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Gentle Yet Powerful: Why Lactic Acid Transforms Your Skin
Beauty

Gentle Yet Powerful: Why Lactic Acid Transforms Your Skin

11 April 2025


Lactic acid is one of the most popular alpha hydroxy acids in skin care, and for good reason. Much milder than many other AHAs, this acid is derived from kefir and is known for its surface exfoliating properties




removing dead skin cells while reducing the appearance of fine lines and discoloration. As a lactic acid newbie, I tested one of the most popular products on the market, not to mention a favorite from Byrdie HQ: Sunday Riley’s



Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment.




I used it every day for two weeks and noticed a change in my skin’s texture, radiance and moisture levels, as well as an improvement in dark spots and fine lines. Is this exfoliating, plumping serum treatment winning over people?



Please read carefully to find out.




About my skin: Normal to oily with slight fine lines. My skin conditions vary from season to season, with my skin fluctuating between normal and oily in the summer and more prone to clogged pores and blemishes—especially now



that I wear a mask every time I leave the house.




I also struggle with texture and find that my skin is rarely smooth, whether it’s dry, oily or somewhere in between. I also suffered significant sun damage from years of tanning at the beach as a teenager, which showed up in the



form of small freckle-like dark spots on my cheeks.




I generally shy away from acids because I’ve had severe reactions to stronger ingredients in the past and have never used lactic acid treatments consistently before. Given my current skin condition, and the fact that I’m



starting to notice fine lines appearing around my eyes (hello, I’m 30!)




Good Genes seemed like the perfect choice for me to try a daily AHA for the first time. Since this product can be used both during the day and at night, I decided to incorporate it into my evening routine.



After spritzing Maison Jacynthe Rose Petal Water on clean skin, I apply Good Genes to my face and neck and let it absorb, then apply a more powerful nighttime moisturizer, Haoma’s Recovery Night Cream. Because the product is




gentle enough for daily use, I used it every night during the two-week test period.



Ingredients: Lactic acid and plant ingredients work together to refine skin. Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment is based on natural lactic acid, which works to remove pore-clogging dead skin cells from the skin’s




surface, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots



leaving skin fresh and radiant. Lactic acid is also known to kill acne-causing bacteria, promote cell turnover, and help skin retain moisture. 1 Additionally, licorice and lemongrass can fade dark spots and other skin




discolorations



2 while aloe vera like prickly pear extract, arnica and so on can soothe skin and reduce redness. Lactic acid is the second ingredient listed, while prickly pear extract and aloe vera, which are part of the brand’s botanical




extract blend (including other extracts and water) are listed as the first ingredient, indicating that they are both present in effective concentrations. It’s worth noting that arnica, lemongrass, and licorice are listed as



ingredients 14, 16, and 17 respectively, but they are not the final ingredients in the formula. This product is considered clean by Birdie’s standards. While it does contain some PEG, the brand’s lab assistant confirmed to




Byrdie that all of the PEG used has been cleaned of contaminants and contaminants. It’s also vegan, cruelty-free, gluten-free, and comes in recyclable packaging.



Feel: Light, fast absorbing. Good Genes is a white milky serum that blends into the skin quickly after application. It’s lightweight yet hydrating, leaving skin feeling smooth, plump, and hydrated without leaving a lot of




residue.



Although I choose to use it as a night cream, it’s a great makeup base due to its instant texture-enhancing effect. Aroma: citrus fruity and floral. Sunday Riley uses no artificial flavors in its products, but the natural




botanicals in the Good Genes formula give the product a delightful citrus-floral scent.



Drying and Irritation: LA is much milder than other acids. Compared to some other acids on the market, lactic acid is one of the milder options available.

Because its molecules are relatively large, it doesn’t penetrate deep into the skin and is more of a surface exfoliation and polishing treatment with a tightening effect. Plus, it doesn’t affect your skin’s pH.

I didn’t experience any irritation or dryness while using this product – quite the opposite, other than being more sensitive to the sun. Sensitivity: Be careful with sun exposure and other acids

While lactic acid is a milder acid, it is still an AHA acid, which means it can increase your sensitivity to the sun and make you more susceptible to sunburn. 3 When using this product and for a week after use, it is best to

limit use and avoid sun exposure, and make sure to always apply (and reapply) SPF.

However, it’s best to avoid the sun as much as possible, because after a day at the beach, even after constantly using SPF, I got a mild sunburn – something I don’t normally experience.

You should also avoid mixing lactic acid with other acids and exfoliants (such as other AHAs or benzoyl peroxide) as well as retinol; this may cause redness or dryness. If you have particularly sensitive skin, the brand

recommends using Good Genes as a 15-minute mask instead of a leave-in treatment.

Results: Skin becomes instantly firmer and hydrated, with improved radiance and texture over time After using Good Genes for the first time, my skin felt firmer, softer, and more hydrated after the product was completely

absorbed. While I can feel the results more than I see them, overall I’m left with a dewy, more radiant glow.

The brand promises the product will instantly plump fine lines and wrinkles in just three minutes. Looking up close, I noticed a slight difference in the faint lines under my eyes, but not enough for others to notice or for my

phone camera to capture.Still a clear advantage!

After using this product as a nighttime treatment, I wake up every morning with smooth, radiant skin. I haven’t noticed any significant improvement in my sun spots or fine lines in two weeks, but I love the exfoliation of this

product and will continue to use it. If it fades my sun spots and faded lines over time, that’s an added bonus! Value: You get what you pay for Earlier this year, Sunday Riley cut the price of Good Genes by 20%, from $105 to $85

an ounce.

While $85 isn’t cheap, and there are certainly plenty of affordable lactic acid products on the market, Sunday Riley prides itself on using clean, high-quality ingredients and eco-friendly formulas backed by science. In my

opinion, you get what you pay for. Similar products: competitive The Ordinary’s Lactic Acid 5% + HA 2% ($6.50): There are many Good Genes knockoffs on the market at various price points, but the most popular is The Ordinary’s

Lactic Acid 5% + HA 2% Serum Ordinary, a liquid with gentle exfoliating properties Serum with keratin effects. Both products contain skin-soothing ingredients that help combat acid-related redness and irritation. (Good Genes

uses prickly pear extract, arnica, and aloe vera, while The Ordinary uses a derivative of the Tasmanian pepper plant.)

The Ordinary provides extra moisture through hyaluronic acid, while The Good Genes is formulated with licorice and lemongrass, Brightens the appearance of dark spots and discoloration. While I haven’t personally tested The

Ordinary’s serums, both products have rave reviews. If you’re new to acids and hesitant to buy an entry-level product, The Ordinary’s serum is much cheaper (we’re talking $6.50 an ounce), so it might be a better choice for you.

If you’re looking for a stronger drink, The Ordinary offers a 10% lactic acid version that’s only 20 cents more expensive.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
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