How Licorice Extract Can Transform Your Skin: Benefits, Uses, and Risks

Licorice Extract in Skin Care: Benefits, Uses, and Considerations

Licorice root extract is a powerhouse ingredient that’s increasingly found in skin care products ranging from moisturizers and anti-aging creams to sunscreens and treatments for acne and hyperpigmentation. With a long history of medicinal use dating back to ancient civilizations like Egypt, Greece, and China, licorice extract is known for its versatility and a wide array of skin benefits.

But is it right for your skin type? Let’s explore what licorice extract is, its key benefits, potential risks, and how it’s used in modern skincare.

What Is Licorice Extract?

Licorice extract (scientifically known as Glycyrrhiza glabra) is derived from the roots of the licorice plant. This plant is native to Europe, Asia, and parts of the Middle East and has been widely used in traditional medicine for thousands of years. The extract contains bioactive compounds that make it useful not only in medicine but also in cosmetics and skincare.

The primary active compound in licorice extract is glabridin, which is responsible for many of its therapeutic effects. Licorice root extract is typically pressed into an oil and refined for use in skin care products, though it can also be found in its raw, powdered form. Additionally, some variants like Chinese licorice root (Glycyrrhiza inflata) are also used for skin care, though they are not the exact same species.

Key Benefits of Licorice Root Extract in Skin Care

Licorice extract is celebrated for its multi-faceted properties, offering a variety of benefits that make it suitable for a wide range of skin concerns. Some of the most notable benefits include:

1. Anti-Aging and Skin Repair

Licorice extract is known to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines over time. This is primarily due to its antioxidant properties, which help neutralize free radicals that contribute to the skin’s aging process. Free radicals are molecules that damage skin cells and accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin, leading to premature aging. By reducing oxidative stress, licorice extract helps protect the skin’s structure and promote a healthier, more youthful complexion.

2. Skin Lightening and Hyperpigmentation

Licorice root extract is commonly used in skin care products designed to treat dark spots and hyperpigmentation. One of its most powerful attributes is that it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor. Tyrosinase is an enzyme responsible for triggering the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. By inhibiting this enzyme, licorice extract can lighten dark spots and even out skin tone.

For individuals dealing with melasma (a common pigmentation disorder, especially during pregnancy) or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) caused by acne or skin injuries, licorice extract can be an effective treatment. However, results may take 8-16 weeks to become noticeable, so patience is key.

3. Soothes Inflammation and Reduces Redness

Licorice extract contains several anti-inflammatory compounds that can help reduce skin irritation, redness, and sensitivity. This makes it an ideal choice for those dealing with conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or general skin irritation. By calming the skin, licorice root extract can restore balance and improve overall skin health.

4. Acne and Antimicrobial Benefits

The antimicrobial properties of licorice extract make it a useful ingredient in acne treatments. It helps reduce the bacteria that contribute to acne breakouts while also offering anti-inflammatory benefits that soothe inflamed skin. Additionally, licorice extract can help prevent the formation of acne scars by reducing inflammation and aiding in the skin’s healing process.

5. Moisturizing and Skin Hydration

Licorice extract contains a variety of moisturizing fatty acids, which help keep the skin hydrated and soft. This makes it an excellent addition to moisturizers and serums designed to lock in moisture and maintain the skin’s natural barrier. The fatty acids in licorice extract help nourish the skin and keep it smooth and supple.

6. Protects Against Sun Damage

Licorice root extract is packed with antioxidants that help protect the skin from environmental damage, particularly from UV rays and pollution. Some studies suggest that licorice extract can help prevent sun-induced damage and oxidative stress that leads to premature aging and even skin cancer. Additionally, licorice extract can help lighten pigmentation caused by sun exposure and sun spots.

Licorice Extract in Skin Care Products

Licorice extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including:

Anti-aging serums and creams: Thanks to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, it’s frequently included in products aimed at reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and signs of aging.

Moisturizers: Licorice’s ability to hydrate and soothe makes it a great addition to daily moisturizers.

Sunscreens: Due to its protective qualities against UV-induced skin damage, licorice extract is often included in sunscreen formulations.

Facial peels and exfoliants: It can assist in gentle exfoliation and skin rejuvenation, helping to reveal brighter, more even skin.

Skin lighteners: Licorice extract is a common ingredient in products designed to lighten dark spots, melasma, and other pigmentation concerns.

Is Licorice Extract Safe for Use in Skin Care?

For the majority of people, licorice root extract is considered safe for topical use. However, there are some important considerations:

1. Pregnancy and Safety Concerns

Licorice extract contains glabridin, which has been associated with potential teratogenic effects (causing developmental abnormalities in a fetus) when consumed in large amounts. As a result, it is generally advised that pregnant women avoid using products that contain licorice root extract, especially in large quantities. Some studies have suggested that high levels of licorice exposure during pregnancy can affect fetal development, leading to differences in growth, puberty onset, and even cognitive function.

However, there are glabridin-free licorice extract variants available, which may be considered safer for use during pregnancy, but their effectiveness in treating hyperpigmentation is reduced compared to the full version.

2. Allergic Reactions

Although rare, it’s possible for individuals to develop an allergy to licorice extract. Symptoms may include itching, redness, swelling, or irritation. It’s recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying a product containing licorice extract to your face or body.

3. EWG Rating

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) gives licorice root extract a safety score of 5 on a scale from 1 to 10, with 1 being the safest. This score indicates that, while licorice extract is generally safe for most people, there are concerns about its use during pregnancy.

Active Compounds in Licorice Root Extract

Licorice root extract is rich in several bioactive compounds that contribute to its therapeutic properties:

Glabridin: The primary active compound responsible for inhibiting melanin production and treating pigmentation issues.

Glycyrrhizin: A compound known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties.

Liquiritin and Liquiritigenin: Flavonoids that help with hyperpigmentation and skin lightening.

Glycyrrhetinic acid: Known for its soothing effects on the skin, it can also help improve skin elasticity and reduce wrinkles.

Salicylic acid: A mild exfoliant that promotes skin renewal and helps with acne treatment.

These compounds work synergistically to provide a variety of skin benefits, making licorice extract a highly valued ingredient in skincare.

Conclusion: Is Licorice Extract Right for You?

Licorice extract is a versatile and highly beneficial ingredient for many skin types. Whether you’re dealing with hyperpigmentation, acne, signs of aging, or simply looking for an antioxidant-rich moisturizer, licorice extract has much to offer. However, if you are pregnant or have sensitivities to this ingredient, it’s important to use caution.

Before incorporating licorice root extract into your routine, it’s always a good idea to consult with a dermatologist or take a Baumann Skin Type quiz to ensure that the product aligns with your skin’s unique needs and concerns.

With the right application and care, licorice root extract can help you achieve a brighter, more even complexion while providing vital protection against environmental damage.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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