How do Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA) Benefit the Skin?
If you are into skincare then chances are your daily routine contains a selection of active and potent ingredients raging from AHAs, such a glycolic acid, BHAs, retinol and hyaluronic acid. Sure, it can be slightly mind boggling at times, but once you have taken the time to find the right routine for you and your skin there is no turning back.
This leads me onto one of the most recent beauty buzz word that has gained some popularity in the last year, PHA, short for polyhydroxy acids, yep there is a new group of acids in town! But what exactly is different about these acids compared to any others we have used before? How do they benefit the skin? Today is the day we find out more about them, you never know, they could be something your routine has been missing!
What are polyhydroxy acids?
Polyhydroxy acids are chemical exfoliants that contain similar properties of Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) but are considered the second generation of facial acids. The most common found are galactose, lactobionic and gluconolactone acid. PHAs work on the outer layer of the skin exfoliating away the build-up of dead skin cells that are on the surface and help to restore the skin’s overall tone, texture and glow. By removing the dead skin cells you will find that other skincare products, such as serums, when applied to the skin will be more effective and show quicker results. Rich in antioxidants and the ability to aid the production of elastin levels and collagen in the skin PHAs are also able to fight off any free radical damage and premature ageing to the skin.
What does PHA do for your skin?
If you have found your skin to be too sensitive to use other chemical exfoliants in your routine, then PHA may be the missing piece! Known for having a gentle approach to skin exfoliation many with sensitive or very dry skin benefit from skincare products containing PHAs. The main benefits of polyhydroxy acids are;
Gentle enough for sensitive and very dry skin types to use
Can rid the face of dead skin cell build-up that can make the complexion look dull, grey with flaky areas of skin
Sloughed away the barrier of skin cells allowing any other products, such as serums and oils to penetrate quickly and more effectively into the skin
Can help to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin levels in the skin aiding anti-ageing benefits
Enriched in antioxidants that can help combat any free radical damage such as sun exposure, pollution and other environmental aggressors
Gentle enough to not cause photo-sensitivity that can make the skin susceptible to UV damage.
Contain humectants properties to help lock in moisture to the skin
There are just some of the main skin benefits you will find when using PHAs, there are many similarities to AHAs and BHAs however there are some important and impactful differences between these skin ingredients that I will cover now.
How are PHAs different from AHAs and BHAs?
The main difference between PHAs compared to AHAs and BHAs is their molecule size. Unlike some popular acids such as salicylic and glycolic acid PHAs have a very large molecule size, this means they are unable to penetrate too far into the skin. By focusing on the outer layers of the skin PHAs do not cause any irritation or reaction that is often a side effect of AHAs and BHAs, especially when used on a skin type that is too sensitive. With PHAs working without disturbing the deeper layers you will also find that sun exposure will not cause the same level of damage to the skin that can frequently happen when applying AHAs and BHAs. We do, however, still recommend applying a daily SPF 30 to ensure the skin is fully protected from UV damage and signs of premature ageing.
If you are wanting to know more about how the other chemical exfoliants work on your skin, you can check out our guide on the skincare benefits of AHAs and BHAs.
How often should you use PHA?
Although they are considered gentle giants, PHAs are still chemical exfoliating acids, and should be introduced into your routine in the correct way. If you have a particularly sensitive skin type it is advisable to perform a patch test for 24 hours after you have consulted your GP or dermatologist. To start with try using PHAs three times a week in the formula that best suits your routine, such as face cleanser, toner, serum etc. Once your skin has built a tolerance you can use them every day if there are no signs of irritation, remembering of course, to not overuse any exfoliating product as this can lead to the skin becoming stripped of vital oils.
Oily and blemish-prone skin types may benefit from switching their chemical exfoliating toner to one containing PHAs due to its gentle approach and healing properties which will keep the clarity of your complexion, without being too harsh for the skin. Mixing PHAs with other more potent skin ingredients such as retinols, AHAs and BHAs should also be carried out with caution to avoid over stimulating the skin resulting in an overproduction of sebum causing an imbalance to the skin barrier. This imbalance can result in spots, signs of ageing, uneven skin tone and other common skin concerns. Once you have the best cocktail of ingredients you will find your skin will really look its best.
Are PHAs right for my skin?
As previously mentioned, sensitive skin types will truly benefit from PHAs, due to the larger molecule size leading to gentle exfoliation you will find them a great alternative to their more potent cousins AHAs and BHAs. Very dry, flaking and dehydrated skin types will also find the humectants properties of PHAs will help attract water from the surrounding area and lock in moisture to the skin keeping it balanced and calm. Any concerns with eczema and rosacea flare-ups are also known to treated with the help of polyhydroxy acids. If you are finding it hard to figure out exactly which skin type you have, check out our guide to the 4 most common skin types over on the blog.
It is quite remarkable how many benefits PHAs carry and help with all skin types, quite a rare find when it comes to skincare ingredients, especially chemical exfoliants. It makes you wonder how you ever had a daily routine without them.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
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