Peptides are a bit like PPIs in terms of how they work – people talk about them, but they get thrown around, but I don’t think many of us really understand them or know what they really offer.
As Freud said, they carry the “stamp of serious science”, but much of the information provided by cosmetic brands about their peptide of choice is hollow: they describe them as “skin firming” or “enhancing”. There’s no real
explanation.
Here’s an introduction to peptides: As you probably know, collagen is a protein. Proteins are made up of amino acids arranged in chains. When collagen breaks down, shorter fragments of amino acids are created.
These small proteins and molecules are called peptides, and they have the ability to actually control your cells, for example making them produce more collagen.
And that’s not all. Consultant dermatologist Dr. Justine Hextall, of Harley Medical Group, believes that peptides can have many different applications. “They may have the effect of enhancing collagen, but there are other types of peptides that can help with general skin regeneration.
For example, it can reduce pigmentation on sun-damaged skin, improve skin elasticity, and make the skin look smoother and firmer,” she explains. “Some peptides can be used because they
“It can even be used for wound healing because of its regenerative effects,” she adds.
“Copper tripeptide is a great example. It’s used to heal wounds or relieve inflammation, and it can also boost collagen and elastin synthesis and has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. That’s why you get so many
different products.” ”
Would you like more? There are also peptides that improve hydration. “Keratin peptides can repair skin and hair by increasing moisture and elasticity,” explains Dr. Hextal. The upshot? Yes, you can definitely use peptides if you suffer from any of the above issues, and unlike many so-called miracle ingredients, there’s plenty of data to back them up. The best-known is probably Matrixyl, made by peptide OG Dr. Carl Lintner. A 2013 study found that it can double collagen levels in the skin, which is nothing to sneeze at. You can find deals on Matrixyl at different price ranges: I like Paula’s Choice Peptide Booster, which costs £51, but The Ordinary has one too. Of course, that’s not all peptides can do. Integrative Beauty uses peptides in its Good Morning! Super Serum, which costs £95 and has antibacterial properties, making it perfect for oily, acne-prone skin types, as well as any slightly fungal skin types (sorry I had to say that). I’ve written a lot about my love for the NIOD CAIS (£70), but it’s so good – Copper peptides also have antibacterial properties and can rejuvenate the skin. There’s also No7’s new skincare range, Future Renew, which has been described as ‘Botox in a bottle’.
Every product from the No7 Future Renew Serum (£42.95) to the No7 Future Renew Night Cream (£34.95) relies on ‘gastrobiology’, essentially a combination of two peptides naturally found in the skin, to improve collagen.
Think of peptides as a godsend to skincare. Whatever the problem, there’s probably a peptide that can fix it. You can go for a product that plumps, brightens, hydrates or all three if you like.
Personally, I like the boosting serums best, as finding one that hits all your skin needs and contains the peptide blend you want can be quite a challenge. But if you’re looking to cut back on your routine, go for it. One of the multi-tasking products.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
