Today, niacinamide is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare for a number of reasons. In this article, we’ll take a look at the various benefits of niacinamide for the skin, what’s in a serum, and how to use it, according to a respected board-certified dermatologist.
What is niacinamide? Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin that’s essential for overall body and skin health. As nationally recognized dermatologist Dr. Davin Lim explains, niacinamide is considered a very flexible active ingredient, explaining that it’s actually one of the easiest vitamins to use in skin care because it’s paired with vitamin C A (aka. It has a high tolerability rating and a very low frequency of side effects, even comparable to vitamin C (retinol).
Niacinamide serums are a great way to incorporate the many skin benefits of niacinamide into your daily skincare routine, as the serum (due to its lightweight formula) contains a high concentration of the active ingredient that can be released into the skin to specifically treat specific skin concerns.
What are the benefits of niacinamide for the skin? According to nationally recognized dermatologist Dr. Shereen Idriss, topical niacinamide can perform many different functions in the skin, such as:
Therefore, it is important to keep the skin intact and tightly bound by keratin to maintain the skin’s immune function and better protect us from external influences. Improves lipid barrier function:
Niacinamide can also increase the production of ceramides.
Ceramides are lipids that act as intercellular “glue,” holding skin cells together and keeping the skin soft and hydrated. Increased ceramide production allows the skin to retain its natural moisture, which can help treat certain conditions such as eczema.
Anti-inflammatory effects: Niacinamide has been shown to reduce the production of several mediators and molecules involved in the inflammatory process [1]. Therefore, it is suitable for acne patients with inflammatory
bumps and acne.
In addition, niacinamide can help reduce redness, which Dr. Lindane may be beneficial for people with rosacea. Regulates oil secretion: 2% Niacinamide has been shown to control the secretion and excretion of sebum, which is responsible for facial shine and the formation of acne.
Helps Even Skin Tone: There is evidence that niacinamide may be a potent compound that inhibits the transfer of melanin granules, also known as melanosomes, from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
While niacinamide alone may not be effective in combating hyperpigmentation, Dr. Shereene Idriss says it can enhance the effects of other ingredients like vitamin C, kojic acid, and arbutin to even out skin tone.
Anti-aging effects: Niacinamide has the potential to boost collagen synthesis in the skin and inhibit its breakdown, thereby providing a firming effect, improving surface texture, and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. So what can niacinamide be used for?
Due to its numerous proven biological functions in the skin, niacinamide may be suitable for all skin types to treat different skin concerns. Certified dermatologists use it for: Acne-prone skin and oily skin.
What is the optimal concentration to apply? Now that you know its many benefits and uses, you might think that the higher the concentration of niacinamide in your serum, the better, right? We tell you that this is not true.
Niacinamide serums come in concentrations ranging from 2% to 20%, with 10% being the most common. Nationally recognized dermatologist Dr. Jenny Liu, however, notes that most of niacinamide’s benefits have been demonstrated at lower concentrations of 2% to 5%, with no studies showing any real benefit at higher concentrations.
In fact, Dr. Shereene Idris notes that “more isn’t enough,” and serums above 5% (like those in 10% formulas) can cause irritation, inflammation, and breakouts—all skin concerns you really want to treat.
In that order, most board-certified dermatologists recommend niacinamide serums with concentrations between 2% and 5%. Additionally, you can look for serums that already combine niacinamide with other ingredients to minimize the number of products you use to treat a specific skin concern, such as Dr. Shereene Idris recommends.
Dr. Shereene Idriss believes that these 10% serums are formulated with 1% zinc (like regular niacinamide serums), which acts as an anti-inflammatory agent, greatly reducing the inflammatory potential of niacinamide.
How to use a niacinamide serum properly? The great thing about niacinamide is that, according to Dr. Davin Lim, it combines well with most ingredients in skincare, such as retinol and vitamin C. In this regard, niacinamide serums can be used with other skincare products without any incompatibility.
– Should you use it in the morning or at night? It can be used in the morning and/or at night, but most people prefer to use niacinamide serums at night, which is what Dr. Davin Lim recommends.
– How is it applied? If you are new to niacinamide serums, Dr. Shereene Idriss recommends starting with one daily application to see how your skin reacts to this new product.
In your skincare routine, products should be used in a specific order. For a basic skincare routine, serums should be applied after cleansing and before moisturizing (in the morning or evening). Why in this order?
Nationally recognized dermatologist Dr. Muneeb Shah divides skin care into three phases:
1. Cleansing: It is important to remove dirt, sweat, oil, and impurities so that your skin remains clear and can enjoy the benefits of skincare products and active ingredients.
2. Treatment: This step uses serums rich in active ingredients to target your skin’s specific concerns.
3. Protect: In this step, moisturizer is applied to prevent moisture loss from the skin, followed by sunscreen (AM step) to protect the skin from UV rays. Niacinamide works on the skin during the treatment phase and then seals it with a layer of moisture, he explains. Conclusion: Niacinamide has been shown to be an excellent multifunctional active ingredient for all skin types, and can alleviate a wide range of skin concerns if well tolerated. While the hype is justified, it is important to know that concentration plays a key role, and dermatologists recommend choosing serums with concentrations between 2% and 5% to reap the most benefits from niacinamide without the risk of an inflammatory response. Scientific evidence supports its effectiveness and safety.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
