Niacinamide + Azelaic Acid: The Ultimate Guide to Layering for Clearer Skin

Can I Use Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid at the Same Time?

When it comes to layering skincare ingredients, knowing which ones work well together is key to achieving healthy, radiant skin.

Two powerful and popular actives often asked about are niacinamide and azelaic acid.

Both ingredients offer unique benefits and target different skin concerns. But can they be used together?

In this post, we’ll explore how each works, their benefits, and how to safely combine them for optimal results.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye, as well as in yeast that naturally lives on the skin.

Though it’s often confused with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), azelaic acid has a unique chemical structure and works differently than these exfoliants.

It gently exfoliates the outer layers of dead skin cells, helping to clear clogged pores and remove dirt, excess oil, and debris. This makes it a great ingredient for reducing blackheads and blemishes.

Azelaic acid also boasts strong antibacterial properties. It combats Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), the bacteria responsible for acne flare-ups.

Its anti-inflammatory effects make it effective for calming rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions, reducing redness and swelling.

In addition, azelaic acid targets hyperpigmentation and dark spots, brightening the complexion and evening skin tone for a clearer appearance.

This acid is packed with antioxidants, which help protect the skin against environmental damage caused by free radicals, such as pollution, UV exposure, and even indoor heating.

Azelaic acid is typically formulated in concentrations ranging from 15% to 20%, with lower percentages common in over-the-counter products and higher percentages reserved for dermatologist prescriptions.

If you want to explore azelaic acid further, check out our dedicated blog post diving into all its benefits and how to use it.

What is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin naturally found in foods like brewer’s yeast and cereals.

It’s an incredibly versatile ingredient loved for its ability to improve the skin’s overall health and appearance.

Niacinamide stimulates collagen production, leading to plumper, firmer skin with fewer visible fine lines and wrinkles.

It effectively targets hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and age spots by preventing melanosome transfer. This process helps stop pigment from moving to the skin’s surface and forming dark patches.

Regulating sebum production is another key benefit, making niacinamide excellent for those prone to oily skin and acne breakouts.

Niacinamide is rich in antioxidants, which protect skin from oxidative stress caused by UV rays, pollution, and other environmental aggressors.

Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness, blotchiness, and irritation while smoothing uneven skin texture.

Niacinamide also promotes faster skin cell turnover, helping to brighten the complexion and improve tone.

To learn more, you can check out our detailed niacinamide blog post for tips on how to incorporate it into your routine.

How Do You Use Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid Together?

The best way to use niacinamide and azelaic acid together depends on the formulations they come in and your skincare routine’s layering order.

A general rule is to apply products with the thinnest consistency first, followed by thicker creams or oils. This allows for better absorption and effectiveness.

Azelaic acid is commonly found in toners, serums, or gels, often lighter in texture.

Niacinamide usually appears in serums, sometimes combined with hydrating ingredients to boost moisture levels after using exfoliating toners.

By applying azelaic acid first, you help clear away dead cells and impurities, preparing your skin for niacinamide’s soothing and hydrating benefits afterward.

Can You Mix Azelaic Acid with Niacinamide?

Yes, you absolutely can! In fact, combining these two ingredients is an excellent way to address multiple skin concerns while reducing the risk of dryness often caused by chemical exfoliants.

Because they work in complementary ways, there’s generally little to no side effects when layering niacinamide and azelaic acid—provided your skin tolerates the combination well.

Everyone’s skin is unique, though, so if you notice any irritation or discomfort, it’s wise to pause use and consult a dermatologist for tailored advice.

Should I Use Azelaic Acid or Niacinamide First?

This depends on the product texture and your skincare routine order.

Azelaic acid is often found in lighter formulations like toners or gels, which should be applied earlier in your routine right after cleansing.

Niacinamide, frequently present in serums, usually has a slightly thicker consistency and can be applied next to help hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier.

Niacinamide’s humectant properties draw moisture to the skin and help lock it in, which is essential after using an exfoliant like azelaic acid.

Maintaining a strong lipid barrier is vital for protecting your skin against free radicals, UV rays, pollution, and other environmental aggressors.

What Should You Not Mix with Niacinamide?

You may have heard old advice that niacinamide shouldn’t be used with vitamin C because they cancel each other out or cause irritation.

This idea stems from outdated studies when vitamin C formulations were unstable and prone to degrading when mixed with other ingredients.

However, modern skincare science has improved vitamin C stability drastically. Many brands now safely combine niacinamide and vitamin C in their products.

Therefore, don’t shy away from using both if your products are formulated properly. Just monitor your skin’s reaction and adjust if you notice sensitivity.

When Should Azelaic Acid Be Used in Your Routine?

Azelaic acid can be used twice daily once your skin builds tolerance, but timing depends on the product type.

Thinner formulations like toners or gels are applied early in your routine, just after cleansing.

Thicker creams or moisturizers containing azelaic acid should be applied later, after serums, to avoid creating a barrier that blocks absorption of other actives.

Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, making it easy to integrate into daily skincare.

If you’re unsure about sensitivity, performing a 24-hour patch test before full-face application can help prevent irritation or unwanted reactions.

Final Thoughts

Niacinamide and azelaic acid are two versatile, powerful ingredients that can transform your skin when used thoughtfully together.

They complement each other by targeting acne, hyperpigmentation, inflammation, and hydration simultaneously.

The key is layering correctly—usually azelaic acid first (if in a lighter formulation), followed by niacinamide serum. Always listen to your skin and adjust usage frequency if irritation occurs.

If you have any questions or want personalized skincare advice, don’t hesitate to reach out on Instagram—we’re here to help you achieve your best skin!

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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