Can You Exfoliate and Use Salicylic Acid?
Salicylic acid is one of the most recognised skin ingredients, with many expressing their admiration for how it can effectively provide clarity, particularly for those prone to acne and frequent flare-ups in breakouts.
With such a potent powerhouse in your routine, we can’t help but wonder whether exfoliating the skin further will either benefit or hinder the health, look, and feel of the complexion. This is exactly what we plan to investigate in today’s blog post and with any luck, we would have answered all your questions about exfoliating and using salicylic acid.
For those of you who are left a little puzzled about what salicylic acid is and how it benefits the skin, this next part is for you, if are already glued up on all thing’s skincare, you can skip to the next part.
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid, AKA, acne arched nemesis, is one of the most used members of the beta hydroxy acid (BHA) family. A dermatologist favourite for combating problematic skin, that suffers from frequent breakouts and blemishes. This acid works on the surface of the skin and sloughs away the build-up of dead skin cells. If these cells are left, you’ll find blemishes such as whiteheads and blackheads will litter your face because of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, and debris clog the pores. You’ll also find salicylic acid is oil soluble meaning it can cut through sebum (the natural oil found in the skin). With a smaller molecular size compared to other acids, salicylic acid can penetrate the lower layers of the skin, deep into the pores.
The beauty of salicylic acid is the fact it is found in an array of formulas containing various percentages, from over-the-counter products to prescriptive. This not only makes the BHA easily found, but you can also find the best product to suit your skin. Salicylic acid is notorious for wreaking havoc on dry and sensitive skin, so for those skin types, opting for a face wash or toner formula will be the most effective as the percentage of the acid is usually lower than that found in a serum.
If you wanted to find out more about salicylic acid and its benefits, check out our dedicated blog post.
Do I need to exfoliate if I use salicylic acid?
No, not really, this is because the way salicylic acid works is as an exfoliant itself. As I have mentioned already, it is an ingredient that is readily found in all manner of skincare products, from face wash to serums. This results in the acid being used during your skincare routine daily providing regular exfoliation. If you find yourself using a product enriched in salicylic acid, as well as another exfoliating product, you could cause the skin to erupt into severe irritation and reaction.
If you are wanting to continue using your salicylic acid product as well as a physical exfoliant, such as a scrub. To benefit from these products, I would suggest alternating when you use each product. For example, using an face wash containing salicylic acid during your morning routine, followed by a physical scrub in during your evening routine.
Can I use a salicylic acid cleanser and exfoliator?
No, avoid using a salicylic acid cleanser and exfoliator as this can cause extreme irritation and dryness. As I have already said, if you are wanting to use both in your skincare routine the most effective way to do so is to alternate when you use each product.
Once you have built your skin’s tolerance to salicylic acid, you are able to use the acid twice a day in your skincare routine. This means you can use your BHA enriched products when it suits you, ensuring it’s during a routine you aren’t applying a face scrub.
For a physical face scrub, I would suggest applying it in the evening as the abrasive action can cause the skin to be left feeling temporarily sensitive. You’ll find it is able to settle and calm itself more effectively during the evening when it isn’t exposed to free radicals, such as UV rays, pollution, and other environmental aggressors. Counteract any long-term dryness and irritation by following your scrub with a serum packed with a hydrating active, such as hyaluronic acid to leave the skin moisturised and nourished.
Is salicylic acid an exfoliant?
Yes, it certainly is, just like other chemical exfoliants, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and malic acid for example. Salicylic acid provides exfoliation to the skin without the use of physical face scrubs, some of which often contain fragments of nut shells, pumice, and other abrasive particles.
You will also find that salicylic acid has a small molecular size that is oil soluble, this results in the acid having the ability to penetrate the lower layers of the skin. When reaching the pores, salicylic acid can provide deep exfoliation working in areas of the skin face scrubs are unable to reach.
What kind of exfoliator should I use?
There is a vast number of different exfoliators that can work on any type of skin. The following section help identify which products suit your skin type.
Oily Skin Types
Due to the excess amount of sebum that sits on the skin surface, oily skins are prone to flare-up in blemishes and can be prone to acne. This requires them to have deep exfoliation, which can be performed with either a physical exfoliant, such as a physical face scrub or cleansing device, or chemical exfoliant such as salicylic acid.
Acne Prone Skin Types
For acne prone skin it is best to opt for products containing chemical exfoliants such as salicylic acid and glycolic acid. As tempting as it may feel to scrub your skin into oblivion, this would cause havoc on your skin, as not only will this spread bacteria resulting in more breakouts, but you will strip the skin of the essential oil and water in needs for the barrier to remain healthy, hydrated, and glowing.
Dry Skin Types
To avoid unwanted irritation, dry skin types will benefit mostly from thicker, creamy textures enriched in gentle acids such as lactic acid and poly hydroxy acids. You can also benefit from physical face scrubs that are also formulated to be richer and creamier in consistency.
Combination Skin Types
Due to combination skin types having a mixture of oily and dry areas of the skin, it is suggested the best formula to use are chemical exfoliants. Physical scrubs and devices should be avoided as these can lead to increase sensitivity and irritation.
I hope that this has answered some of your questions about exfoliating and using salicylic acid. Don’t forget, you can come and find us on Instagram if you have any further questions.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.