Can I Still Use Oxidised Vitamin C?
Vitamin C as a skincare ingredient has a deep-rooted reputation for being highly effective, yet unstable powerhouse. Pushing all those outdated reports aside, vitamin C is certainly a favourite amongst skincare experts and fans alike.
You’ll find that the most common formula everyone tends to reach for are serums, this is because many find applying a serum enriched in vitamin C is the most effective way of benefiting from the skin reviving ingredient. If you are wanting to know more about vitamin C and how it can benefit the skin, check out our dedicated blog post about it over on the Beauty Insiders.
Now, let’s move on to exploring what happens and whether we can still use oxidised vitamin C. If you are sat there wondering how vitamin C can oxidise, here is a brief recap on the tell-tale signs your serum has oxidised.
Vitamin C, also known as L-Ascorbic Acid, is often formulated into serums that are light in consistency and colour, typically clear, or sometimes champagne in colour.
Once it oxidises, the serum will appear dark yellow, orange, and sometimes brown in colour.
You’ll find that once a serum is oxidised its potency is reduced up to 25%
If you find your serum or product to have an unusual odour it is clear sign you must stop using it completely as it will not benefit the skin in any way and could potentially cause irritation.
You can find out more about how to tell if your vitamin C has become oxidised in our blog post.
Can we use oxidised vitamin C serum?
Yes, you can, but only if it has turned slightly yellow. This is usually a sign of the oxidisation has started, but the formula is still potent enough to deliver its benefits to the skin. If however, it has a dark orange or brown colour to it, it’s best to avoid using it all together as it not only useless on the skin, it will also create a barrier on the surface of the skin that can interfere with other active ingredients and formulas absorbing effectively into the skin.
You will sometimes find there are different types of vitamin C found in various skincare products that vary in stability, the stable forms taking longer to oxidised and generally more potent. By this I mean some vitamin C types, such as L-ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, both of which are water-soluble and are often formulated into products suited for those with an oily skin type that are prone to blemishes and acne flare-ups. If you have a dry skin type you may find other types of vitamin C that are richer in consistency and moisturising, such as ascorbly palmitate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate are better suited due to the fact they are lipid-soluble vitamin C types.
Is oxidised vitamin C harmful?
In a word, yes, oxidised vitamin C can become harmful to the skin. You’ll find that in some cases people suffer from unwanted skin irritation, but this isn’t the only problem. The effectiveness of your vitamin C serum is completely depleted. This means the skin no longer benefits from the benefits of the active. Benefits such as the antioxidants found in the formula that can ward off any exposure to free radicals, like pollution, central heating, harsh climates, and other environmental aggressors. With the vitamin C no longer containing the right potency it is unable to keep the lipid barrier of the skin strong and protected from further skin damage. This damage can result as fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation.
Finally, in some rare cases, applying oxidised vitamin C to the skin can lead to discolouration and yellowing of the skin which can take some time to subside.
Is vitamin C still good after oxidation?
Yes and no, as I have just explained, using an oxidised vitamin C product can often lead to some side effects if the formula has turned dark orange or brown. With it lacking in potency and the risk of it staining your skin it is said to avoid using vitamin C products once they have severely oxidised.
How do I know if my vitamin C has oxidised?
As I have already mentioned, the colour of your formula is a vital factor to keep an eye on. It is generally considered that if your serum begins to look yellow, orange, or brown, it’s time to chuck it out.
When using vitamin C serums, it is important to remember to store your product the correct way and use it in the most effective way too. This is something we will cover in the next section to share some tips with you about how to keep your vitamin C product fresher for longer.
How can you stop vitamin C from oxidising?
There are a few ways of preventing your vitamin C serum from oxidising too quickly and staying fresher for longer. So, here are our top tips of extending the shelf life of these potent powerhouse formulations.
Keep your vitamin C away from sunlight
Exposure to the sun can rapidly decrease the effectiveness and potency of the active ingredient. To keep it delivering the best results keep it in a cupboard or drawer. You must also not that all products containing vitamin C must come in an opaque or light blocking packaging.
Always secure your lid
This may sound silly to some, but it is very important you keep oxygen out of your serums. Any exposure to oxygen will make the vitamin C effectiveness deteriorate making it unable to perform. Misplacing a lid is something that is easily done, so better to be safe than sorry and double check before storing your vitamin C serum away.
Keep your products out of the bathroom
I understand how storing your skincare products in your bathroom cabinet makes sense. But it is possibly the worse place for your skincare products. The fluctuation in heat and being exposed to frequent humidity will alter the formulations and can interfere with how they work on the skin.
Remember about the products life cycle
If a vitamin C product is left unopened and stored in a drawer away from direct sunlight, it will last up to three years. Once it’s opened however, you’re looking at about 3 months until the potency begins to wear off. It is important to use your vitamin C serum as frequently as possible to reap the rewards and use up the formula whilst it is at its most potent state.
There you have a little insight into using oxidised vitamin C and how it will affect the skin. Don’t forget, if you have any further questions, you can come and find us in Instagram.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
