How to Use Azelaic Acid for Rosacea?
If you have skin issues like rosacea, then it’s natural to be cautious about using any old ingredient in your daily skincare routine. The beauty of azelaic acid is that it has anti-inflammatory properties, which means it can reduce redness and soothe the skin. It is able to reach the lower layers and prevent future redness and other levels of rosacea severity. With that in mind, let’s explore how to use azelaic acid for rosacea.
How long does it take for azelaic acid to work for rosacea?
Before we discuss how long does azelaic acid take to work for rosacea, let me first cover what azelaic acid is and how it benefits the skin.
Azelaic Acid
The chemical name for azelaic acid is dicarboxylic acid, and it’s a natural extract from barley, wheat, and rye. Thanks to modern technology, keeping this powerful yet gentle acid at effective and stable levels has become the norm, and you can expect to see this clever ingredient used more and more frequently in various skincare formulas.
Often mistakenly considered a member of the alpha hydroxy acid group, azelaic acid offers the same exfoliating and purifying benefits as the other acids while being gentle on the skin and acting as a powerful antioxidant. It is typically found in concentrations between 15% and 20%, although lower percentages have been known to produce impressive results on the skin. However, if you suffer from a skin condition such as rosacea, it is important to find the right formula to ensure there are no signs of irritation or sensitivity.
Key Benefits of Azelaic Acid
Fights breakouts, including pimples, blackheads, and frequent breakouts
Reduces the appearance and severity of rosacea
Exfoliates to remove dead skin cell buildup for a brighter complexion
Reduces signs of dark spots and hyperpigmentation
Does Azelaic Acid Make Rosacea Worse?
Rich in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, azelaic acid has earned its reputation for being able to penetrate deep into the underlying layers of the skin to reduce redness and irritation for longer-lasting results. As with all acids, especially chemical peels, you have to find the right formula first, as it’s hard to find azelaic acid concentrates at 10% or less, which means that many products with higher percentages can compromise the consistency of the formula because it becomes very grainy. This can be a problem for people with rosacea, as the physical disruption to the skin can lead to increased redness and flaky patches on the face.
When should azelaic acid be used routinely?
There are many products that contain azelaic acid, and all produce equally impressive results. You can find products like serums and moisturizers. Whatever formula you choose, it’s important to understand how it works for you and your skin type.
Whether it’s an over-the-counter or prescription product, it’s best to apply a thin layer to the surface of your skin, especially if it’s a new ingredient you’re adding to your routine. Once your skin has developed a tolerance to azelaic acid, you can use it morning and night without worrying about a lasting reaction. Still, it’s best to consult a doctor or dermatologist before trying a new skincare product to avoid any adverse reactions. Once you’ve decided that azelaic acid is a perfect fit for your routine, you can optimize the results by using a serum or cream product after using an exfoliating toner containing an AHA or BHA, such as glycolic or salicylic acid. This way, you’ll eliminate the barrier created by the layer of dead skin cells, allowing the azelaic acid to penetrate deeper into the skin. Don’t forget to follow up with a moisturizer enriched with hyaluronic acid and with an SPF of 30 or higher.
What shouldn’t you mix with azelaic acid?
Since azelaic acid is one of the gentler facial acids, you can combine it with more ingredients. However, that doesn’t mean you can safely use them with anything. Here’s a list of ingredients you should be aware of when mixing with azelaic acid.
Azelaic acid and salicylic acid (BHA)
If you want to combine these ingredients without worrying about skin irritation, consider using products that complement each other. For example, if you want to use a serum enriched with azelaic acid, choose a toner that contains BHA, salicylic acid. Not only will this allow the azelaic acid to penetrate the skin better, it will also allow you to leave enough time between applications to avoid allergies. Of course, keep in mind that if you have dry or sensitive skin that’s prone to rosacea and similar breakouts, it’s best to avoid salicylic acid in your routine altogether.
Azelaic Acid and Vitamin C
These two ingredients have a reputation for being unstable in formulas. You might think the two don’t go together, but if you introduce them into your routine correctly, you’ll really benefit from these skincare powerhouses. If I were to suggest anything, it would be to use a vitamin C serum first thing in the morning and then an azelaic acid moisturizer at night.
Azelaic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid
Luckily, hyaluronic acid can be combined with any skincare ingredient without worrying about irritation. If you’re prone to rosacea, this combination is actually the most beneficial. The moisture that hyaluronic acid provides to the skin helps soothe the outer surface and allows the azelaic acid to work its magic in peace, with little to no side effects, but a healthy, balanced, and radiant complexion.
Can Azelaic Acid be Used Daily?
You can actually do this! In fact, you can use it twice a day, morning and night, in your routine. If you want to learn more about azelaic acid and its benefits for your skin, check out our dedicated blog post all about this clever ingredient and how it can affect your complexion, especially if you suffer from rosacea.
You can learn more about using azelaic acid to treat rosacea here. As I mentioned before, always consult a doctor or dermatologist for the health of your skin. Once you better understand how this ingredient can benefit your skin, you’ll be amazed at how your complexion improves.
Don’t forget: If you love skin, check out our new YouTube channel, The Green Sofa. We’ll save a spot for you, and follow us on Instagram if you have any additional questions.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.