Marula Oil in Skin Care
Marula oil in skin care
Marula oil (Sclerocarya birrea) comes from a plant in the southern regions of the African continent.
It has been used in regional traditional medicine for hundreds, if not thousands of years and is making its way into foreign markets.
Its fatty acid composition is reminiscent of olive oil, but it is considered less comedogenic than olive oil. There is still much to discover about marula oil in research, but we’ve compiled what there is to know on its use in skin care today.
Find some of our favorite marula oil products and learn the science of this exciting ingredient today!
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What is marula oil?
What kind of oil is marula oil?
Marula oil is derived from the nuts of the marula tree and it is primarily composed of unsaturated fats.
It also contains a notable concentration of creamy saturated fatty acids like palmitic acid.
It is a plant oil and could be considered an essential oil even though it contains lipids.
Its fatty acid composition makes it thick enough to be an occlusive, which are used in treatments like skin slugging.
Active compounds
Marula oil is made of compounds with anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and moisturizing qualities.
The most significant fatty acids in marula oil by concentration are: (2)
Oleic acid (69%)
Palmitic acid (15.3%)
Linoleic acid (9.2%)
Palmitoleic acid (4.1%)
Stearic acid (1.5%)
Benefits
Each of the active fatty acids in marula oil provides unique benefits.
Oleic acid makes small perforations on the skin which enables easier absorption of other compounds, like retinoids, into the skin.
Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid that gives marula oil its occlusive properties and is an emollient that helps your skin glow. This fatty acid can clog the pores of acne prone skin.
Occlusives lock moisture and other active ingredients into the skin so they don’t evaporate or drip off. In other words, they prevent transepidermal water loss.
Marula oil also has a little bit of linoleic acid in it; a soothing compound that calms redness and other kinds of inflammation. Many moisturizers rely on ingredients with a lot of linoleic acid.
The antimicrobial compounds in marula oil mean it may be useful as a preservative, or for eliminating acne causing bacteria on the skin.
Antioxidants, also found in the oil, are essential in anti-aging products alongside other anti-aging ingredients like retinoids.
Like other oils composed mainly of unsaturated fatty acids, marula oil can be used in skin lightening products for its tyrosinase inhibiting properties.
If you’d like to try marula oil in your skin care regimen, be sure to shop by your Baumann Skin Type to find the right products for you!
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Side-effects of marula oil
Side effects
Marula oil only has a few possible side effects, dependent on your skin type.
The high oleic acid concentration in marula oil can be irritating to extremely dry skin types.
The palmitic fatty acids in marula oil mean it is slightly comedogenic and can cause acne on sensitive skin types.
Too much moisture on the face from overuse of occlusives can result in a change to the microbiome.
Marula oil is a possible, though uncommon allergen.
Safe
Marula oil is considered safe unless you have an allergy to it, have acne prone skin, or use it outside of your custom skin care regimen.
The EWG rating for marula oil is “1.” This means there are no commonly associated risks with the ingredient.
Tons of research is being done every year on marula oil as it breaks into foreign markets from its beginnings in southern Africa, and so far no dangers have been identified.
Is marula oil safe?
Uses
It is specifically the kernels of the marula plant that are used in the production of oil for skin care.
The rest of the plant is versatile as well, being used to feed livestock or to brew regional southern African foods and beverages. (4)
Marula oil is still fairly new in the global skin care market, so the current selection of marula products are limited and need more testing.
For those reasons, the following considerations of specific conditions are based on what we know about the ingredient’s characteristics, not based on what products are available today.
Acne
Marula oil is a good ingredient for acne treatment and prevention products.
This ingredient has a chance to clog the pores of extremely acne-prone skin types because it contains some palmitic acid, although more research needs to be done on it’s comedogenic properties.
It also has significant antimicrobial properties which eliminate acne causing bacteria on the skin.
The oleic acid in marula oil creates tiny perforations on the skin, helping other ingredients get absorbed.
Dry skin conditions
There are many hydrating and occlusive fatty acids in marula oil that make it a good ingredient in many moisturizers, however it is not good for extremely dry skin conditions because it contains oleic acid.
Depending on your skin’s sensitivity to oleic acid, marula oil might be good for your dry skin care regimen.
Eczema
Marula oil’s high concentration of oleic acid can damage the skin barrier when you have eczema even though it has a lot of hydrating fatty acids and anti-inflammatory properties.
The best oils for eczema are primarily composed of soothing linoleic fatty acids and very little (if any) oleic acid. like:
Borage seed oil
Evening primrose oil
Rosehip oil
Safflower oil
Sunflower oil
Hyperpigmentation
Because marula oil is primarily composed of unsaturated fatty acids.
It is a weak tyrosinase inhibitor and can treat many kinds of hyperpigmentation but should be used in combination with other lightening ingredients like licorice extract, or PAR-2 blockers like niacinamide.
Marula oil would likely be useful in treatments of conditions like melasma, PIH, or sun damage.
Using any skin lightener can take weeks to show results, so be patient when trying to get rid of your dark spots!
marula vs rosehip
Marula oil vs rosehip oil
Rosehip has tons of linoleic acid, marula oil has very little linoleic acid.
Rosehip has very little oleic, marula has a ton of oleic acid.
Other than that, both serve similar functions in skin care as moisturizer ingredients.
Rosehip oil is better for extremely dry skin types and conditions because of its more soothing fatty acids.
Marula oil is better as a supplementary occlusive oil in cases where oleic acid is desirable, like in acne treatments.
Rosehip oil also contains a ton of alpha-linolenic acid, which marula does not. Alpha-linolenic acid helps your body produce ceramides, which are essential for moisturizing.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.