How to Use Azelaic Acid Effectively in Skincare Routine

Can Azelaic Acid Be Mixed With Moisturizer?

Azelaic acid has recently gained a lot of attention in the skincare world. While it might not be as famous as retinol or vitamin C, this unsung hero deserves a place in your daily routine.

If you’ve been reading the latest Beauty Insiders blog posts, you’ve likely noticed a rising buzz around this multi-tasking ingredient. But if you haven’t, don’t worry—here’s what you need to know.

What Is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound found in grains like wheat, barley, and rye. It has powerful antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

These properties make it especially effective for treating acne, rosacea, and post-acne pigmentation. It’s also known to help brighten the skin and even out the skin tone.

Over-the-counter products usually contain 10–15% azelaic acid. Stronger concentrations may require a prescription from a dermatologist.

Azelaic acid can be found in creams, gels, serums, and even cleansers. It’s gentle but effective, making it suitable for sensitive skin types as well.

Before starting a new product, especially one with active ingredients, always consult your dermatologist. This helps avoid irritation or side effects.

For a deep dive into how azelaic acid works, check out our full blog post dedicated to it. Now, let’s explore how it fits into your daily routine.

How to Use Azelaic Acid With a Moisturizer

Azelaic acid works best when layered with other products in the correct order. The order matters because it affects absorption and effectiveness.

Start your routine by washing your face thoroughly with a gentle cleanser suited for your skin type. This clears away dirt, oil, and makeup.

After cleansing, apply a mild toner if desired—something with soothing ingredients like chamomile or rose water works well here.

Next, use a serum with hyaluronic acid. This step helps retain surface moisture and prepares the skin to absorb the next layers better.

Once your skin has absorbed the hyaluronic acid, apply your azelaic acid product. This can be a serum or cream, depending on your preference.

Finally, seal everything in with a moisturizer. This step helps lock in hydration and protect the skin barrier from environmental damage.

If you’re using this routine in the morning, don’t forget SPF 30 or higher. Azelaic acid can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight.

This step-by-step routine is highly effective. However, everyone’s skin is different, so you may need to make slight adjustments to match your skin’s needs.

Why a Moisturizer Is Still Important

Many people misunderstand what a moisturizer does. Unlike a serum, a moisturizer doesn’t penetrate deeply into the skin.

Instead, it works on the skin’s outer layer to provide hydration and prevent water loss. It creates a physical barrier to shield your skin.

This barrier helps protect the skin from free radicals, pollution, and UV rays. That’s why it’s an essential step in your routine, even if your skin isn’t dry.

If you want to target specific concerns like aging or hyperpigmentation, use a serum for that. A moisturizer supports, but doesn’t replace, treatment products.

Do I Apply Azelaic Acid Before or After Moisturizer?

This is a common question, and the answer depends on the product’s consistency and your personal routine. But here’s a general rule of thumb.

Apply azelaic acid before your moisturizer. This ensures the acid is absorbed directly by the skin and can work more effectively.

If you use a hyaluronic acid serum, apply that first. Hyaluronic acid will draw moisture into the skin and reduce the drying effects of azelaic acid.

After azelaic acid, follow with your moisturizer. This layering process helps each ingredient work to its fullest potential without clashing.

Using your products in this order also reduces the risk of dryness, redness, or irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin.

Can You Mix Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide?

Yes, you can absolutely use azelaic acid and niacinamide together. In fact, they make an excellent skincare duo.

Niacinamide is known for its soothing and hydrating properties. It also helps to refine pores and improve the overall texture of the skin.

When paired with azelaic acid, it enhances the treatment of acne, blemishes, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

This combo works especially well for those dealing with breakouts, dark spots, or uneven skin tone. Together, they tackle both inflammation and discoloration.

Niacinamide also strengthens the skin’s barrier, which can help reduce the sensitivity that sometimes comes with using active ingredients.

Can I Use Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid?

Yes, but not necessarily at the same time. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its deep pore-cleansing properties.

Azelaic acid works more gently on the skin but still helps clear pores and reduce inflammation. If you want to use both, alternate them.

For example, use azelaic acid in the morning and salicylic acid at night, or switch them on alternate days.

This helps avoid over-exfoliation and irritation, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin. It’s all about finding the right balance.

Even better, use both during your nighttime routine when your skin is in repair mode and not exposed to sun or pollution.

Which Comes First: Niacinamide or Azelaic Acid?

When using both niacinamide and azelaic acid, apply niacinamide first. It hydrates the skin and prepares it to better absorb the azelaic acid.

This layering order helps minimize irritation and ensures deeper penetration of the active ingredients.

Stick to the general rule: apply skincare products in order from thinnest to thickest. Start with water-based serums, then heavier creams or lotions.

Following this rule will help you get the best results from your routine. The right order also avoids product buildup or pilling.

Should You Apply Azelaic Acid to Wet or Dry Skin?

Unlike hyaluronic acid, which should be applied to damp skin to lock in moisture, azelaic acid works best on dry or slightly damp skin.

Applying azelaic acid to wet skin can increase the chances of irritation. Wait a few minutes after cleansing so your face is mostly dry.

After your skin is semi-dry, apply your hyaluronic acid serum first if you use one. Then follow with your azelaic acid product.

Finish with a moisturizer to seal in the hydration and keep your skin barrier protected. This also helps to avoid redness or dryness.

Key Takeaways

Azelaic acid is a gentle yet powerful ingredient for acne, rosacea, and skin brightening.

Always apply it before your moisturizer to allow better absorption.

It can be used safely with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and even salicylic acid if spaced properly.

Moisturizers don’t treat skin concerns directly but are essential for hydration and barrier protection.

Use sunscreen daily when using active ingredients like azelaic acid, especially during daytime routines.

Final Thoughts

Adding azelaic acid to your skincare routine can be a game-changer. It’s versatile, effective, and works well with other ingredients.

With the right layering technique, you can reduce acne, fade dark spots, and improve your skin’s overall clarity and health.

Everyone’s skin is unique, so take time to adjust your routine. Keep an eye on how your skin responds and consult a dermatologist if needed.

Looking to upgrade your skincare lineup? Give azelaic acid a try—it just might become your new favorite.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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