Do I Need a Serum and a Moisturizer?
Many of my patients and Reddit followers alike often ask me this question: “Do I need to use a serum and a moisturizer, or can I pick one?” The answer for most people is yes, you do need both a serum and moisturizer. However, there are a few skin types that can get away with just using a serum alone. In this guide, I will walk you through the differences between serums and moisturizers, as well as how best to incorporate them both into your skin care regimen based on your skin type.
First, if you don’t already know your skin type, take the quiz to find out so you will know which advice to follow.
Take the Quiz
Most skin types need a serum and a moisturizer.
Very oily types can get away with only using a serum.
Layer serums under moisturizers to increase absorption and efficacy.
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serum vs moisturizer
Serum vs. Moisturizer: What’s the Difference?
Serums and moisturizers are often confused because they sometimes have a similar consistency. However, they are two different products with different goals. Serums are lightweight skin care products that contain concentrated active ingredients to treat a specific skin concern. Skin-brightening serums, for example, might contain vitamin C, kojic acid, and other lightening ingredients, while an anti-aging serum may contain ingredients like growth factors, exosomes, and peptides. The best serum for you will depend on both your skin type and the skin concerns you are looking to treat.
Moisturizers, on the other hand, tend to be thicker than serums and contain ingredients that hydrate and seal moisture into the skin. Barrier repair moisturizers go a step further and mimic the skin’s natural lipid structure to strengthen its natural barrier, which not only keeps moisture in but also keeps irritants and allergens out. While some serums may contain hydrating ingredients, most do not contain this special 1:1:1 ratio of lipids to directly target skin barrier function.
Thus, you use serums to deliver active ingredients that target a specific skin concern, and moisturizers to hydrate and protect the skin.
Benefits of Serums
Deliver concentrated active ingredients directly to the skin
Target specific concerns like acne, dark spots, and fine lines
Lightweight texture, making them suitable for layering
Available for all skin types and concerns
Benefits of Moisturizers
Hydrate the skin and prevent dryness
Reinforce the skin’s protective barrier
Provide occlusion
Increase the absorption of serums and other skin care products
Some include additional ingredients to reduce redness and inflammation
When to combine serums and moisturizers
When to Combine Serums and Moisturizers
Because serums and moisturizers are used for two distinct purposes, most skin types should use both a serum and a moisturizer. The best way to do this and which specific products to use will depend on your skin type.
Dry Skin Types
If you are a dry type, you need a barrier repair moisturizer and a serum. A barrier repair moisturizer will help to restore the right ratio of lipids that your skin needs in order to have a healthy skin barrier . It will also help to increase the absorption of your serum when placed on top of the serum.
The serum you use will depend on which skin problem you are looking to target. There are many hydrating serums that can help to add extra moisture, as well as skin-brightening, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging serums.
Some popular moisturizers and serums for dry skin include:
Oily Skin Types
Here is where the exception comes in: very oily skin types can get away with using a serum alone and may not need a moisturizer. However, slightly oily types or “combination” types will still benefit from a light moisturizer. Choose one that is more humectant-based than occlusive-based to avoid clogged pores and breakouts.
As with dry skin types, the right serum for oily skin depends on your specific skin concerns. Many oily skin types do well with antioxidant, skin-brightening, anti-aging, or skin-calming serums.
Some popular moisturizers and serums for oily skin include:
How to Layer Serums and Moisturizers
Serums are typically layered on the skin before moisturizers , as this helps to increase the absorption and penetration of the active ingredients in the serum. Applying a moisturizer before a serum will slow the absorption rate of the serum. In some cases, this may be advised if you are trying to gradually introduce your skin to a new ingredient. However, in most cases, serums should be applied before moisturizers.
Bottom Line
In most cases, you should use both a serum and a moisturizer. Serums deliver active ingredients to the deeper layers of skin to treat specific problems like dark spots, wrinkles, or redness, while moisturizers hydrate and protect the skin. When used together properly, the right moisturizer can help to enhance the effectiveness of your serum.
To choose the best serums and moisturizers for your skin, you must first know which of the 16 skin types you are. Once you know your skin type, we can help you create a customized skin care regimen that’s a perfect match for your skin’s unique needs.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
