Chemical Acids: Are These Skincare Ingredients Still Classified As ‘Natural’?
When skincare comes with labels like ‘chemical acid’ it tends to raise alarm bells. Sounds scary, severe, and the complete opposite of what we should be putting on our skin to nourish and protect.
But these ingredients – AHAs, BHAs, PHAs – are (or can be) derived from natural, plant-based sources. In many other scenarios we’d let the individual terms chemical and acid continue their reign as Baddies, but when combined to speak about skincare and cosmetics, they get a green light.
A chemical acid is an active ingredient, and one that we know exerts a biological influence on the skin, or the skin’s health. They’re the ingredients of a formula designed to deliver the hard-hitting results the product says it will. Like, unclogging pores, softening fine lines, evening skin tone. However, know that the strength and concentration of actives used, as well as your skin type, will influence what level of change you see.
The reason for the term chemical, is purely to describe the style of exfoliation (as opposed to the more commonly known, perhaps more traditional, physical exfoliation). Instead of using rough or jagged particles to slough away dead skin, we’re harnessing these naturally occurring chemicals to cause a similar reaction with superior results. Far more thorough exfoliation, and even skin tone, which is why we prefer this method.
To break down the term acid, I wanted to say it was anything with a sharp odour, sour taste, sits below 7 on the pH scale, and initiates corrosion. But that’s lacking some skin context, right? So I called on Nick, the Technical Manager of Go-To’s peachy lab: “When it comes to exfoliation we are generally talking about hydroxycarboxylic acids. How they work and why they’re named as such, has a lot to do with the structure of the molecule, and how far apart the hydroxy group is from the carboxylic acid group. If there is one carbon between these components then we call them alpha (hydroxy acids), if there’s two carbons between them we call them beta (hydroxy acids), and if there’s many, many hydroxy groups we call them poly (hydroxy acids).”
Applied topically and responsibly (please don’t go rubbing lemons on your face), chemical acids help to loosen the protein that binds skin cells together. This forces dead cells to lift up and off the surface of the skin, revealing a smoother, brighter complexion.
Depending on the strength of this acid, the shedding can actually be visible to the naked eye. Ever notice little flakes falling from your face after a peel? Yah huh. Those are dead cells.
So, spill on the natural sources please!
AHAs: commonly derived from sugarcane, fruit (lemon, grapefruit, tomato), also found in milk.
BHAs: commonly derived from willow bark, wintergreen or sweet birch, and fruit (berries, pineapple, papaya).
PHAs: commonly derived from corn and potato.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
