I Still Have Blackheads—Does This Mean My Cleanser Isn’t Working?
You’ve got the perfect five-step skincare routine in place, an encyclopedic knowledge of which ingredients to use (and which to avoid), and you never go to bed with your makeup on. You’re doing everything right. And yet there they are, clear as day, staring back at you in the mirror: blackheads.
To be clear: There’s nothing wrong or shameful about having blackheads or other forms of acne. But when you’ve been fighting breakouts but don’t feel like you’re winning the battle, it’s natural to want to find out if there’s a weak spot in your arsenal—maybe like your cleansing products. We asked board-certified dermatologists Kseniya Kohets, MD, and Nazanin Saedi, MD, to break down everything from the causes of blackheads to how to tell if a cleanser is working and how to choose the best cleanser for your skin type. Read on to find out what they told us.
Meet the Experts
Kseniya Kobets, MD, MHS, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in Westchester, NY.
Nazanin Saedi, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Plymouth Meeting Dermatology in Philadelphia.
What causes blackheads?
In simple terms, blackheads are clogged pores. “Blackheads are pores filled with excess oil, keratin, and makeup that, when exposed to air, turn black due to oxidation,” says Corbetts. “Excess oil production clogs pores, leading to various forms of acne, including blackheads,” Saedi explains. “The black discoloration is not caused by dirt, but by a chemical reaction between the clogged oil and the air.”
Blackheads typically appear as small black dots on and around the nose, usually in the T-zone, but can also appear on the chest, back, or ears.
Here’s How to Tell If Your Cleanser Is Too Weak
If your current skincare routine isn’t effectively clearing up blackheads and acne, it may be time to rethink your ingredients and consistency. However, before you decide your cleanser is too gentle and resort to something harsher, remember that stronger products aren’t always the solution. Kobets tells us that while feeling “squeaky clean” after cleansing can be satisfying, over-cleansing can dry out the skin and damage its barrier and microbiome.
“A consistent skincare routine with anti-acne ingredients is the best way to get clear skin,” says Saedi. Opt for products with restorative ingredients like glycerin, ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and botanicals to soothe the skin and support a healthy microbiome.
What to look for in a cleansing product
According to Kobets, there are three key elements to consider when it comes to products that eliminate blackheads:
Formula: For oily skin, a foaming cleanser is ideal (although she advises caution with these formulas, as overuse can dry out the skin and damage the barrier and microbiome). Dry skin types may benefit from a hydrating cleanser.
Benzoyl peroxide: She recommends using benzoyl peroxide to remove excess oil, dirt, and makeup from oil glands. Be sure to use white towels in your skincare routine (this ingredient can bleach fabrics) and avoid expired products, as they can be irritants.
Consider salicylic acid: This is a top ingredient for preventing and treating blackheads. “This beta-hydroxy acid is lipophilic (fat-loving) and can penetrate deep into pores to remove oil,” she explains. “It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can improve skin tone and pigmentation.”
Kobets warns against using benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid at the same time to avoid irritation. If you also use a topical retinoid, be careful not to mix it with other active ingredients.
Berdie Tips
First, incorporate benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid into your routine a few times a week, especially if you have sensitive skin.
More Tips for Treating Blackheads
Use a retinoid: “Using a retinoid daily can help,” Kobets says. Plus, “it can often be combined with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to reduce greasiness and pore size,” she adds.
Watch your moisturizer: Kobets also recommends cutting back on heavy moisturizers, especially those with dimethicone, as they can cause oil buildup and constipation.
Try a topical treatment: “Topical treatments for acne can also be helpful—just make sure to use them as directed,” she adds.
Consider light therapy: Another option is blue and red light therapy masks, which can help clear active acne and reduce redness and inflammation with regular use. “These masks are an expensive proposition, so only invest if you’re really committed,” Saedi advises.
Book an in-office treatment: Depending on the severity of your acne, you may also opt for in-office treatments, such as a hydrofacial, chemical peels, or laser treatments, to reduce oil production and improve skin texture.
Conclusion
It’s easy to over (or under) your skincare routine in an effort to remove blackheads. But it’s important not to lose sight of the goal: “The goal is to cleanse the skin and remove excess oil while maintaining the skin barrier,” Saedi advises. If blackheads persist despite your best efforts, she recommends consulting a dermatologist for a customized acne treatment plan. She also reminds us that acne is a normal skin condition, and treating it takes time and persistence. “Effective acne treatment requires patience,” she says. “But with proper care, you can keep them under control.”
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
