How to tell if your Vitamin C serum is oxidized?
The benefits of using a Vitamin C serum are endless, and many of us have already incorporated it into our daily routines. Despite the benefits of Vitamin C for the skin, it also has the disadvantage of oxidation, which can cause the ingredient to become less potent and effective in treating the skin. There are many factors to consider when trying to determine if your Vitamin C serum is oxidized. How does it look? What should you do if you find that your product is compromised? How does it affect your skin? We will answer all of these questions today.
How to tell if your Vitamin C serum is oxidized?
Vitamin C is an antioxidant, which means it is a powerful force in keeping your skin healthy and radiant, and protecting it from free radicals and other skin damage. Of all the skin care products available, Vitamin C has the shortest shelf life, as its effectiveness immediately decreases once the product comes into contact with oxygen.
The easiest way to tell if your Vitamin C serum is oxidized is to look at the color. Serums with higher levels of Vitamin C are clear, and the color begins to turn yellow or brown about 3 months after opening. Once this happens, it’s a clear sign that the L-ascorbic acid is losing its effectiveness and, when broken down, turns into erythrulose, which is exactly what you find in self-tanning products and can last up to 7 days. The problem with erythrulose is that it can also cause unnecessary skin damage as it is exacerbated by increased exposure to free radicals, causing your skin to have to regenerate itself.
What Should a Vitamin C Serum Look Like?
As mentioned before, it’s always advisable to choose a Vitamin C serum that looks clear. This shows how high the level of Vitamin C in the formula is and allows you to see if it has been oxidized. While it may be difficult to reconsider your initial opinion that Vitamin C should be orange, some brands have been known to add dyes to their formulas to recreate this orange color. It’s best to choose a colorless product in an opaque sealed bottle so that the Vitamin C stays as fresh as possible and isn’t exposed to too much UV light and oxygen, which can cause it to deteriorate faster.
Is It OK to Use an Oxidized Vitamin C Serum?
Once the product has been opened and used, Vitamin C has a shelf life of about 3 months. After this time, you should expect the formula to start to fade and turn brown. There is nothing wrong with using the rest of the product, especially if there is still more than 10% active vitamin C left. There is concern about how serums react to your skin. It can cause discoloration and irritation, and some people experience breakouts such as spots and acne.
Is oxidized vitamin C bad for your skin?
There is no scientific evidence that oxidized vitamin C has any effect on the skin. However, there are many cases of skin irritation and discoloration due to oxidized L-ascorbic acid turning into the erythrulose ingredient in tanning products. Oxidized vitamin C is no longer a powerful antioxidant and can lead to the production of free radicals, environmental aggressors, and daily aggressors, making the skin vulnerable to damage and making premature signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles visible.
Because the L-ascorbic acid content in the product formula is low or even absent, you may find that vitamin C serums are less effective and have no effect on your complexion.
Can vitamin C serums be used daily?
Compared to other alpha hydroxy acids (also known as AHAs), vitamin C is safe to use daily. It fights skin damage and other stressors, creating a protective layer on the skin as you go about your daily life. Vitamin C serums are very effective in the mornings due to their antioxidant effects. However, many people find that applying them at night gives the AHAs a chance to work, uninterrupted by the daily damage faced during the day.
If you want to learn more about AHAs and their effects on the skin, you can read our blog on the benefits of AHAs and BHAs for skin care.
When should you throw away your vitamin C serum?
If your serum starts to turn yellow, it’s a clear sign that too much air has been mixed into the formula, making the vitamin C less effective. Once the formula shows any discoloration, it’s best to throw the product out completely. Vitamin C is a notoriously difficult ingredient to work with, and it’s not stable in aqueous solutions, making it even harder to determine if the percentage of vitamin C is at active levels and truly benefiting the skin. To ensure it’s treating the skin in the best possible way, it’s best to look in the ink on the packaging to see where the L-ascorbic acid is listed. If it’s below 6, it’s not enough to provide the best results for the skin.
Here are some answers to the most common questions about vitamin C and how to tell if it’s oxidized. There is a very dedicated blog post on the benefits of Vitamin C for skin care that you can check out and get a better idea of the overall benefits and results you will see when applied to your skin.
Here is some more information on Vitamin C. If you have any additional questions, don’t forget to follow us on Instagram. You can reach one of our skin care experts in a private message.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.