When you think of the best acne-fighting products, the first things that come to mind might be all-stars like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinol.
While these products certainly live up to their reputations, there’s another lesser-known ingredient that doesn’t get enough credit for its acne-fighting benefits: azelaic acid.
“Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains like wheat, barley, and rye,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Stacy Chimento, MD, of Riverchase Dermatology in Gulf Harbor Islands, Florida.
It can also be produced by yeast on the skin. “It’s commonly found in creams, gels, or foams and can reduce inflammation, promote skin cell turnover, and relieve acne.”
Similar to other popular ingredients known for their skin-loving properties, azelaic acid has a variety of uses, but is best known for its ability to fight acne and rosacea.
“As an anti-inflammatory agent, azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, making acne less noticeable, less red, and less irritated,” says Dr. Chimento. Additionally, the ingredient can help clear pores of bacteria that can cause breakouts.
At the same time, it promotes cell turnover and slows the production of melanin, which can lead to hyperpigmentation and melasma.
Of course, there are a few things to keep in mind if you’re considering incorporating it into your daily skincare routine. First, it should be applied about 15 minutes after cleansing and before moisturizing so that it can be fully absorbed into the skin.
“Azelaic acid should be used morning and night, preferably with a moisturizer or serum,” says Dr. Aza Halim. “It should also be well blended into the skin or applied to dark spots and absorbed to avoid edges that make the skin look patchy.”
According to Dr. Chimento, you’ll usually want to take azelaic acid with something else, as it can take a while to see noticeable results when using the ingredient alone—but you should certainly be careful about what you mix it with.
“While azelaic acid can be mixed with almost any product, using it with beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid can increase the risk of dryness and irritation,” says Dr. Chimento.
“If you use an over-the-counter, stronger form of azelaic acid, you should consult your dermatologist before mixing or combining it with any ingredients or products.”
Anyone using azelaic acid may also experience side effects, such as irritation, redness, flaking, peeling skin, and/or hives, but not everyone experiences this.
If you have sensitive skin, Dr. Halim recommends slowly introducing this ingredient into your routine (start with a few times a week and then increase to daily use). However, if you notice any of the side effects listed above, you should discontinue use immediately. If you’re ready to make a change, read on to learn about some azelaic acid-rich products worth adding to your diet. 1. Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster: Azelaic acid isn’t the only active ingredient in this acne-fighting product. It also contains salicylic acid and licorice root to eliminate acne-causing bacteria on the skin while balancing skin texture and softening blemishes. 2. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%: Imagine adding four extra products to your skincare routine for less than $10 and experiencing the benefits of each. Here’s how to use this versatile, affordable product that reduces blemishes, evens out skin tone, and infuses your skin with antioxidants.
3. FaceTheory Lumizela Azelaic Acid Serum A10: This botanical serum with 10% azelaic acid clears skin bacteria and reduces blemishes. Plus, ingredients like oatmeal and aloe can minimize irritation,
the appearance or swelling caused by rosacea.
4. Sodium Azelaate Topical 10%: This product uses azelaic acid along with other key ingredients like vitamin C and niacinamide to minimize congestion, redness, and discoloration while reducing excess oil production.
5. Typology Oil Control Serum 10% Azelaic Acid: This lightweight serum can be massaged into skin morning and night to reduce excess oil production. According to some reviews, it’s also effective as a spot treatment.
6. PCA SKIN Pigment Gel: This gel-serum contains a combination of azelaic, lactic, and kojic acids to treat hyperpigmentation and brighten your skin by slowing down melanin production.
7. Dr. Brandt Dark Spot Eliminating Triple Acid Stain Minimizing Concentrate: This targeted treatment aims to fade dark spots and discoloration with tranexamic acid, a dermatologist’s go-to treatment for hyperpigmentation.
8. TULA Skincare Clear It Up Acne + Skin Correction Gel Clear skin doesn’t have to come at the expense of moisture. Enriched with azelaic and salicylic acids, this formula reduces the appearance of acne and prevents future breakouts without drying out the skin.
