Is it OK to use Kojic Acid and Azelaic Acid?
When it comes to skincare ingredients, there are some that are so popular that it seems like everyone is using them every day. On the other hand, there are some active ingredients that are hiding in the beauty industry but are not yet well known or well-known. Today’s blog post focuses on two underdogs: Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid. What exactly do these ingredients do for the skin and how can they be used together?
In the next section, we will explain the benefits of these ingredients and how to effectively incorporate them into your daily skincare routine.
What is Kojic Acid?
Kojic acid is one of the lesser-known chemical peels in the AHA family. It is a byproduct of various mushrooms and fermented foods such as soy sauce, rice wine, and sake. It has the ability to block tyrosine, which is responsible for the production of melanin. This makes kojic acid one of the most effective bleaching and whitening acids. Those who are concerned about sun damage, age spots, hyperpigmentation, and melasma areas. You will find that kojic acid is also an effective ingredient in fighting breakouts and acne due to its antibacterial properties. Kojic acid is very effective for fighting acne and hyperpigmentation, but you may find that it causes increased skin irritation, especially if you have a skin type that is dry and prone to sensitivity. Due to its high potency, kojic acid is available in a variety of formulas at concentrations of 1% or less. Such a high percentage means that this active ingredient can work effectively when applied to the skin (primarily the hands and face) occasionally for a short period of time. Depending on the product formulation will determine how kojic acid is applied to the skin. Certain formulations such as soaps, cleansers, and face washes contain effective amounts of the acid, which should be rinsed off the skin immediately. Kojic acid has limited effectiveness in products that are left on the skin for a long time because it is poorly absorbed into the lower layers of the skin.
If you want to learn more about kojic acid, here are some important facts about kojic acid that you can learn from beauty insiders.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Often confused with AHAs, this dicarboxylic acid is derived from grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. With antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, azelaic acid is an active ingredient for fighting acne, uneven skin texture, hyperpigmentation, and more.
Azelaic acid dissolves the top layer of skin as well as accumulated dead skin cells, dirt, bacteria, and other impurities. All of these can lead to skin imperfections like blackheads, flaky patches, and premature signs of aging, which in turn can be exacerbated by making fine lines and wrinkles more visible.
Azelaic acid is considered one of the gentlest acids and can be used effectively by people with sensitive skin. Azelaic acid also has unique properties that make it particularly effective for people with darker skin tones. The powerful acid fights pigmentation on dark or dark skin without the added risk of sensitivity and irritation. For more information on azelaic acid, visit Beauty Insider where we have a blog post on the benefits of azelaic acid, what it does for the skin, and the best ingredients to use with it. Can kojic acid and azelaic acid be used together? Yes, but only if they are applied to the skin correctly. Both acids have similar pH levels, with the more acidic acid altering the skin’s natural pH, causing irritation and weakening the skin barrier, which can lead to skin damage. Kojic acid and azelaic acid are used differently. Here are examples of effective combinations. Wait about 30 minutes between applications. Sticking to this schedule will allow the skin and pH levels to stabilize and avoid unwanted side effects or irritation. Ideally, I recommend using both acids in the evening, as this reduces further damage from free radicals, such as UV rays.
Pollution and bad weather are limited.
Alternate the days for each acid
Alternating the use of the acids throughout the day will give you the best results without the risk of irritation. Again, I recommend applying the acids to the skin in the evening to provide peace of mind and prevent increased itching and irritation.
Use them at different times of the day
Instead of alternating appointments, you can use the acids at different times of the day. Start using azelaic acid in your morning routine, and don’t forget to apply sunscreen for extra protection. This means the weak acids can last all day
The skin-collecting effect. You can then apply kojic acid in the evening, which is more effective, but more likely to cause irritation when exposed to UV radiation.
As with all skincare ingredients, it’s important to make sure your skin benefits from the new additions to your routine. Therefore, it’s important to consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new ingredients or formulas.
Is Kojic Acid an AHA?
Yes, it does, although it’s not as well-known as glycolic or lactic acid. Kojic acid works on the surface of the skin to remove dead skin cells, dirt, and debris. In this way, new, vibrant skin emerges, the complexion appears radiant and healthy, and the skin barrier is strengthened to protect the skin from further damage. It also penetrates the subcutaneous layer to remove excess sebum and bacterial buildup from the pores, helping to maintain the clarity and overall health of the complexion.
The last property of kojic acid is that it inhibits the overproduction of melanin by amino acids, which can cause darkening and hyperpigmentation of melasma. Kojic acid is a powerful whitening ingredient, but it can cause increased irritation, especially after a chemical peel on the surface of the skin. As I stressed before, it’s important to wear SPF sunscreen every day for extra protection from the sun.
There you can find more information about the lesser-known acid and its benefits for your skin. If you have any more questions, feel free to contact us via Instagram.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
