Lactobionic Acid Will Gently Exfoliate Even the Most Sensitive Skin Types
While exfoliation is one of the best ways to remove dead skin cells and boost your glow, many physical and chemical exfoliants can be too harsh in practice—and that especially goes if you have sensitive skin. If your complexion seems to react at the mere sight of a nearby acid but you still could use a bit of rejuvenation, lactobionic acid is a gentler option that may be worth a try. Aside from its exfoliating properties, this ingredient also works to hydrate the skin and support the skin barrier, among other benefits (and all with minimal to no irritation). Ahead, dermatologists explain all you need to know about lactobionic acid, from its benefits to where it best fits into your routine.
Meet the Experts
Hannah Kopelman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Kopelman Aesthetic Surgery in New York City.
Karyn Grossman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Grossman Dermatology.
What Is Lactobionic Acid?
Lactobionic acid is an exfoliating and hydrating skincare ingredient that’s classified as a polyhydroxy acid (PHA). It comes from milk sugars and is known to be milder and more gentle on the skin than alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).
“What I find so appealing about lactobionic acid is how gentle it is while still delivering real results,” says board-certified dermatologist Hannah Kopelman, MD. “It’s derived from lactose, which is a milk sugar, and that gentleness really sets it apart.”
Board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Karyn Grossman, MD, explains that lactobionic acid has a larger molecular structure than AHAs and BHAs, which makes it less likely to deeply penetrate the skin, allowing for a gentler exfoliation process.
Benefits of Lactobionic Acid
Interested in giving lactobionic acid a try (or need a bit more convincing)? Below are a few ways this skincare ingredient can benefit your skin:
Gentle exfoliation: Lactobionic acid exfoliates and helps remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface without being as harsh as some other types of skincare acids. This means it’s less likely to cause irritation, stinging, and burning sensations. “It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, which helps promote cell turnover,” Kopelman says. “This can lead to smoother skin, fewer fine lines, and that radiant, healthy glow we all strive for.”
Hydration: People with dry skin can benefit from incorporating lactobionic acid into their skincare routine because of the ingredient’s hydrating properties. “One of the standout features of lactobionic acid is its ability to attract and retain moisture,” Grossman says. “It acts as a humectant, drawing water into the skin, which helps improve skin hydration and reduce dryness.”
Antioxidants: Lactobionic acid has antioxidant properties, which can protect your skin.1 “It helps protect your skin from free radicals—those pesky molecules that can cause premature aging,” Kopelman says. “By shielding your skin from oxidative stress, lactobionic acid helps maintain a youthful appearance.”
Supports the skin barrier: Lactobionic acid helps strengthen the skin’s barrier health. 1 “This makes it especially beneficial for those with compromised skin, whether it’s due to environmental factors or underlying conditions like eczema or rosacea,” Kopelman says.
Reduces appearance of fine lines: “By gently exfoliating the skin and enhancing moisture retention, lactobionic acid can minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making the skin appear smoother and more plump,” Grossman says.
Who Should Use It
Lactobionic acid is suitable for many different skin types, though dermatologists say it can be a particularly good option for people with slightly sensitive skin or those who are new to exfoliation and nervous about irritating their complexion. “It’s such a gentle exfoliant that even those who can’t tolerate AHAs or BHAs can usually use it without any issues,” Kopelman says. “But really, almost anyone can benefit from lactobionic acid, whether you’re looking to smooth out your skin, add a bit more hydration, or protect against the signs of aging.” Because of lactobionic acid’s moisturizing properties, it can also be good for people with dry or dehydrated skin, Grossman tells us.
If you have an allergy to lactose or milk, be cautious about using lactobionic acid, given that it’s derived from lactose. As always, you should ask your dermatologist if you have any uncertainty about whether the ingredient seems safe for you to try.
How to Use It
Lactobionic acid may be significantly gentler than most exfoliants, but proper use is still important to ensure you get maximum benefits while keeping your skin happy. A few top tips to follow are below:
Let your skin adjust: The first rule of thumb, as with most skincare products, is to start slow. “When incorporating lactobionic acid into your skincare routine, start by using it two to three times a week, especially if you are new to exfoliants,” Grossman says. “This allows your skin to build tolerance. As your skin adjusts, you can increase usage to every other day or even daily, depending on your skin’s response.”
Keep your skin hydrated: After using lactobionic acid, it’s important to use a good moisturizer. “This helps seal in the moisture and keep your skin feeling soft and supple,” Kopelman says.
Wear plenty of SPF: Keep in mind that exfoliants like lactobionic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so you’ll need to be diligent about wearing sunscreen. “Make sure you’re applying sunscreen every day, even if it’s cloudy,” Kopelman says. “Protecting your skin from UV damage is crucial.”
Stick to nighttime use: Grossman suggests using lactobionic acid at night, since exfoliating products can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
Be mindful of your routine: Grossman also suggests using caution when combining lactobionic acid with other strong exfoliants or retinoids. “I usually suggest that you use either a retinoid or an acid on a given evening,” Grossman says. “Those with very oily skin may tolerate a lactobionic acid toner followed by a retinoid, but this would need to be worked up to very gradually.”
Check for sensitivity: As with other skincare products, consider doing a patch test before incorporating lactobionic acid into your skincare routine. This gives you a chance to see how your skin responds to the product, and is especially important if your skin is reactive.
The Final Takeaway
Given lactobionic acid balances exfoliating and hydrating properties while being gentle on sensitive skin, it may just be the skincare ingredient you never knew you needed. Dermatologists say it works for most skin types, so while you should patch-test if you’re worried about a reaction, this is a good option to consider if you’re looking for a way to achieve a rejuvenated glow with minimal irritation.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
