work slower,” she adds.



“However, over-the-counter retinols are great for people with sensitive skin, as prescription retinols can cause more irritation.”




03. Consider adding a chemical peel to your routine. If the term “chemical peel” in relation to your face scares you, we can ease your fears. Chemical acids can actually work wonders for your skin. According to Hope Mitchell, MD, you should add an acid solution (also known as a chemical peel) to your skin care routine, and whether you choose mandelic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or triclosan acetic acid, both can help reverse sun damage. “Chemical peels improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin by using a chemical solution to speed up the skin resurfacing process,” she explains. “Exfoliation can make the new skin underneath appear smoother, reduce dullness, reduce hyperpigmentation, and even reduce fine lines and precancerous lesions. Since you’ll definitely want to add a chemical peel to your routine, keep this in mind when you’re getting one.” While they’re gentle enough to use alone, mixing different chemical peels is generally not a good idea. So if you include more than one in your routine, make sure you use one in the morning and one at night. Also, as Kikam reminds us, it’s always a good idea to do a patch test before applying any product to your entire face.



04. Book an in-office chemical peel. Since there are so many exfoliating acids on the market, and many at-home peels aren’t nearly as strong or effective as in-office peels, Mitchell recommends booking an appointment for a chemical peel if you have visible signs of sun damage.




In fact, think of a peel as an acidic at-home product to the tenth power. That’s because, as Mitchell points out, dermatologists can tailor a peel to a patient’s specific needs, whether that’s suntans, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, or wrinkles.



“This ability makes chemical peels one of the best aesthetic services a skin clinic offers—they achieve the best results,” she says.




05. Consider Dermaplaning: Another treatment that can be performed at home and in the office is dermaplaning. While at-home dermaplaning is very gentle and its primary goal is to improve skin texture by removing hair, in-office dermaplaning goes a step further. That’s because, in practice, dermaplaning is often combined with chemical peel treatments, says aesthetician Edyta Jarosz. “Dermaplaning helps replace sun-damaged skin with new skin growth that better absorbs products for a healthier, more vibrant appearance,” she explains. “When you combine dermaplaning with chemical peels, your results will be improved because your skin will tolerate the peel treatment better.”



06. Book a microdermabrasion appointment (after the summer). Generally speaking, summer is the best time to treat sunburn. After all, this is when most people get out and enjoy nature and all it has to offer. The problem is that in-office chemical peels and other skin-resurfacing treatments, such as microdermabrasion, can make the skin sensitive to the sun and therefore more susceptible to damage. Therefore, Yaros recommends continuing these treatments into the fall. “In the fall, chemical peels and Diamond Glow facials can be a great way to restore and repair summer-damaged skin,” she says, noting that the DiamondGlow facial is a refreshing, rejuvenating facial. “It exfoliates the skin’s surface, removes impurities from the pores, and delivers a targeted serum to the skin. The newest option is the TNS Advanced+Serum, which targets rough wrinkles, fine lines, and sagging skin to improve skin tone and texture.” Therefore, she says it’s an excellent option for reversing the effects of sun damage.




07. Book an Appointment for Radiofrequency Microneedling Another practical option is radiofrequency microneedling. “Years of sun exposure without sun protection can lead to rough and uneven texture changes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles,” explains Kikam. He notes that radiofrequency microneedling can be used to treat sagging skin, fine lines and wrinkles, reshaping and supporting the skin’s healthy texture. Perhaps the reason it’s so effective is because it combines two technologies in one. “Microneedling is a medical procedure that uses short, thin needles to injure the skin in a controlled manner, thereby stimulating the production of collagen and elastin and increasing blood flow,” explains Kikam, noting that it can be used alone or in combination with radiofrequency energy for better results. “Radiofrequency energy, on the other hand, is a nonsurgical method in which insulated needles are inserted into the skin, releasing radiofrequency energy from the needle tip, penetrating deep into the skin, stimulating collagen and tightening the skin. ”



08. Consider taking a shuttle While retinol is the gold standard for at-home anti-aging ingredients, Green says, Fraxel is the in-office “magic eraser” and the gold standard treatment for improving skin tone and texture. “Fraxel is often recommended to patients with sun damage because it combats a variety of skin issues,” she says. “Fraxel works by creating controlled microscopic wounds in the skin using highly concentrated laser pulses. As the skin repairs these wounds, collagen production increases, new skin cells grow, and the sun damage begins to heal. “The tricky thing about sun damage is that you can’t always look at it in a way that makes you think, ‘Damn, I have sun damage.'” In some cases, your skin may look relatively flawless, but then you go to the dermatologist and get tested with UV photography and are shocked by the results. That’s because many signs of sun damage take a while to fully reach the surface of the skin (which can seem confusing because UV rays hit the surface of the skin first, but be patient). How long does it take for a sunburn to become noticeable? “Because UV rays damage skin cells so deeply, sunburn can take years to become noticeable,” Green explains. He notes that visible signs of sunburn include brown spots, wrinkles, and fine lines, as well as loss of skin elasticity and uniform tone or texture. If you notice these signs, there’s nothing to worry about, Green says. Instead, take a deep breath and make sure you know how to repair (and prevent) sunburned skin with the list of at-home and in-office treatments we’ve compiled below.





































DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
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