Do I Have Fine Lines or Real Wrinkles? A Dermatologist Explains the Difference

No, you’re not crazy: Fine lines on your face are not the same as mature wrinkles. However, they can be a sign of wrinkle formation, with causes ranging from preventable (exogenous), like sun damage, to non-preventable (endogenous, like, you guessed it, aging).

To learn more about fine lines, including how they differ from wrinkles and how to treat and prevent them, we turned to the experts: board-certified dermatologists Tess Mauricio, MD, FAAD, Marisa Garshick, MD, and Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, FAAD. Read on to find out what they had to say.

Fine Lines vs. Wrinkles: What’s the Difference

“Fine lines are flat, faint lines that are often caused by certain movements or factors like sun damage and dehydration, and appear at an earlier age. Fine lines can be a precursor to wrinkles,” says Mauricio. “Deeper, more noticeable wrinkles are caused by collagen breakdown and muscle movement, and become more pronounced over time.”

Wrinkles on the face

Many behaviors and lifestyle choices contribute to fine lines and eventually wrinkles. The good news? Most are preventable.

Repetitive facial expressions

“If we make certain facial expressions (often), the repetitive motions can lead to wrinkles,” Garshick says. “Just like a piece of paper is folded repeatedly and develops creases, the same happens with certain facial expressions.”

Sunlight

This is probably the most common cause of fine lines after actual aging, so it’s important to take preventative measures to protect your skin from the sun. All three experts note that sun exposure can cause DNA damage and increase the production of free radicals, which can lead to the breakdown of collagen.

Dehydration

As Derek Zoolander once said, “Moisture is the essence of moisture, and moisture is the essence of beauty.” So it’s no surprise that dehydrated skin and a lack of moisture can lead to fine lines and eventually wrinkles. “Dehydrated skin lacks the plumping effects of moisture in skin cells, which can make fine lines more noticeable,” notes Murphy-Ross.

Lack of sleep

If you’ve ever suffered from sleep deprivation, we don’t need to tell you it’s the worst thing ever. But in addition to fatigue and dizziness (and possibly irritability), your skin can suffer, too. “Lack of sleep contributes to the development of fine lines and wrinkles. When we sleep, our skin regenerates and repairs to keep it healthy,” says Garshick. “Without enough sleep, our skin may not repair as well, and fine lines and wrinkles may become more noticeable.”

Poor diet

Eat well, feel good, look good. “Poor nutrition can lead to reduced production of healthy collagen and elastin, and the formation of poor-quality collagen,” says Murphy-Ross. “A balanced diet with adequate protein, fat, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants” can help prevent fine lines. And be sure to keep your Stanley Cup hydrated: “Over time, hydration supports healthy skin and helps prevent fine lines and wrinkles,” she says.

Smoking

If you still smoke, fine lines may be the least of your worries, but they’re certainly an unwanted side effect. “Smoking increases oxidative stress, leading to DNA damage and collagen breakdown, which can cause fine lines and wrinkles,” says Garshick. “In addition, smokers are at risk for smoker’s wrinkles, which form around the mouth due to the repetitive motion of smoking.”

How to Prevent and Treat Fine Lines

In addition to quitting smoking, getting enough sleep, and eating a healthy diet, there are other steps you can take to curb the formation of fine lines (and eventually wrinkles).

Skincare Ingredients

Of the countless ingredients found in skincare, some are particularly helpful in fighting fine lines.

Retinoids: “Vitamin A derivatives like retinol and prescription retinoids can increase collagen and elastin production, preventing and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Murphy-Rose. Garshick backs up this idea: “Retinoids can help treat fine lines and wrinkles because it boosts collagen production, which not only helps prevent the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, but also treats them.”

Antioxidants: “Topical antioxidants like vitamin C, coquinone, resveratrol, green tea, and vitamin E can neutralize free radicals and prevent cell and DNA damage,” says Murphy-Rose. “This helps protect collagen and keep skin youthful.”

Peptides: “Peptides are small protein molecules that signal the body to produce more collagen, which can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Garshick. “One example is RescueMD DNA Repair Complex ($88), which, in addition to lapachol, moisturizing ingredients, and antioxidants, contains collagen peptides to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and make skin look softer and smoother.”

Sunscreen

“Sun protection is essential for keeping skin healthy and youthful,” says Murphy-Rose. “UV radiation causes DNA damage, increases free radical production, and contributes to many signs of aging, including fine lines and wrinkles, by triggering collagen breakdown and elastin breakdown.”

When it comes to protection, sunscreen is an easy place to start. “Apply sunscreen daily to prevent UV damage and collagen breakdown,” says Mauricio. “A good choice is AlumierMD’s Sheer Hydration SPF 40. It’s a clear, hydrating, 100% physical broad-spectrum facial sunscreen.”

Hydration

I’m back with Zoolander (see above). Hydration is essential to keeping your body healthy from head to toe, including your skin. Humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin (found in most anti-wrinkle creams) help attract water, plump up the skin, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, Garshick tells us.And don’t forget to drink water.

Non-Invasive Treatments

“A great way to treat and prevent fine lines and wrinkles is with an in-office treatment that stimulates collagen and elastin production,” Murphy-Ross advises. “My favorite is Sofwave, which uses high-frequency, high-intensity ultrasound technology to heat the tissue just below the skin’s surface, which greatly stimulates collagen production, improves skin quality, prevents fine lines and wrinkles, and protects against signs of aging. This treatment has no downtime.”

She’s also a fan of laser treatments. “CO2 lasers dramatically improve wrinkles by resurfacing the skin and remodeling collagen. This process has a few weeks of downtime,” she says. “Non-ablative fractional resurfacing with Fraxel Dual is another great option, with five to seven days of downtime, which includes redness, mild swelling, and roughness of the skin.”

Gaschick’s recommendations include celebrity-favorite at-home devices. “Non-invasive treatments that can improve fine lines and wrinkles include red light therapy, such as the Solawave Radiant Renewal 4-in-1 Skincare Bar or CurrentBody Skin LED Light Therapy Mask, which can boost collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”

Mauricio recommends “considering microdermabrasion, chemical peels, microneedling, ultrasound, and radiofrequency to stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture,” as does Garshick, who mentions Morpheus8 radiofrequency microneedling as a possible treatment option.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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