How to Use Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid

How to Use Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid

Since the beauty industry is a busy hub filled with must-try formulas and hero ingredients reign supreme, you’ll find that some ingredients tend to fly under the radar. But today we’re going to take a look at azelaic acid and niacinamide and how they can be used together in your daily skincare routine. Hopefully, as we introduce you to these two skin heroes, you’ll wonder how you ever got through your daily life without them!

If you’re reading this right now and wondering what exactly are azelaic acid and niacinamide? Then this next section is for you!

What Does Niacinamide Do for Skin?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that is beneficial for all skin types due to its moisturizing properties. This means that niacinamide attracts and locks in moisture to the skin, keeping the skin’s protective barrier fully functioning. When the skin barrier has the right amount of water and oil, it prevents further damage to the skin caused by free radicals such as exposure to pollution, UV rays, and other environmental aggressors. Niacinamide also has the benefit of being able to regulate the skin’s sebum production, which means it can help restore a balanced and clear complexion.

What Does Azelaic Acid Do for Skin?

It’s extracted from various grains like barley, wheat, and rye, and is often used in exfoliating products. Often mistakenly considered a member of the AHA family, azelaic acid has cell-communicating abilities that “tell” surface skin cells how to operate, helping to produce a smoother, more vibrant complexion over time. It fights signs of hyperpigmentation and reduces visible fine lines and wrinkles; it can also help relieve flare-ups of rosacea. Not only does azelaic acid work well for skin, it also increases photosensitivity, so always keep a daily SPF of 30 or higher.

Can Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid Be Used Together?

You actually can. You’ll find that niacinamide and azelaic acid form a powerful, skin-perfecting duo. Azelaic acid removes surface buildup of dead skin cells, bacteria, and impurities, while niacinamide helps improve hydration and restore the skin barrier to its healthiest state.

When it comes to formulas, you’ll find niacinamide and azelaic acid in products like serums, face oils, and moisturizers. This is an important point to remember, as these products are typically left on the skin longer. This usually results in a higher percentage of effectiveness for each ingredient, which means you can usually see results faster. However, this means a higher risk of irritation and other skin reactions. Therefore, it’s important to do a patch test on your skin ahead of time to avoid this.

If you want to learn more about using niacinamide and azelaic acid together, read our dedicated blog post.

Should I use niacinamide before azelaic acid?

Firstly, it depends on the products that each ingredient is formulated with. As I mentioned in my previous post, applying skincare products from the thinnest to the thickest products allows each product to absorb into the skin. If I were to share my personal thoughts with you, I would recommend using an azelaic acid-rich serum first, followed by a moisturizer with niacinamide.

By applying an azelaic acid formula first, you are removing the barrier that has been created by the buildup of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin and revealing the new skin underneath. Once you apply niacinamide, you’ll have the peace of mind that you’ll maintain the overall healthy and glowing appearance of your skin and won’t see any signs of irritation.

What Not to Mix with Niacinamide?

With its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, there are many skincare ingredients that can be combined with niacinamide. With its moisturizing properties, it helps keep the skin hydrated, soothed, and balanced, making it an ideal team partner for all the other more potent ingredients, such as AHAs like glycolic acid or BHAs like salicylic acid.

As for skincare ingredients that shouldn’t be mixed with niacinamide, vitamin C can produce similar effects, and using them together may cause the two ingredients to cancel each other out, rendering them both useless to the skin. Still, you can use a vitamin C-rich serum in the morning and a niacinamide serum at night to reap the benefits without any side effects.

Does Azelaic Acid Detoxify?

Yes, it does, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Azelaic acid can speed up skin cell turnover and cause breakouts on the face. This simply means that the azelaic acid is doing its job, clearing the skin of excess sebum, dead skin cells, impurities, and bacteria, which can cause more problems in the long run. Keep in mind that if these breakouts are accompanied by discomfort, itching, rashes, or flaking, it’s a sign that the azelaic acid is too harsh for your skin and you should discontinue use immediately. Keep in mind that if you have concerns about adding azelaic acid to your routine, it’s best to consult with a doctor or dermatologist to make sure it’s the best ingredient for you and your skin.

Does Azelaic Acid Help Get Rid of Acne Scars?

Because azelaic acid helps with skin turnover, you’ll find that it can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and lighten dark spots that are often caused by acne scars. As dead skin cells slough off, dark spots will lighten over time and become less visible to the naked eye. To prevent further sun damage and melanin overproduction, it’s best to remember to apply a sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher every day to prevent further damage from occurring.

Should I moisturize before or after using azelaic acid?

Because moisturizers have a thick consistency, it’s best to use them later in your routine. Another benefit of moisturizers is that they contain a lot of water, which can help keep the surface of the skin hydrated and plump once applied to the skin.They also form a protective barrier over the outer layer, ensuring that any active ingredients or serums you apply before can work their magic without being disrupted by free radicals (such as UV rays, pollution, and other environmental influences).

Whether you use Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid alone or together, you’ll find that they work together to provide an overall soothing, hydrating, and energizing double whammy for your skin. As always, if you’re not familiar with these ingredients, I recommend consulting your doctor or healthcare professional.

If you have any questions or are just into skincare, follow us on Instagram and don’t forget to check out our latest episode of The Green Sofa on our YouTube channel.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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