Lactic acid is one of the most popular alpha hydroxy acids in skin care, and for good reason. Much gentler than many other AHAs, this acid is derived from kefir and is known for its surface exfoliating properties,
sloughing away dead skin cells while reducing fine lines and discoloration. As a lactic acid newbie, I tested one of the most popular products on the market, not to mention a Byrdie HQ favorite: Sunday Rileys
Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment.
I used it daily for two weeks and saw changes in my skin’s texture, radiance, and hydration levels, as well as improvements in dark spots and fine lines. Is this exfoliating, plumping serum-based treatment a winner?
Read on to find out.
About my skin: Normal to oily with minor fine lines. My skin condition varies by season. In the summer, my skin fluctuates between normal and oily, and I’m more prone to clogged pores and breakouts—especially now that I wear a mask every time I leave the house. I also struggled with texture, finding that my skin was rarely smooth, whether it was dry, oily, or somewhere in between. I also suffered from severe sun damage as a teenager from years of sunbathing at the beach, which showed up as small, freckle-like dark spots on my cheeks. In general, I shy away from acids because I’ve had severe reactions to stronger ingredients in the past and have never consistently used lactic acid treatments. Given my current skin condition and the fact that I was starting to notice fine lines around my eyes (hello, I’m 30!), Good Genes seemed like the perfect choice for my first try at a daily AHA. Since the product can be used both day and night, I decided to incorporate it into my nighttime routine.
After spraying Maison Jacynthe Rose Petal Water onto cleansed skin, I apply Good Genes to my face and neck and let it absorb. I’ll then apply a stronger nighttime moisturizer, Haomas Restoring Night Cream. Since the product is gentle enough for daily use, I used it every night during my two-week testing period.
Ingredients: Lactic acid and botanicals work together to refine skin. Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Treatment is based on natural lactic acid, which removes pore-clogging dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots for a fresh, radiant complexion. Lactic acid also kills acne-causing bacteria, promotes cell turnover, and helps the skin retain moisture. 1 Additionally, licorice and lemongrass can fade dark spots and other skin discolorations, while aloe vera, like cactus extract, arnica, and others, can soothe the skin and reduce redness. Lactic acid is the second ingredient listed, while cactus extract and aloe vera, which are part of the brand’s blend of botanical extracts (including other extracts and water), are listed as the first ingredients, indicating that they are both present in effective concentrations. It’s worth noting that arnica, lemongrass, and licorice are listed as ingredients 14, 16, and 17, respectively, but are not final ingredients in the formula. By Birdie’s standards, this product is considered clean. Although it contains some PEGs, the brand’s lab assistant confirmed to Byrdie that all PEGs used have been purified and are free of impurities and contaminants. It’s also vegan, cruelty-free, gluten-free, and comes in recyclable packaging.
Feel: Lightweight, fast-absorbing. Good Genes is a white, milky serum that absorbs into the skin very quickly after application. It’s lightweight, yet hydrating, and leaves skin feeling smooth, plump, and hydrated without leaving much residue.
While I use it as a night cream, it makes a great base for makeup due to its instant texture-enhancing effects. Scent: Lemony, fruity, and floral. Sunday Riley doesn’t use artificial fragrances in its products, instead using natural ones. The botanicals in the Good Genes formula give the product a wonderful lemony-floral scent.
Drying and irritation: LA is much gentler than other acids. Lactic acid is one of the gentler options compared to some of the other acids on the market.
Because it’s a larger molecule, it doesn’t penetrate deeply into the skin and is more of a superficial exfoliant. And a polishing treatment with a firming effect. Plus, it has no effect on the pH of the skin.
I didn’t experience any irritation or dryness while using this product — quite the opposite, aside from making me more sensitive to the sun. Sensitivity: Be careful with sun exposure and other acids
Although lactic acid is a milder acid, it’s still an AHA acid, which means it can increase your sun sensitivity and make you more susceptible to sunburn. 3 It’s best to
limit use and avoid sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards, and be sure to always apply (and reapply) SPF.
However, it’s best to avoid sun exposure as much as possible, as I did get a minor sunburn after a day at the beach despite constant use of sunscreen — something I don’t normally experience.
You should also avoid mixing lactic acid with other acids and exfoliants (like other AHAs or benzoyl peroxide) as well as retinol; this can cause redness or dryness. If your skin is particularly sensitive, the brand recommends using Good Genes as a 15-minute mask rather than a leave-on treatment.
The result: Skin instantly appears firmer and more hydrated, with improved radiance and texture over time. After using Good Genes for the first time, my skin felt firmer, softer, and more hydrated once the product was fully absorbed. While I could feel the results more than I could see them, overall I had a dewy, more radiant glow.
The brand promises that the product will instantly smooth out fine lines and wrinkles in just three minutes. Upon closer inspection, I noticed a slight difference in the fine lines under my eyes, but not enough for others to notice or for my phone camera to capture. Still a clear advantage!
After using this product as a nighttime treatment, I wake up every morning with smooth, radiant skin. I haven’t noticed any significant improvement in my sun spots or fine lines in two weeks, but I love the exfoliation of this product and will continue to use it. If it makes my sun spots and discoloration lines fade over time, that’s a bonus! Value: You get what you pay for Earlier this year, Sunday Riley slashed the price of Good Genes by 20%, from $105 to $85 per ounce.
While $85 isn’t cheap, and there are certainly many affordable lactic acid products on the market, Sunday Riley prides itself on using clean, quality ingredients and science-backed, eco-friendly formulas. In my opinion, you get what you pay for. Similar Products: Competitors Lactic Acid 5% + HA 2% by The Ordinary ($6.50): There are a number of Good Genes knockoffs on the market at various price points, but the most popular is The Ordinarys
Lactic Acid 5% + HA 2% Serum by The Ordinary, a liquid serum with mild exfoliating properties and a keratin effect. Both products contain skin-soothing ingredients to combat acid-related redness and irritation. (The Good Genes
uses cactus extract, arnica, and aloe vera, while The Ordinary uses a derivative of the Tasmanian pepper plant.)
The Ordinary contains hyaluronic acid for extra hydration, while The Good Genes is formulated with licorice and lemongrass to brighten dark spots and uneven skin tone. Although I used the serum from The
While I haven’t personally tested the Ordinary, both products have received rave reviews. If you’re new to acids and are hesitant to invest in an entry-level product, The Ordinary’s serum is much cheaper (we’re talking $6.50 per ounce), so it might be a better option for you.
If you’re looking for a stronger drink, The Ordinary offers a 10% lactic acid version for just 20 cents more.
