Maltese Cross Pattern in Moisturizers
The maltese cross pattern can be used to find the best barrier repair moisturizers to strengthen the skin barrier.[1] The maltese cross pattern is seen under a cross polarized microscope and represents lipids that are packed together in the optimal orthorhombic structure that makes the strongest skin barrier.
When formulated properly, eczema creams, moisturizers for dry skin and barrier repair moisturizers will display this characteristic pattern. However, many moisturizers do not display this pattern. When choosing a barrier repair moisturizer, try to find one that has the maltese cross pattern when viewed under a cross polarized microscope. This guide will explain the meaning of the maltese cross pattern and why the maltese cross pattern is important in moisturizing creams.
Before buying an moisturizer, make sure you are shopping for moisturizers using your Baumann Skin Type. Moisturizers can do more than just repairing the skin barrier. Find one that targets all of your barriers to skin health.
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Where do we see the Maltese Cross pattern?
The maltese cross pattern may be seen under a cross polarized microscope in:
Barrier repair moisturizers
Face creams, body creams, and hand creams
Moisturizing skin creams
Eczema creams
Healthy human skin
Tape stripping from normal skin
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Why is the maltese cross pattern important for the skin barrier?
To understand the maltese cross pattern, you need to know about the skin barrier. Click here to learn what the skin barrier is.
Healthy Skin Barrier
The skin barrier is composed of layers of lipids (fat) that surround keratinocyte skin cells in the upper layer of the epidermis called the stratum corneum. These lipid layers form the skin barrier. This barrier prevents exit of water from the skin and entry of allergens, irritants, and microbes into the skin.
The skin lipids that are represented by the blue head and yellow tails in the illustrations are:
Ceramides
Fatty acids
Cholesterol
In normal healthy skin, these 3 types of skin lipids[2] are present in a 1:1:1 ratio and are arranged in an orthorhombic pattern.
The maltese cross pattern is seen in healthy skin with a strong protective skin barrier when viewed under a cross polarized microscope.
Unhealthy Skin Barrier
In unhealthy skin such as inflamed skin or eczema[4], the skin lipids are arranged in either hexagonal or liquid crystalline patterns.* (see below to learn about these patterns)
What is the maltese cross pattern as seen with a cross polarized microscope?
When you look at mages of moisturizers under a cross polarized microscope, it is easy to see the maltese cross pattern. But what are you seeing? Why does the skin barrier make this structure?
When lipids line up in an orthorhombic pattern, this is the most stable lipid formation. The light from the cross polarized microscope shines through a X polarizer and a Y polarizer and gives the maltese cross pattern.
The orthorhombic pattern looks like a maltese cross when cross polarized light is used to view the lipid bilayers (lamella) with a cross polarized microscope.
The orthorhombic orientation of lipids in the skin makes the barrier stronger because the lipids can pack in closer together. The orthorhombic pattern is the best orientation and infrastructure of lipids to make a strong skin barrier. A strong skin barrier helps prevent water evaporation off of the skin and block entry of substances into the skin.[3]
Why is it important that a moisturizer display a maltese cross pattern?
In order for a barrier repair moisturizer to work well, the lipids in it must mimic the natural structure of the lipids in the skin.
Think of skin lipids as puzzle pieces that must come together perfectly so they can pack together with the minimal amount of space between them. If there is space between lipids, this allows water to evaporate off of the skin- leaving it dehydrated.
Optimal barrier repair moisturizers contain lipids that are the same shape and structure as those found in the stratum corneum layer of normal skin.[5]
The best barrier repair moisturizers to treat dry skin and eczema have a maltese cross pattern when viewed with a cross polarized microscope.
What does a normal skin barrier look like under a microscope?
How a healthy normal skin barrier looks under a microscope depends upon the type of microscope used:
Regular microscope- the stratum corneum skin cells can be seen
Electron microscope- multiple lamellar layers are seen
Cross-polarized microscope- displays demonstrates optical anisotrophy in a maltese cross pattern
What is the maltese cross pattern in skin and skin creams?
A strong skin barrier demonstrates optical anisotropy in a maltese cross pattern. The maltese cross pattern is light seen when a particular spacial distribution of particles is viewed with a crosspolarized microscope.
Science of the Lipid Structure of the Skin Barrier
The skin barrier is composed of lipids- mainly ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol. These lipids can be structured in 3 main patterns:
Orthorhombic (OR)
Hexagonal (HEX)
Liquid crystalline (LIQ)
The orthorhombic pattern is the most tightly packed and conformationally ordered pattern.[6] This orthorhombic lipid structure forms the strongest skin barrier pattern because the lipids can pack together tightly preventing movement of water and irritants across the lipid lamella.
Patients with skin diseases such as eczema that have defective skin barriers show a hexagonal pattern rather than an orthorhombic pattern of lipids. [7] The type of fatty acids and the ratio of fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides affects the structure of the bilayer lipid membranes.
So the goal of developing a strong barrier repair moisturizer is to use the proper 1:1:1 ratio of lipids and a formula that forms a orthorhombic pattern.
Which moisturizers display a maltese cross pattern?
To see images of best-selling moisturizers under a cross polarized microscope, click here.
These moisturizers display the maltese cross pattern:
The Zerafite brand has 4 moisturizers with maltese cross pattern
Medature PSL Repair Moisturizer
To find out if you need a barrier repair moisturizer shop by your Baumann Skin Type.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
