Glycation in skin
Glycation in skin is a complex process that can lead to skin aging. It begins when sugar molecules like glucose bind to proteins like collagen and elastin, creating advanced glycation end products (AGEs) [1]. This non-enzymatic reaction, also called the Maillard reaction, causes damage over time [2]. In skin, accumulated AGEs degrade collagen and elastin fibers, resulting in wrinkles and loss of elasticity [3,4]. Glycation also makes these proteins resistant to remodeling enzymes [5,6]. Additionally, glycation generates free radicals that contribute to further skin damage [7,8]. Preventing glycation requires reducing blood sugar levels through diet, exercise, and possibly medications like metformin. Overall, controlling glycation is key to maintaining youthful, healthy skin as we age.
Definition of Glycation
Glycation is essentially the reaction that makes food taste better through browning. It involves sugars binding to proteins, which is why it occurs when you toast bread or caramelize onions. The same process happens in our bodies as sugar molecules from foods react with proteins like collagen and elastin in skin. This reaction between sugars and proteins produces advanced glycation end products (AGEs). The accumulation of these AGEs over time leads to stiffening and crosslinking of collagen fibers, loss of elastin’s snap-back ability, and other effects that contribute to aged, damaged skin. So in a nutshell, glycation is like the Maillard browning reaction that chefs use for flavor, but inside the body it can have undesirable consequences over the long-term.
Skin Care Products
Once collagen and elastin are glycated, topical products cannot reverse the crosslinking and stiffness. Skincare ingredients do not have the ability to un-crosslink or detach sugar molecules from proteins . However, certain actives may help mitigate damage.
Retinoids boost desquamation, assisting with removal of abnormal fibers. Alpha hydroxy acids exfoliate the skin, aiding elimination of damaged matrix materials.
While skincare cannot undo existing glycation, select ingredients can potentially stimulate collagen turnover and processing of dysfunctional proteins. Skin care products that treat glycation either treat the glycation symptoms or help the skin get rid of the AGEs through autophagy. Then best product to treat skin glycation is the Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar.
These products have been used to help target AGEs in skin:
Glycation in Skin
Glycation damages skin components which leads to thin, fragile, wrinkled and aged skin. Collagen and elastin are the skin proteins that are affected the most.
What is collagen
Collagen Glycation
Glycation negatively impacts collagen, a key structural protein in skin. When sugar molecules attach to collagen, crosslinks form between collagen fibers [1]. This crosslinking makes the collagen molecules rigid and unable to remodel properly [2]. Glycated collagen loses its strength and flexibility, leading to wrinkles and sagging [3]. The crosslinks also accumulate over time, progressively stiffening the collagen network. This reduced collagen flexibility impairs skin function and resilience. [4].
Elastin structure
Elastin Glycation
Elastin fibers are also vulnerable to glycation damage. Binding of sugar degrades the elastin protein structure [5]. Glycation of elastin makes the fibers resistant to degradation by elastase, causing buildup of abnormal elastotic material [6]. This leads to loss of snap-back capability in aged skin [7]. Glycated elastin is also linked to impaired fibroblast function, further deteriorating the extracellular matrix [8].
Preventing Glycation
You cannot remove AGEs very easily from skin except through autophagy, so it is best to try and prevent glycation from happening in the skin.
The best way to prevent glycation is to make sure you are using the best skin care routine for your skin type.
Antioxidants
Glycation reactions spurred by free radicals can amplify age-related skin damage. Reactive oxygen species propagate destructive oxidation reactions with glycated proteins [9]. Using topical antioxidants like vitamin C helps mitigate this oxidative stress and prevent some glycation [10].
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Sunscreens
Ultraviolet radiation from sunlight can exacerbate glycation processes in skin. UV exposure generates reactive oxygen species that interact with glycated proteins, propagating oxidative damage [7,8]. This leads to accelerated formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) like Nε-carboxymethyllysine and pentosidine [3]. UV light also causes crosslinking between proteins, and between proteins and sugars, creating AGE complexes that accumulate over time [9]. In addition, UV radiation impairs the glyoxalase enzyme which detoxifies precursors to AGEs, allowing more deleterious glycation reactions [5]. The combination of UV light and glycation magnifies destruction of collagen and elastin. Using sunscreen and limiting unprotected sun exposure can help defend against photoaging driven by glycation reactions.
Sunscreens with antioxidants can help prevent skin glycation.
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Controlling Blood Sugar
Reducing blood sugar levels decreases glycation by limiting the amount of glucose available to bind proteins [1]. A low-glycemic diet and exercise help reduce glycation. Medications such as metformin, semaglutide (Ozempic, Wegovy) and tirzepatide (Mounjaro) help improve glycemic control.
Summary
Glycation can be mitigated through several strategies. Reducing blood sugar levels decreases glycation by limiting the amount of glucose available to bind proteins [1]. A low-glycemic diet, exercise, metformin, and semaglutide help improve glycemic control. Limiting UV exposure is also beneficial since sunlight spurs free radical glycation reactions [2]. Antioxidants like vitamin C combat these radicals, whether applied topically or consumed orally [3]. Other natural compounds like aminoguanidine and carnosine have anti-glycation effects [4]. Overall, decreasing blood sugar, avoiding excess sun exposure, and increasing antioxidant intake and use can help curb glycation and its impact on skin aging [5]. A multi-pronged approach targeting blood sugar, oxidation, and direct anti-glycation agents offers the most comprehensive defense against this process.
Start by making sure your skin care routine is right for your Baumann Skin Type.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.