How Many Types Of Hyaluronic Acid Are There?
We have shared with you our love for hyaluronic acid in the past, it is a truly remarkable skincare ingredient that boasts a lot of benefits, such as smoothing out the appearance of fine lines, locking in moisture and giving your skin an overall hydrated and youthful complexion. You can find out more with a full introduction of using this magical ingredient in our dedicated blog post about hyaluronic acid and its skincare benefits over on our blog post.
For now though we will explore how many types of hyaluronic acid there are available, what are the differences between them and how should you use them in your skincare routine. We’ll answer all of these, and any other questions you may have now, so let’s jump right into it.
Is all hyaluronic acid the same?
There are technically three types of hyaluronic acid molecules that are formulated into skincare products:
Hydrolysed hyaluronic acid
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate
Sodium hyaluronate
You may find that your favourite hydrating serum and moisturiser will no doubt include an intense blend of HA molecules in the formulas to give the product maximum effectiveness. All three hyaluronic acid molecules inhabit the same hydrating properties and are humectants, which is basically their superpower. Once you apply them to your skin they have the ability to pull in any moisture from the surrounding environment and absorb it onto your face and locking the moisture into the top layers of the skin.
There are however, some differences between the hyaluronic acid molecules which are added into many skincare products, especially between Hyaluronic acid and Sodium hyaluronate. Both of these are jointly called “hyaluronic acid” within the beauty industry but the key differences are sodium hyaluronate has a smaller molecular size and can penetrate the skin faster. Sodium hyaluronate is in fact the salt form of HA and is a water-soluble meaning it can hold 1000 times its weight in water. This also makes sodium hyaluronate a more stable molecule to add to skincare products due to the fact it is less likely oxidise. There is a setback to this HA as the higher the percentage of it in a formula will actually begin to dry out the skin, bear in mind that anything over 4% of sodium hyaluronate is best to be avoided to prevent any unwanted drying reactions to the skin as too much of it will pull out any moisture it already has. Due to its stability it is used in skincare products along with other HA molecules to make the formula more balanced and effective at hydrating the skin.
Which form of hyaluronic acid is best?
This quite a tricky question to answer as narrowing down the pros and cons of each HA molecule is harder than you would think. The benefit of the three different hyaluronic acids is their ability to mixed well together and work at hydrating the skin, locking in surrounding moisture and keeping its protective barrier functioning properly.
In regards to introducing hyaluronic acid to your skincare routine is a lot more simple than you may think. HA has no age limit and you will see the many anti-ageing and nourishing benefits this hero ingredients provide. If you are over the age of 25 and aren’t seeing any noticeable signs of ageing, by using hyaluronic acid you will delay any visible lines and wrinkles from appearing on the skin. For older people who may have already noticed the signs of ageing on the skin will find that HA not only smooths out the complexion but delays the skin thinning, becoming sensitive and helps with the overall appearance of the face. So as long as your skincare routine contains a product containing hyaluronic acid you are already benefiting with the supercharged hydrating results of this wonderful ingredient.
What percentage of hyaluronic acid is effective?
Technically speaking there is no certain way you are able to get a clear indication of how much percentage of hyaluronic acid is found in a skincare formula. In some cases you may find that in the ingredients list or in the marketing of certain products there are claims of 90% hyaluronic acid, which is not completely accurate. As we have already mentioned before the HA molecule sodium hyaluronate can become very drying to the skin if it is higher than 4%. Products such as serums, moisturisers and cleansers will actually include amounts closer to 1-2% of hyaluronic acid which is mixed into a solution with a high water content. This will not only work on the skin by hydrating the outer layers but will also aid the humectant properties of the HA molecule blend and pull in moisture from the surrounding product applied to the skin. By diluting the percentage you will also have a higher chance of avoiding any drying reactions to the skin and keep its microbiome layer intact and functioning properly meaning any free radicals or other skin damaging factors will not be able to penetrate.
If you are finding that the percentage levels of hyaluronic acid in over the counter skincare products are still not providing the hydration you need seeking the help from a dermatologist will be the next steps to take. Bearing in mind that we also recommend performing a patch test of any new products you add to your daily skincare regime to avoid any reaction.
We hope that you have more clarity of how many different types of hyaluronic acid there are and the effects you can expect to see when using them in the various skincare products and the formulations that deliver the glowing and plumped results when using hyaluronic acid. If you are wanting to know more about hyaluronic, how it works and compares to chemical exfoliants you can find out in the dedicated blog post all about the skincare benefits of AHAs and BHAs.
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DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.