Matrixyl (KTTKS) in Skin Care

Matrixyl, also known as KTTKS), is a peptide in antiaging skin care serums and creams. It is extremely popular because of it’s skin smoothing effects but these are temporary. This blog discusses the uses, benefits and safety of Matrixyl and compares it to retinoids and another popular peptide Argiriline.

Is Matrixyl a better antiaging ingredient than exosomes, growth factors, and Vitamin C? Is it worth the money?

I am a dermatologist who specializes in skin care research. Lets review Matrixyl together.

What is Matrixyl?

Matrixyl is a skin care peptide marketed for anti-aging effects. It consists of the amino acids lysine, threonine, threonine, lysine, and serine attached to a fatty acid called palmitic acid. This combination is abbreviated Pal-KTTKS. The palmitic acid aims to help absorption into the skin.

Matrixyl 3000

Matrixyl 3000 is a mix of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. It provides broader anti-aging benefits by stimulating not only collagen but also fibronectin production.

What does Matrixyl Do for Skin?

Matrixyl is primarily marketed for reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and improving skin firmness. It is added to various anti-aging creams, serums and lotions. Matrixyl aims to stimulate collagen production in the skin for a more youthful, smoother, and firmer skin.

How does matrixyl work?

Mechanism of Action

This popular peptide works by enhancing the activity of the growth factor TGF-β, which in turn promotes the synthesis of collagen and fibronectin. The aim is to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by reinforcing the extracellular matrix and collagen infrastructure that are lost or reduced in aged skin.

How it works

TGF-beta stimulates cells to make more collagen. (Collagen is lost when skin ages.) Increased amounts of collagen make skin firmer, thicker, and smoother.

However, to work, the Matrixyl must pass through the epidermis to the dermis and be able to communicate with fibroblasts deep in the skin. Can it get this deep in the skin?

Does Matrixyl Work?

Matrixyl has a molecular weight of 802.05 Da, which restricts its ability to penetrate the skin effectively. The target cells for collagen production—fibroblasts—are located in the skin’s dermal layer, making it challenging for Matrixyl to exert its effect where it’s most needed.

Matrixyl’s size of 802 daltons exceeds the 500 dalton threshold believed to be required for penetrating the outermost skin layer known as the stratum corneum. Being unable to reach the dermal layer is a major obstacle to Matrixyl’s efficacy. The palmitic acid fatty acid added to this molecules aims to help absorption into the skin, but the size of Matrixyl prevents absorption into the dermal layers of the skin.

Instability

Like many peptides, Matrixyl tends to be unstable. They are susceptible to oxidation and react with other ingredients in the skin care product formulation. They can also potentially reducing efficacy of products in the skin care regimen.

It also has a very short shelf life due to instability so peptide products go bad very quickly. They are often combined with antioxidants to try to prevent this.

The Skin Tries Very Hard To Keep It Out

If a peptide is able to make it past the epidermis, it would still have to dodge a barrage of over 500 protease enzymes eager to break it down. Most topically applied peptides do not make it through the skin’s natural defense mechanisms.

Aggregation of peptides

High concentrations of peptides like Matrixyl may clump together, compromising emulsion stability. These clumps of peptides make skin penetration impossible and effect the texture and feel of the skin serum or cream. For this reason, low concentrations are usually used in skin care products reducing effectiveness.

Research on Matrixyl

Research Studies

In vitro studies (cell culture studies)-

Robust studies in human fibroblast cultures have demonstrated that Pal-KTTKS, the active component in Matrixyl, significantly increases collagen production. But penetration is not an issue when peptides are applied directly to cells in a culture dish.

In vivo studies (in live humans)-

Human studies have yielded mixed results. For example, a double-blind, placebo-controlled split-face study on 93 women showed a small but statistically insignificant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles after 12 weeks of Pal-KTTKS application. Statistical significance must be achieved in an evidence based study to say that a product really works.

There are no studies looking at the effects of these peptides on autophagy or cellular senescence.

It’s crucial to note that despite enticing abstracts and claims, there isn’t a peer-reviewed study that conclusively proves Matrixyl’s efficacy in reducing facial wrinkles. The research is often misrepresented by marketing claims, which can mislead both consumers and healthcare providers.

Is Matrixyl safe?

Safety and Side Effects

Matrixyl is generally considered safe for topical use at prescribed concentrations. No serious side effects have been reported. Minor skin irritation is possible if concentration exceeds recommended levels.

As a large peptide, systemic absorption of Matrixyl through the skin is typically minimal. While palmitic acid enhances penetration, the amount entering circulation is likely insignificant.

The EWG gives Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 3 a score of a 1 (very safe).

The CIR also reported that Matrixyl was safe. (3)

Best Matrixyl Products

We prefer products that have antioxidants and other antiaging ingredients mixed in with the Matrixyl peptides to help improve stability and effectiveness. Never use these before a Vitamin C serum or other facial serum because they will prevent absorption of the serum that goes after the peptide product.

Other names for matrixyl

Other names for Matrixyl

Here are some other names for Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide – Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 was previously referred to as palmitoyl oligopeptide, but this broad term is no longer allowed.

Matrixyl 3000 – This was an early trade name used for palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 by the company Sederma.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide – This is a shortened general name without the 3 subscript.

Pal-GHK – This refers to palmitic acid bound to the peptide glycine-histidine-lysine.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-GHK – The full scientific name specifying the amino acid sequence.

Liposomyl tetrapetide – An alternate trade name used by some cosmetic brands.

In summary, the most common names are:

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3

Matrixyl 3000

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (outdated)

The underlying peptide sequence is Glycine-Histidine-Lysine, with palmitic acid attached to enable skin penetration.

Matrixyl vs Argiriline

Like Matrixyl, Argiriline is a peptide marketed for reducing facial wrinkles. However, Argiriline works by inhibiting SNARE complex formation, which temporarily limits muscle contraction. The producers claim that provides a ‘Botox-like’ effect reducing expression lines. (However, Argiriline would have to penetrate ll the way to the muscle cells to achieve this.)

Matrixyl aims to work deeper in the skin by stimulating dermal collagen production. However, given Matrixyl’s limited penetration, it likely does not reach muscles to impact SNARE proteins. Argiriline also faces absorption challenges being 1,002 Daltons in size.

Overall, Matrixyl and Argiriline work via different mechanisms but both suffer from skin penetration issues. More research is required to substantiate their anti-wrinkle claims, especially compared to topical agents like retinoids, growth factors, and exosomes.

Matrixyl vs Retinol

In contrast to Matrixyl, retinoids like retinol readily penetrate through the stratum corneum into the epidermal and dermal layers. Once in the skin, retinoids bind to receptors that stimulate gene expression, promoting collagen synthesis and inhibiting collagen breakdown.

Many rigorous clinical studies demonstrate retinoids like tretinoin and tazarotene effectively reduce fine lines, wrinkles, photodamage and skin roughness. Retinoid therapy reverses signs of aging at the cellular level.

With evidence for efficacy and skin penetration, retinoids remain the gold standard topical anti-aging treatment. More research is needed for Matrixyl to be considered in the same league as retinoids.

Why are peptides popular?

Why are Peptides so Popular?

Peptides temporarily coat the skin’s surface making it look instantly smoother, This makes these very loved ingredients even if they are unproven to have an y long term effect.

Skin Care Routine with Matrixyl

Just as with every other ingredient-it is important to match to your Baumann Skin Type and make sure that it increases the effectiveness of other skin care products in the skin care routine. With any peptide it is critical to make sure that every ingredient in the skin care routine is compatible.

Let me help you build a skin care routine. You will be able to choose products from many medical grade brands to create a custom skin care routine with my guidance.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

Related Articles

Ad Blocker Detected