Layering Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid: A Simple Routine

How To Use Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid

With the beauty industry being such a busy hive of must try formulas and hero ingredients reigning supreme, you’ll find there are a few ingredients that enjoy staying under the radar. But today, we are going to shine some light on Azelaic acid and niacinamide and how they can be used together in your daily skincare routine. Hopefully, once we bring both these skin heroes to your attention, you’ll wonder how you ever had a routine without them!

Now, if you’re reading this and thinking to yourself, what on earth is azelaic acid and niacinamide? This next part is for you!

What does Niacinamide do for the skin?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and can benefit all skin types due to the fact it has humectant properties. This means niacinamide can draw in moisture into the skin and lock it into place, resulting in the protective skin barrier remains fully functioning. With the skin barrier containing the correct levels of water and oil it can prevent any further damage to the skin caused by exposure to free radical such as pollution, UV rays and other environmental aggressors. Niacinamide also carries the benefits of being able to regulate the sebum production in the skin meaning it can help to rebalance and promote clarity for the complexion.

What does Azelaic Acid do for the skin?

Obtained from various grains, such as barley, wheat and rye and is often formulated in products to work as a leave on exfoliant. It is usually mistaken as being a member of the AHA family, azelaic acid delivers cell communicating skills by “telling” the skin cells on the surface how to behave and over time work at having a smoother, vibrant complexion. It can combat signs of pigmentation and reduce any visible fine lines and wrinkles; it can also help soothe any flare-ups of rosacea. As effective as azelaic acid is at perfecting the skin it can increase photosensitivity so always ensure you a daily SPF of 30 and above.

Can you use niacinamide and azelaic acid together?

You can indeed, what you may find is that niacinamide and azelaic acid form a powerful skin perfecting duo. Whilst azelaic acid is ridding the surface build-up of dead skin cells, bacteria, and impurities whilst niacinamide works at aiding a boost in hydration and restoring the skin barrier to its healthiest state.

When it comes to formulations, you’ll find that niacinamide and azelaic acid are found in products such as serums, face oils and moisturisers. This is an important point to remember as generally these products remain to on the skin for a longer amount of time. This usually results in the potency of each ingredient being a higher percentage meaning you can often see results quicker. With this, it does mean there is a higher risk of irritation and other skin reactions so ensuring you have performed a patch test on the skin beforehand is vital to avoid any of this.

If you wanted to find out more about using niacinamide and azelaic acid together, check out our dedicated blog post.

Do you use niacinamide before azelaic acid?

This first depends on the product each ingredient is formulated in, as I have mentioned in previous posts applying skincare products from thinnest to thickest allows each product to absorb into the skin. If I was to give you my own personal thoughts, I would suggest using a serum enriched in azelaic acid first, followed by a moisturiser packed with niacinamide.

By using the azelaic acid formula first, you are removing the barrier on the surface of the skin created by a build-up of dead skin cells, revealing new skin underneath. Once you have applied niacinamide you’ll maintain the overall health and glowing appearance of your skin with the peace of mind there won’t be any signs of irritation.

What do you not mix with niacinamide?

With its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties there are a great deal of skin ingredients to team with niacinamide. With its humectant traits it is helps keep the skin hydrated, soothed and balanced making it an ideal teammate for any other ingredients that are more potent, such as AHA like glycolic acid or BHA such as salicylic acid.

As for skin ingredients that should not be mixed with niacinamide, it is considered that vitamin C delivers similar results and when used together can result in both ingredients counteracting each other rendering them both useless for the skin. Having said that there is nothing stopping you from applying a serum enriched in vitamin C during your morning routine, and niacinamide serum in the evening to reap the rewards with none of the side effects.

Does azelaic acid make you purge?

Yes, it certainly does, but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Azelaic acid can speed up the skin cell turn over causing a sudden flare-up in breakouts on the face. This is simply a sign that the azelaic acid is doing its job and ridding the skin of excess sebum, dead skin cells, impurities, and bacteria that in the long run can cause a larger number of problems. Be mindful that if these breakouts are accompanied with discomfort, itching, rashes, or flakiness, this is a sign that azelaic acid is too harsh for your skin and should stop using it instantly. Remember that if you have any concerns with introducing azelaic acid into your routine its best to consult with a doctor or dermatologist to ensure it’s the best ingredient for you and your skin.

Does azelaic acid help with acne scars?

Thanks to azelaic acid helping with skin renewal you’ll find it is able to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and fade dark spots that are often a result of post acne scarring. By sloughing away dead skin cells you’ll find dark spots become lighter over time resulting in them becoming less noticeable to the naked eye. To prevent further sun damage and the overproduction of melanin it is best to remember to apply a daily SPF of 30 and above to prevent further damage from developing.

Should I moisturise before or after azelaic acid?

Taking into consideration the fact that moisturisers have a thick consistency, it is best to apply them at the final stages of your routine. Another benefit of moisturisers is the fact they contain high levels of water and once applied to the skin can help keep the skin surface hydrated and plumped. They are also able to form a protective barrier on the outer layer ensuring any potent ingredients or serums you applied beforehand can work their magic whilst undisturbed from exposure to free radical factors such as UV sun rays, pollution and other environmental aggressors.

So, whether you use niacinamide and azelaic acid separately or teamed together you’ll find they create an overall soothing, hydrating and reviving skin power duo. As always, I would suggest if you were new to these ingredients always check with a doctor or medical professional.

If you have any questions, or just love all things skincare, come, and join us over on Instagram, and don’t forget to check out our latest episode of The Green Sofa over on our YouTube channel.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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