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How BHA Exfoliants Work and How to Use Them Effectively
Skin Care

How BHA Exfoliants Work and How to Use Them Effectively

14 April 2025


How Does a BHA Exfoliant Work?




Exfoliating facial acids have truly established themselves in almost everyone’s skincare routine. From cleansers, toners and leave-on products there is sure to be a product that will work in your regime and deliver a variety of skin benefits.



This leads us to today’s post and answering a few of your questions about BHA exfoliants and how they actually work. Beta hydroxy acid (BHA), also known as salicylic acid, is a potent facial acid that unlike, AHAs, is oil-soluble meaning it is able to work further down the layers of the skin making it able to unclog pores of any bacteria, dirt or excess sebum which in time leads to blemishes, blackheads and other forms of breakouts. It is also able to buff away any build-up of dead skin cells which can give the skin a dull, flaky and lack lustre appearance.




Don’t forget you can find out more about beta hydroxy acids over on our website.



How do you use a BHA exfoliant?




To use a BHA exfoliant really boils down to which product it is you are using that contains the acid in the formula. As previously mentioned, there are a selection of products to choose from.



Face Cleanser or Wash




Requires water and rinsing



Ideal for using in the mornings to help brighten the skin for the day ahead




Always follow with an SPF at the end of your routine to protect from any sun exposure



Can be used in the evening too which will allow the product to work at clearing away any build of bacteria, dirt and traces of product




Cleansers/washes are better for a skin type that experiences some dryness as the product is rinsed off the face treats the skin for a shorter amount of time



Exfoliating Toner




Used on a cotton disc and applied onto the skin



Generally a lot more potent than cleansers and can help the BHA penetrate further into the skin clearing clogged pores and bacteria build-up




Helps to slough away dead skin cell build-up that can make the skin appear dull



Can be used morning and evening if skin doesn’t show signs of sensitivity




Serum or Face Oil



Applied after cleansing the skin and before moisturiser




Can be used AM and PM



Serums and oils stay on the skin for a longer amount of time and will show results a lot quicker



This product is best used for those who suffer from an oilier skin type and frequent breakouts

When adding BHA into your skincare routine you must first ensure your skin will benefit from it and not suffer from any reactions. It is best to consult a dermatologist if you find your skin to be prone to extreme dryness and sensitivity.

Can I use a BHA exfoliant every day?

This is dependent on your skin type and percentage of salicylic acid in the product formulation. For over the counter (OTC) products there is usually a lower percentage than products given by prescriptions, for those who have a dry and sensitive skin type it is best to use BHA exfoliant as specified by a dermatologist or skincare professional.

For the most part, using an BHA exfoliant every day in your routine should result in a number of skin benefits, especially if you have an oily or blemish-prone skin type. Just ensure you keep the balance of water and oil levels in your skin by using hydrating and moisturising products which contain hyaluronic acid and niacinamide within your regime. If at any point you find your skin starts to feel tight, uncomfortable and dry than reduce the amount of times you apply BHA exfoliants allowing your skin to restore balance to the outer layer and protective skin barrier.

How long does it take to work?

You will find there are some instant results when using a product containing salicylic acid, particularly chemical toners. The skin will appear fresher looking with a healthy glow, in regards to treating any breakouts or other blemishes, you can expect to see results in 4-6 weeks. This is from the continuous usage of salicylic acid, especially if it is blended into a face serum that is applied in the evening. This will not only give the BHA longer time on the skin, but will also be able to work undisturbed from any contact with any free radicals and other skin damaging compounds such as, UV exposure and pollution.

Does BHA dry out skin?

BHA is highly potent and when formulated to active levels in a product becomes a powerhouse ingredient. This makes it highly effective at giving results to the skin, but can become very drying to the skin.

How to avoid BHA drying out the skin;

Ensure it is safe to use BHA on your skin type, if you have concerns consult a dermatologist

If you experience any tightness or dryness to the skin when using BHA reduce the amount of times you use that product allowing the skin to restore balance

Do not overuse a product containing BHA, let the percentage in the formula do the hard work, do not use extra amounts for quicker results. This will only lead to the skin become drier and suffer from more severe breakouts

Always use highly hydrating ingredients in your serums and moisturisers, this will allow the skin to remain comfortable and skin protective barrier working correctly

What should you do after using BHA?

After using BHA there are a couple of steps you need to take to allow the skin ingredient to have a beneficial effect. This also depends on which product contains the acid in it also as the following steps can alternate.

Face cleanser or wash- Follow this step with a good skincare routine containing hyaluronic acid or niacinamide to give the skin a hydration boost and protecting the outer layers of the skin.

Exfoliating toners- After applying a hydrating serum or moisturiser, ensure you have protected the skin from UV exposure with a SPF of 30 and above.

Serum or oil- Keeping the skin protected from sun exposure is vital, especially whilst using a serum or oil as the BHA will work on the skin continuously. Apply a layer of SPF during the day and ensure you cleanse the skin fully of an evening to avoid any product build-up.

There you have some answers to how does a BHA exfoliant work. You will find that once your skin has gained a good tolerance to this potent skin ingredient your complexion will look better than ever!

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
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