Skin care is never easy for many of us. It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed when you stroll down the aisles of Boots and see everything from AHAs to antioxidant serums, and don’t even get me started on retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoids. Because I’m a beauty writer, I signed up to get into the details of each ingredient. But no matter how many products I choose and try, I always end up choosing variations of the same three. Look: CSA. What is a CSA skincare routine? The CSA skincare philosophy is pioneered by skincare brand Medik8, and in my opinion, it’s the perfect routine. It revolves around the use of vitamin C, SPF and vitamin A (also known as retinol), hence the abbreviation CSA. However, the CSA skincare routine is nothing new. Medik8 first introduced this method in 2009 and has been using it ever since, making skin care a lot easier for many people. So far, it seems to be working.
“These three steps show the importance of reducing the number of skincare products you buy and taking a more practical approach to skincare,” explains dermatologist Sonia Khorana. According to No7, 75% of women only use one-third of their skincare routine, which can be good for our faces and our finances.
“I often talk about the benefits of ‘dermaplaning’ and how you don’t need a 10-step skincare routine to see the benefits,” adds Dr. Sonia, and I can’t help but agree.
My bathroom shelves may be stacked with lotions and potions (many of which are great), but my must-haves make up a small percentage and they almost always fall under those three letters.
Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a buy from my desert island beauty. “First and foremost, it’s a powerful antioxidant,” explains Daniel Isaacs, head of research at Medik8.
Daniel explains that vitamin C neutralises harmful free radicals from the sun and environment, preventing them from attacking skin cells and causing signs of skin damage.
It’s been about a year since I started using a few drops of Medik8 C-Tetra Luxe (£59) every morning, and my face has never looked brighter, smoother or more even-toned. It makes sense, because Dr. Sonia explains that vitamin C “helps improve pigmentation and uneven skin tone, rebuild collagen, and protect the skin from environmental stressors and damage.”
When used in combination, it can even boost the effectiveness of your sunscreen. SPF: We’re all aware of the importance of sunscreen, so it’s undoubtedly the most important step in any skincare routine. “Sunscreen should be applied every day to protect against UV rays,” explains Daniel.
“Particularly long-wave UVA rays, which are present all year round and can penetrate clouds and glass. So yes, even if you’re sitting at a table by a window, you might want to invest in a broad-spectrum sunscreen with sun protection.” High SPF. Wear
Broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Personally, I still have to make an effort to use sunscreen. Whether you’re working from home or commuting to the office on the tube, it can seem like a pointless step to spend the day indoors. But experts say that’s not the case.
So it’s important to find a product that’s actually fun to wear. Excellent! Mattescreen, £34, is my favourite, but I usually replace it after every use. Also try Inkey List Polyglutamate Dewy Sunscreen SPF30, £14.99, and Medik8
Advanced Daytime Ultimate Protection SPF50 PA++++, £59.
Vitamin A: The third and final step in the CSA concept is vitamin A, also known as retinol, which Dr. Sonia describes as a “skin superhero that can help rebuild collagen, fade pigmentation, address textural imperfections and improve oil control.” People’s love for this ingredient seems limitless, but it has some downsides. Swelling of the skin (in the form of breakouts), redness and dry skin are all side effects of retinol. But Medik8 has options for almost every skin type, even the most sensitive. Full instructions can be found here. “The motto at Medik8 is: go slow, go slow,” says Daniel, who recommends using a low concentration of retinol. Retinal belongs to the retinoid family and works faster than the classic form of retinol. “There is a ton of published research to support its effectiveness,” says Daniel, who acknowledges that Retinal has collagen-boosting properties. He adds that it can rejuvenate the skin and give it a more even tone and texture.
Daniel compares it to prescription skin care, which is only available from a dermatologist. Slowly work the ingredients into your skin so as not to overwhelm it. Daniel recommends using an encapsulated Retinal like Medik8’s
0.03% Crystal Retinal, £49.
Encapsulation usually means the Retinal is wrapped in moisturising ingredients like skin-loving oils, making it a better choice for those with sensitive skin. Medik8 also means the Retinal isn’t from the environment, making it more effective.
Use twice a week in the evenings for the first two weeks, then every other night for the next two weeks to prepare for nighttime use. Once your skin accepts the molecule without irritation, you can switch to a higher strength to maximise results.
Following a recommendation about six months ago, I now use Medik8 0.06% Crystal Retinal, £66, twice a week and my skin has never looked better. The fine lines that were starting to form have been reduced, my bumpy texture has been smoothed out and my pores are less noticeable than before.
Retinol serum, £21. Final thoughts It took me years to find a skincare routine that not only works but takes less than five minutes morning and night, and I think I’ve finally nailed it with this three-step process. The only products not included in the CSA method are cleanser and either a night cream (I’m currently using the new No7 Future Renew Night Cream, £34) or an eye cream.
If you want to include the latter, it could definitely fall into the vitamin C or even retinol category, especially if you’re fully committed to the cause. Of course, any skincare brand will do, no matter your budget. So what about other skincare products? Well, you don’t have to throw out your hyaluronic acid serum just yet. “In my opinion, these three ingredients (CSAs) are absolutely must-haves for any skincare routine, and you can supplement them based on your specific skin concerns,” explains Dr. Sonia. “If someone has acne-prone skin, they may need to add a toner or salicylic acid product to address their concerns,” she adds.
Similarly, someone with very dry skin may need to use a rich moisturizer before applying sunscreen or after applying retinol. “Someone with rosacea-prone skin may need less vitamin A,” adds Dr. Sonia, adding that for dull skin, some may want to use a glycolic acid product instead of retinol. Here’s how to tweak the three-step process to suit your needs. If a simple yet effective skincare routine is on your wish list this season, it goes to show that sometimes less is more.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
