Mandelic Acid In Skin Care

Mandelic acid (MA), a popular ingredient in skincare, has many benefits and can treat a variety of skin concerns. As a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), it is loved for its gentle yet effective exfoliating properties. This article discusses its mechanism of action, benefits, conditions it can treat, and its safety profile, especially during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Additionally, we will discuss the necessity of using sun protection when incorporating mandelic acid into your skincare routine.

Is this ingredient good for your skin? It depends upon which of the 16 Skin Types you are!

Mandelic acid is an AHA derived from bitter almonds

It is a gentle exfoliant

It can make you more susceptible to sun damage so wear SPF

Safe in pregnancy and when breastfeeding

What is Mandelic Acid?

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from the kernel of bitter almonds. It is chemically known as 2-phenyl-2-hydroxyacetic acid. It is an acid and therefore has a low pH. The pKa of mandelic acid is 3.41. This means that the strength of MA depends upon what pH it is formulated at and what concentration is in the formula.

Mandelic Acid Skin Care Products

I’m a dermatologist in Miami who specializes in designing skin care routines. I choose MA for my patients with resistant hyperpigmented skin types. It is not right for everyone, so use caution when you choose to use serums, creams, toners, and peels with mandelic acid.

It is important to realize that all types of MA products including toners, serums, lotions, creams, peels, and pads are exfoliants. Over using an exfoliant can lead to skin sensitivity, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation. So shop using your skin type and we will help you decide if MA is right for you. If you see your skin type octagon next to any of the products with mandelic acid shown below, you will the product is right for you. If you do not see your octagons it means one or more of the following:

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None of these are right for your skin type

Mandelic Acid Serum

Which mandelic acid serum is best depends upon which skin condition you are treating. Here are some of our dermatologist-recommended mandelic acid serums. Each medical-grade serum works best in a consistent and correct skin care routine customized for your skin type.

If you have dark spots and need a serum to treat the skin pigmentation, this is my favorite mandelic aid serum that lightens dark spots.

Dark spots from acne? This is our pick for the best serum to make these pimple marks go away faster. Luckily, they are usually not true acne scars and will clear with time (and sunscreen).

Mandelic Acid Peel

You can use peels to enhance skin texture and radiance. To incorporate mandelic acid peels into your skincare routine, apply the peel 2-3 times a week, allowing your skin to adjust to the exfoliation. However, be cautious not to over-exfoliate, especially if you are also using potent ingredients like retinol and ascorbic acid, which can increase skin sensitivity.

Peels are not right for all skin types- beware!

MA peels may be right for oily skin types with resistant skin, but only after you have increased the retinol in your regimen to a high strength retinol. If you have used the high strength retinol every night for 4 weeks without redness and irritation, only then should you add this peel 2- 3 times a week.

For more advice- ask our skin care concierge AI bot to guide you.

How Does Mandelic Acid Work?

Mandelic acid works primarily through exfoliation, a process that involves the removal of dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. This AHA breaks down the bonds between dead keratinocytes, the predominant cell type in the epidermis. By dissolving these intercellular connections, mandelic acid helps to slough off the outermost layer of dead skin cells, revealing the fresher, more radiant skin beneath.

Unlike other AHAs, such as glycolic acid, mandelic acid has a larger molecular structure. This larger size allows for slower and more even penetration into the skin, reducing the likelihood of irritation while still delivering effective exfoliation. This makes it more gentle than other AHAs.

Benefits

The benefits of mandelic acid in skincare are multifaceted:

Smoother Skin Texture : By promoting the shedding of dead skin cells, mandelic acid helps to smooth out the skin’s surface, reducing rough patches and uneven texture.

Radiant and Glowing Skin : Exfoliation enhances skin radiance and luminosity by allowing light to bounce off the skin’s surface making you glow.

Improved Penetration of Other Ingredients : By removing the top layer of dead keratinocytes, mandelic acid facilitates the deeper penetration of other active ingredients in skincare products, enhancing their efficacy.

Skin Lightening: Combining MA with tyrosinase inhibitors can help speed how quickly results are seen.

Conditions It Can Treat

Mandelic acid is versatile in its applications and can be used to address various skin conditions:

Acne : Has antibacterial properties, making it effective in treating acne. It helps to unclog pores and reduce inflammation, leading to fewer breakouts and clearer skin.

Keratosis Pilaris : This condition, characterized by small, rough bumps on the skin, can be improved with exfoliation, which smooths the skin and reduces the appearance of bumps.

Dull Skin : Can revitalize dull, tired-looking skin, imparting a healthy glow and improving overall skin tone.

Fine Lines and Wrinkles : By promoting cell turnover and collagen production, mandelic acid can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, resulting in a more youthful complexion.

Hyperpigmentation : When combined with skin lighteners such as tyrosinase inhibitors, MA can effectively reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone by accelerating the removal of pigmented cells.

How To Use

Take our quiz to see which of 16vskin tuypes you are and learn if mA is even good for your skin. If it is good for yoru skin type, here is my advice on how to use it:

Start with lower concentration

Gradually increase usage to allow the skin to build tolerance.

Monitor skin for any signs of redness, dryness, or irritation

Adjusting usage frequency or concentration as needed to avoid these side effects

Do not use for the first time right before a big event! (You might have a reaction)

Safety

Mandelic acid is rated a 1 by the EWG, which is it’s safest rating. It is generally considered safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Mandelic acid’s gentle nature and slower penetration reduce the risk of irritation. However, combining 3 or more exfoliators in your routine or overusing mandelic acid can cause skin inflammation that can lead to skin sensitivity, skin aging, and hyperpigmentation.

Teens and Tweens

There has been some recent discussion about how teens and tweens should avoid exfoliation because this can lead to sensitive skin and sun damage. While mandelic acid is known for its gentle nature, it can still cause irritation, especially when formulated at a low pH.

If you are a teen or tween, take the skin type quiz to get the best recommendations for your skin or read this blog on teenage skin care.

Caution

Peels are not for everyone. They are often not necessary.. There are many really good skin care ingredient that you may need in your routine such as Vitamin C and retinol that may irritate you if you use mandelic acid. So make sure you need an exfoliator before you add one to your routine.

Remember- every product in your skin care routine matters so your routine should be designed so all of the products work well together.

Need for Sun Protection

One crucial aspect of using mandelic acid is the increased sensitivity to sunlight it can cause. By exfoliating the top layer of the skin, mandelic acid can make the skin more susceptible to UV damage. Therefore, it is imperative to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 daily when incorporating mandelic acid into your skincare regimen. This will help protect the newly revealed skin from harmful UV rays and prevent further skin damage.

Conclusion

Mandelic acid is especially beneficial for those with resistant skin types that have dark spots. However, it is not suitable for everyone, and it is crucial to check if it is right for your skin before purchasing. It is essential to use proper sun protection to maximize the benefits of mandelic acid while minimizing potential risks. By understanding your skin and it’s properties you can make informed decisions about incorporating mandelic acid into your routine. It can be used in a cleanser, toner. serum, cream or lotion- but it should not be used in more than one product in your skin care routine that you use each day. Questions? Ask our AI bot (our skin care concierge). It will guide you towards the best mandelic acid products and may offer you a discount.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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