Epidermal Growth Factor in Skin Care: Is It Safe? Why we are not sure.
Epidermal Growth Factor in Serums
Some growth factors (GFs) used as skincare ingredients are in the Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) family. This family consists of four proteins, each characterized by a similar structure. Each of these GF proteins acts on identical receptors and exhibits the same biological activity.
Of these different GF proteins in the EGF family, this blog will discuss the Epidermal- Derived Growth Factor, the epidermal growth factor receptor, and the safety of epidermal growth factor in skin care.
What are epidermal growth factors?
What Does Epidermal Growth Factor Do?
Epidermal growth factors have several roles that make them attractive for use in skin care products. such as:
Stimulate the proliferation and migration of keratinocytes
Promote fibroblast motility
Regulate hair growth
Modulate the development of sebaceous and sweat glands
Increase hyaluronic acid (HA) production
Influence the wound healing process.
All of these are desirable attributes which explains the plethora of very expensive anti-aging serums with EGF.
What is the Epidermal Derived Growth Factor Receptor (EGFR)?
The Epidermal Growth Factor Receptor (EGFR) is a cell surface glycoprotein predominantly expressed in the epidermis’s basal layer and the hair follicle’s external root sheath. Its activation dynamics are influenced by extracellular matrix (ECM) elements, integrins, receptors for cytokines, and specific ligands binding to EGFR. Among these ligands are amphiregulin, betacellulin, epiregulin, EGF, TGF-α, heparin-affiliated EGF, and growth factors resembling EGF.(84)
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is capable of activating EGFR.
What happens when EGFR in skin is activated?
Upon EGFR engagement with EGF or another ligand, a cascade involving tyrosine kinase and various signaling pathways initiates. These pathways oversee cellular activities like:
proliferation
differentiation
cellular senescence
apoptosis
Activated tyrosine kinase elevates cellular calcium concentrations and propels DNA synthesis. When EGFR is activated, it encourages the growth and movement of keratinocytes, enhances the activity of fibroblasts, and affects the skin barrier.
Notably, UV-induced EGFR activation leads to reduced apoptosis in keratinocytes resulting in an increased number of senescent cells. Senescent cells are known to contribute to skin aging. Many skin care products are geared to cause autophagy to reduce the number of these cells because increased senescent cells is linked to skin aging.
Best growth factors for skin serums
EGF Serums and Skin Care Products
EGF is a prevalent component in cosmeceutical preparations, along with other growth factors that enhance EGF production.
There are also skin care ingredients that inhibit EGF in skin.
EGF Inhibitors in Skin Care
This are likely much safer and can protect the skin.
EGFR inhibitors include:
genistein
quercetin
daidzein
glycitein
Research indicates that these EGFR blockers can curb the rapid growth of keratinocytes and alleviate skin scaling, especially when there’s an excessive EGF presence, such as seen with over-exfoliation of the skin.
Natural Growth Factors and Plant Derived EGF
There are natural forms of EGFR stimulators such as phytosphingosine-1-phosphate (PhS1P). This ingredient is derived from plant and fungus.
It’s imperative to note that EGF sourced from plants and fungi doesn’t offer increased safety over those originating from humans.
Dangers of epidermal growth factors
Safety of EGF in skin care products
The incorporation of EGF in cosmetics raises safety concerns since any substance triggering EGFR might potentiate the growth of harmful cells, potentially leading to conditions like skin cancer.
EGFR Inhibitors are used to treat cancers. This implies that stimulating EGF might not be a good idea.
EGFR inhibitors are used as cancer treatments to manage certain malignancies, including small cell lung cancer.
Systemic suppression of EGFR with these drugs can mitigate excessive growth of epidermal cells, it can also instigate side effects like inflammation, folliculitis, acneiform eruptions, xerosis, changes in hair growth dynamics, and nail disorders.
So we really do not know if EGF in skin care is safe- it is certain that it is affects many cellular processes.
Growth factors do not get into the skin very well when used topically. Maybe this is why we have not seen reported cases of skin cancer in those using EGF growth factor serums in their skin care routines.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
