Can You Use Too Much Salicylic Acid?
Salicylic acid, the skin ingredient that has acne quaking in its boots. It’s no wonder it’s a favourite amongst dermatologists and skincare fans. One of the most used beta hydroxy acid, BHA, it can work far into the pores, clearing them of excess sebum, bacteria, dirt, and debris that can develop into all manner of skin concerns, such as blackheads, whiteheads, and spots. You’ll find that due to the fact it’s oil soluble and has a smaller molecular size of salicylic acid it penetrates further than other favourite actives, such as glycolic acid. This is highly effective at cleansing a skin type that is oily and prone to frequent breakouts but can have a common side effect of dryness and irritation. Before we dive into today’s blog post, let’s have a quick recap of the benefits of salicylic acid and how it benefits the skin.
How can salicylic acid benefit the skin?
Loosens the bonds between dead skin cells making them easily removed from the top layer of skin, revealing vibrant, fresh skin underneath.
Clears clogged pores and congestion in the skin by penetrating deep into the lower layers of skin.
Helps to regulate sebum production and secretion making skin more manageable.
Helps to reduce inflammation and signs of redness, resulting in active, large spots improving in appearance.
Combats blemishes and breakouts, such as whiteheads, blackheads, and spots.
Chemically exfoliates the skin surface and breaks down keratin which is found in the upper surface of the skin.
If you wanted to know even more about this clever powerhouse, check out our dedicated blog post about salicylic acid and its skincare benefits.
Is it bad to use salicylic acid every day?
Not really, but only if you use it correctly. By this I mean that due to salicylic acid being a highly potent ingredient, it can often have some drying side effects.
As I have mentioned previously, the structure of the acid being oil soluble and having a smaller molecular size results in it penetrating deeply into the pores. This is hugely effective for those who have an oily skin type and prone to frequent breakouts and acne. If, however, your skin type is dry and sensitive, applying salicylic acid to the skin too often will lead to several problems. Not only will it be too irritating on the skin, but it’ll also strip the skin barrier of the essential oil and water. This will have a knock-on effect as your skin will feel it needs to produce more sebum which can result in a flare-up of breakouts and spots. This cycle will begin to feel endless if you continue to use the wrong formulas for your skin, therefore I always recommend you perform a patch test for 24 hours before applying anything on your face. This will help determine how happy your skin is with the potency of the product.
Don’t forget, if you ever have any concerns with using a product, seek the advice of a doctor or dermatologists. This should give you peace of mind and reassurance you won’t cause any further damage or irritation to the skin.
How do you know if you’re using too much salicylic acid?
There are a few tell-tale signs that your skin has been exposed to too many acids. This could be a result of layering too many acids on the skin incorrectly or using a formula that is too potent. Here are some examples of some of the signs your skin has experienced overexposure to salicylic acid.
Dryness
You may find your skin type is more on the dry side, which is why it’s important to use acids with caution. Many find salicylic acid to be too harsh for the skin if they have a dry skin type, and decide to opt for other acids, such as lactic acid or a poly hydroxy acid, also known as PHA. These have a larger molecular size and are unable to penetrate as far into the skin as salicylic acid but can provide light exfoliation to the top layers and build-up of dead skin cells.
If you have started using a salicylic acid formula you may find the skin can feel tight, uncomfortable, and dry. You may have to go to the extent of pulling funny faces as the need to stretch the skin is overwhelming.
Irritation
This is the most common sign your skin is overexposed to acids. Some may find their skin is itchy, others may notice areas of redness, flaky patches of skin, and even painful to touch. If you experience any of these, even in the mildest state, stop using your product containing salicylic acid and seek the help of a dermatologist.
Breakouts and Acne Flare-Ups
As I have already mentioned, if you are using a formula that is too harsh for the skin you will find the lipid barrier is stripped of the vital oil and water needed to remain healthy. With the skin lacking this it will kick start an overproduction of sebum which will build-up on the skin surface and clog the pores resulting in blackheads, whiteheads, and other breakouts.
If you have found yourself suffering from any of the above, it could be time to have break and rethink about your skincare routine. The usual trap many fall into is thinking they need the most potent formula to get the best exfoliation. This isn’t the case and will cause you more trouble than benefits. Take some time to explore your skin and gain a better understanding of its type and the ingredients it adores.
Can too much salicylic acid cause acne?
Yes, if you find that once you have started using a new product containing salicylic acid results in you having acne, the BHA could be contributing to this. There are two reasons this will affect your skin, for example, it could be a result of the formula working in the lower layers and unclogging the pores of dirt, excess sebum, bacteria, and other impurities. You’ll often find all this “gunk” is pushed to the surface and appear as acne. This is very common and regularly occurs around the 4-week mark of using your new product. Skincare experts tend to call this skin purging and it slowly begins to subside after 6 weeks.
The other reason your salicylic acid can cause acne is due to the reason I have previously mentioned, and the skin barrier has been stripped of its water and oil. This weakens the barrier allowing exposure to free radicals penetrating the skin and causing spots, as well as the overproduction of sebum leading to acne flare-ups.
There you have some answers to some of the questions we have received recently about using too much salicylic acid. If you have any further questions, come, and find us on Instagram, we love hearing from you!
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
