Best Vitamin C for Melasma
Melasma is a chronic skin condition that causes dark spots due to the accumulation and uneven distribution of the skin pigment melanin.
Fortunately, there are many skin condition treatments and skin care products that can even out skin tone and reduce pigmentation.
Dr. Sheldon Pinel discovered many years ago that ascorbic acid (vitamin C) promotes collagen formation in the skin. Since then, we have learned a lot about the many benefits of vitamin C.
Vitamin C acts as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from the sun and photo-induced inflammation. It also acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor, thereby inhibiting the production of melanin.
Therefore, vitamin C can be used to treat melasma, but it is not the best skin brightener because its tyrosinase inhibition effect is not as strong as other tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid, hexylresorcinol, and arbutin.
I prefer to add vitamin C to my patients’ melasma care routines and choose one of the powerful whitening products for melasma treatment.
To learn more about two different melasma care routines, click here.
I love taking vitamin C orally to treat melasma from the inside out. I also often use it topically and internally to prevent skin aging.
However, I don’t think ascorbic acid is the best treatment for melasma on most skin types. This depends on your Baumann skin type, though.
Only by understanding your Baumann skin type can you determine if vitamin C is the best treatment for melasma.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for melasma skin care?
Over the past decade, vitamin C serums and creams have become a must-have in many skincare routines, which is not surprising given the many beneficial effects of this powerful antioxidant.
Most of the scientific research on the uses and benefits of vitamin C in skin care focuses on L-ascorbic acid, the pure vitamin C found in oranges.
However, L-ascorbic acid breaks down quickly in air and light. So, always buy vitamin C serums that come in amber bottles with small openings or vacuum pumps. Never buy them in cans!
You should look for L-ascorbic acid vitamin C serum formulas with a concentration of 10%, 15%, or 20% as they have the greatest impact on even skin tone.
There is no point in skimping on vitamin C serums. The cheapest vitamin C serums are usually ineffective. Crucibles are useless.
We recommend that you consult a dermatologist or follow our recommendations for the best vitamin C serums for melasma as there are many inferior products that simply don’t work.
Including a high-quality vitamin C serum as part of your daily skincare routine can reduce the appearance of melasma and dark spots on your skin, even out your skin tone, and even reduce the signs of facial aging.
Why are vitamin C serums so expensive?
L-ascorbic acid is difficult to formulate in a way that retains the effectiveness of vitamin C because vitamin C degrades and loses its protective effects on the skin when exposed to air and light.
The production of vitamin C products must take place in an airless and lightless environment. Vitamin C also requires a low pH (acidic) to effectively penetrate the skin.
This is why vitamin C serums are so expensive. Formulating vitamin C correctly is an expensive and patented process.
In short, spend more on vitamin C and save money on cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreen.
When we recommend a skincare routine for your skin type, we try to pick the most affordable products, but vitamin C serums can still be expensive.
Click here to learn more about why these products are so expensive.
What is the most affordable vitamin C serum for melasma?
Our favorite vitamin C serum is Skinceuticals Serum 10 AOX+.
While some vitamin C serums can be slightly irritating, SkinCeuticals Serum 10 AOX+ contains L-ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) and ferulic acid.
Both are powerful antioxidants that inhibit tyrosinase (the enzyme that causes melanin production and dark spots on the skin).
Panthenol (vitamin B5) has anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe the skin and prevent melasma from getting worse. This vitamin C serum also helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
What are the best vitamin C serums for melasma?
These are our favorites due to their vitamin C concentration, pH level, and packaging.
Can all skin types use vitamin C to treat melasma?
Some sensitive and ultra-sensitive skin types cannot tolerate the low pH (acidic) of vitamin C. Skin types prone to rosacea, itchiness, and other sensitivities may be irritated by vitamin C serums.
Although it has not been proven, some patients have reported that vitamin C can cause acne breakouts, so I avoid using vitamin C in patients with acne.
Unless prescribed by a doctor, L-ascorbic acid should not be used on skin that has been damaged after treatments such as microneedling.
We have observed complications (granulomas and other side effects) in people who applied vitamin C to their skin after microneedling.
Usually, it is the vitamin C cream, not the vitamin C serum, that causes the problem. To be safe, consult your doctor.
Which vitamin C cream is best for treating melasma?
We do not recommend using vitamin C cream for melasma. The fatty acids it contains can weaken the effectiveness of the whitening ingredients.
For melasma, it is better to use a vitamin C serum or other whitening products. Never use vitamin C cream in a can. Once opened, the ingredients lose their effectiveness due to air and become useless.
How long will it take for my melasma to disappear?
The time it takes for melasma to improve depends on many factors, including:
Are you using the right melasma skincare products for your skin type?
Do all your skincare products work synergistically to treat melasma instead of inhibiting each other?
Are you taking a break from tyrosinase inhibitors and alternating between a melasma treatment regimen and a melasma maintenance regimen?
Does your choice of melasma moisturizer and cleanser allow your vitamin C serum to brighten your skin better?
Do you combine your vitamin C serum with other powerful tyrosinase inhibitors?
Do you use PAR-2 blockers?
Do you use tinted sunscreen (with iron oxide) to avoid sunlight and blue light (from your phone)?
Have you used light therapy or laser therapy, which can make your melasma worse?
Do you avoid hot environments, such as infrared saunas?
Are you pregnant?
Do you take estrogen?
Are you making lifestyle changes to clear your skin of melasma?
Even if you take all the right steps, melasma can take 12 to 16 weeks to disappear. Don’t waste time and money on products that aren’t right for your skin.
Vitamin C may not be the best product for your melasma!
Discover the best skincare routine for your Bowman skin type today!
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
