Everything You Need To Know About Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is a compound made by fermentation in fungi like Aspergillus and Penicillium. Fermented soy and rice products, like miso, soy sauce, and sake, naturally produce kojic acid.

Kojic acid is often used in skin-lightening products because it reduces skin pigmentation by blocking melanin production. This molecule gives color to the skin, hair, and eyes, but it’s also the cause of hyperpigmentation.1

Kojic acid is also used in some medications to treat skin conditions, such as melasma. Keep in mind that it can cause sun sensitivity and skin conditions like contact dermatitis, redness, and flares.2

Uses

Kojic acid has been used in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries:

Cosmetics: Some cosmetic products use 0.4-4% kojic acid as a skin-lightening agent and to increase their shelf life.32 Kojic acid products are among the most expensive skin-lighteners, costing more per ounce than vitamin C and retinol products.4

Dental care products: Kojic acid can be used in dental products, like tooth-whitening patches.5

Medical: Kojic acid can help treat melasma, a condition that causes hyperpigmentation in the skin.5 Other medications, such as antimicrobial drugs, also contain kojic acid.6

Foods: Kojic acid has antioxidant properties. It is used as a food additive to preserve fresh vegetables, seafood, oils, flour, and syrup.67

Benefits

Kojic acid can improve skin hyperpigmentation. In a study of the effects of 3% kojic acid on post-acne skin, participants had increased skin brightness and decreased contrast.8

Kojic acid formulations are sometimes given as a topical adjuvant (additional treatment) to hydroquinone treatment, the most common treatment for melasma. While kojic acid can be prescribed in the United States for this treatment, the European Union, Australia, and Japan have banned it due to safety concerns.9

Other agents can be prescribed alone or in combination with hydroquinone to treat melasma.10 A meta-analysis indicated that kojic acid alone may improve melasma.5

Kojic acid may also have antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects—though studies showing these benefits on human skin are limited.1

How To Use Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is mainly found in creams, serums, lotions, soaps, eye creams, sunscreens, and face washes at 0.4-4% concentrations.3 You can incorporate kojic acid products into your skincare routine to improve dark spots.11

Here are a few tips on how to use kojic acid products:

Use products with a maximum of 1% kojic acid: It is safer to use products with a maximum of 1% kojic acid unless your dermatologist advises otherwise.7

Try on a small area: Apply the product to a small patch of skin and monitor for a few days for any skin reactions. If your skin starts to itch or burn or a rash forms, stop using it and consult a dermatologist. Some products can cause irritation when during long-term use.

Always use sunscreen: Kojic acid and other skin-lightening agents can increase sun sensitivity. Sunscreen will help protect your skin from potential irritation and sun damage.2

Avoid using it on broken skin: Kojic acid is intended for topical use. If you have broken skin, wait until your skin has recovered before using kojic acid.2

Safety and Side Effects

According to the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, kojic acid is safe for cosmetic products at a concentration of up to 1%.7

Skin-lightening agents have gained popularity, leading to inappropriate sales and use of products for lightening skin tone. A study showed that while about 73% of people use skin-lightening agents to treat skin conditions, around 27% use them for general skin-lightening, and only about 23% consult a healthcare provider.1213

Pollock S, Taylor S, Oyerinde O, et al. The dark side of skin lightening: An international collaboration and review of a public health issue affecting dermatology. IJWD. 2021;7(2):158-164. doi:10.1016/j.ijwd.2020.09.0

Cosmetic products, including kojic acid, can cause skin conditions in some individuals. One case study found that face cream caused itching and burning in an individual. Tests confirmed it was due to the product’s 1% kojic acid, so be careful with kojic acid products if you have sensitive skin.14

Choosing a Kojic Acid Product

If you decide to buy a kojic acid product:

Use 1% kojic acid at most: The safety of higher kojic acid concentrations is not yet known.7

Check your other skincare products: You may already be using skin-lightening agents, such as azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, retinoids, and hydroquinone. Before adding another, remember that overusing them can cause long-term health and skin problems.13

Don’t buy homemade creams or products from unknown sellers: Skin-lightening products, including kojic acid products, can contain heavy metals and steroids.15 Steroids can improve skin conditions but should only be used with a prescription from a healthcare provider.16 Cosmetics don’t require U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approval, meaning there may be unsafe products on the market from irresponsible manufacturers.15 Avoid purchasing kojic acid products online from unknown sellers.

A Quick Review

Kojic acid can reduce skin hyperpigmentation, which is why it is commonly used in many skin-lightening cosmetics. It can also be used to treat melasma.

If you’re purchasing kojic acid products, choose one with a maximum concentration of 1% kojic acid, as the safety of higher concentrations is unknown. If you have sensitive skin, consult your dermatologist before using kojic acid—it can cause irritation and other skin conditions.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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