Can You use Vitamin C After AHA?
It’s very clear that acids, especially the ones belonging in the AHA and BHA families are a skincare favourite amongst many of us. With their abilities to work at sloughing away dead skin cells, unclogging pores, reviving a tired looking complexion, or combating discolouration, it’s no wonder we all have a product or two containing these powerhouses in our skincare collection.
There is also another ingredient that has a good reputation at benefiting the skin, vitamin C. With its long-standing history in the beauty industry, it has a shaky start after being christened an unstable ingredient and would often cause some irritation on the skin when layered with other actives. With modern technology and new research this is no longer the case meaning now more than ever, everyone is benefiting from this is glow restoring active.
The question we are left with, including others, is are you able to use vitamin C after AHA? We’ll explore this in a little more detail, but before we get stuck in, I’ll give you a brief recap of the benefits of these ingredients and how they work on the skin.
What is vitamin C?
Known for its ability to combat areas of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, age spots, and sun damage.
Packed with antioxidants helping to protect the skin against free radical exposure, such as pollution, UV rays, central heating, and other environmental aggressors.
Helps to reduce areas of dryness, blotchy, and patchy skin.
Boosts collagen production and targets signs of ageing, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity.
There is more to find out about vitamin C over on our dedicated blog post so be sure to check that out.
What are AHAs?
AHAs, also known as alpha hydroxy acids, are a collection of chemical exfoliants.
The most common and most known AHAs, are glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid.
There’s a variety of acids with different molecular size that work in a similar way on the skin whilst delivering their own unique benefits.
The exfoliation of these acids helps to unglue the bounds keeping the dead skin cells attached to the surface making the complexion look dull and lack lustre.
They help target areas of concern, from hyperpigmentation, signs of ageing, and problematic skin, such as acne and blemishes.
There is a fully dedicated blog post about AHAs and how they work on the skin, so take a look to find out more.
Should I use AHA or vitamin C first?
For many skincare experts, applying an AHA before your vitamin C product will deliver optimal results. This is because the acid will slough away the build-up of dead skin cells that can often create a barrier on the skin surface. Once this is removed, you’ll find your vitamin C product will absorb rapidly and effectively.
The way this works is connected to pH levels and how they can alter the skin’s pH, which is naturally more acidic. Once you have applied an acid that is typically between 3.0 and 4.0 you are creating the optimal environment to apply your vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid. It’s important to remain mindful that the skin can become irritated and stripped of the essential oil it needs to remain healthy. This is why it’s a good idea to check with a dermatologist or medical professional to ensure you are using the best ingredients and will experience optimal skin results.
Can I use vitamin C after exfoliating?
Yes, you certainly can! What you may find is when using a high percentage of vitamin C applying it after exfoliating will boost the active ingredient and boost the overall look and feel of the complexion. The skin will feel firmer and areas of concern such as hyperpigmentation, and dark spots are visibly reduced.
If you are sat there wondering whether vitamin C exfoliates the skin, the answer is no. However, it does help increase the skin cell turnover, promoting new, fresh skin cells to make their way to the surface. This explains how vitamin C has gained a reputation for providing such a luminous, healthy, glowing finish to the skin.
Those of you with sensitive skin may find exfoliating with a chemical or physical exfoliants to be too harsh and experience a flare-up in irritation, redness, and increased dryness. This can be avoided if you opt to use lactic acid for exfoliation as this is one of the milder AHAs. You should then wait for at least 30 minutes before applying your vitamin C serum. Finally finish off with a moisturiser or serum packed with hyaluronic acid to help lock hydration into the skin and decreasing the risk of unwanted dryness and irritation. For extra precautionary actions, you can also perform a patch test for 24 hours before applying any product to your skin. This will help you determine whether your skin will be happy with any actives applied to the skin, especially if you’ve not used any of these ingredients before.
Can I use vitamin C after BHA?
Not really, this is due to how different BHAs perform on the skin compared to AHAs. You’ll find BHAs, the most used being, salicylic acid, works deeper into the skin. It can do this because of the smaller molecular size compared to an AHA. This ensures salicylic acid and other BHAs are highly effective ingredient to use if you have an oily and blemish-prone skin type as they work down into the pores and unclog them of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and other impurities.
As effective as it is, BHAs are notoriously potent and if you layer vitamin C over the skin you will experience a lot of irritation, redness, increases photosensitivity, and severe dryness. To gain the best results without any side effects, I would suggest alternating when you apply each active. Start your morning routine with vitamin C as its antioxidant properties will protect the skin from daily oxidised stress. Follow this in the evening with BHA, such as salicylic acid, to work deeply into the lower layers and work undisturbed whilst you catch some beauty sleep.
Don’t forget if you have any worries with teaming certain ingredients together consult with your GP or a dermatologist. Also don’t hesitate to get in touch with us over on Instagram, one of team is always available in the direct messages to answer any skincare questions.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
