Hydration vs. Moisturization: A Dermatologist Explains the Difference
Imagine this: You wake up and your skin feels painfully dry. Or is it dehydrated? It can be hard to tell, just as it can be hard to determine whether you need hydration or moisturization. Although the words may seem like synonyms, they are very different in the world of skin care. It can all be very confusing. That’s why we asked two board-certified dermatologists—Lindsey Zubritsky, MD, and Kenneth Mark, MD—to break it down for us.
Read on to learn the key differences between hydration and moisturization (and find out how to determine what your skin needs).
What does it mean to hydrate your skin?
Hydration of the skin means increasing its water content. Imagine hydrating your skin like taking a refreshing sip of water from a Stanley cup to quench your thirst. To do this, Zubritsky recommends looking for ingredients that attract and retain water. “This typically affects the outermost layer of the skin, plumping it up,” she explains.
What does it mean to hydrate your skin?
Moisturizing focuses on improving and strengthening the skin barrier, Zubritsky explains, which typically leaves skin feeling soft and supple. It also helps lock moisture into the skin.
Mark believes that hydration and hydration are not mutually exclusive. However, when we think of the typical “moisturizer,” we think of products that smooth or soften the skin.
Determine what your skin needs
The key to deciding next steps is to determine whether your skin is dry or dehydrated, Zubritsky says. “If your skin is dehydrated, then your skin is lacking water and may need hydrating ingredients to replenish moisture,” she says. “But if your skin is dry, your skin is lacking oil and may need a moisturizer to replenish moisture.”
“However, these are not always mutually exclusive and there is significant overlap, especially when it comes to the symptoms you experience and the moisturizer you choose,” she continues. Dry skin may have a rough texture, flake, redness, or itchiness. Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, can feel tight, look dull, and make fine lines and wrinkles more noticeable.
To determine if your skin is dehydrated, she recommends doing the pinch test. “Gently pinch the skin on your cheeks or hands. If the skin is slow to return to normal, it’s likely dehydrated.”
How to moisturize your skin
“When moisturizing your skin, it’s important to pay attention to ingredients such as humectants,” advises Zubritsky. Humectants attract and absorb water (usually from the environment) and are found in serums or moisturizers. Mark and Zubritsky highlight hyaluronic acid as one of the best humectants for hydrated, plump skin. “One of my favorites is Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Cream ($20),” says Zubritsky. “It contains hyaluronic acid, which delivers nine times more moisture than untreated skin. It really leaves skin looking hydrated, plump, radiant, and dewy.”
“Another of my favorite ingredients is lactic acid, which acts as a humectant to increase the water content of the skin,” adds Mark. Additionally, lactic acid — an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) — is also ideal for gentle exfoliation without irritating those with sensitive skin.
How to moisturize your skin
“When moisturizing your skin, look for ingredients that strengthen and support the skin barrier, such as emollients or occlusive ingredients,” advises Zubritzky. She recommends ingredients like ceramides, dimethicone, shea butter, lanolin, or petrolatum. “One of my favorite moisturizers is Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream Enriching Moisturizer ($72),” she tells us. “It’s a rich, luxurious moisturizer with dimethicone, squalane, and antioxidants to lock in moisture.”
“In the world of ingredients and dermatology, carriers are important,” says Mark. “Very dry, cracked skin often requires an ointment with occlusive physical barrier protection, such as Aquaphor Ointment ($18).”
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
