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Octapeptide-45 in skin care
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Octapeptide-45 in skin care

16 January 2025


Octapeptide-45 in skin care




Octapeptide-45 is an advanced peptide that has gained attention in skincare due to its potent role in stimulating hyaluronic acid (HA) production. As a proprietary peptide used in advanced formulations like Alastin’s HA IMMERSE Serum®, Octapeptide-45 has become an exciting ingredient in the fight against skin aging. In this blog, we’ll explore what Octapeptide-45 is, how it works, its benefits, potential side effects, and how it can be used in combination with other skincare ingredients.



Found in Alastin Immerse HA Serum




Increases production of large MW hyaluronic acid



Soothing, hydrating and antiaging




Firms skin making it plump and youthful



What is Octapeptide-45?




Octapeptide-45 is a short-chain amino acid sequence, with a molecular weight of approximately 1,000 Daltons (Da), that primarily functions to stimulate the body’s production of hyaluronic acid, particularly high molecular weight (HMW) HA. Hyaluronic acid is a key substance in skin health, contributing to hydration, elasticity, and a youthful appearance. Unlike other peptides, Octapeptide-45 specifically targets and upregulates Hyaluronan Synthase-2 (HAS2) in dermal fibroblasts, which results in the production of HA molecules around 2 MegaDaltons (MDa) in size. These large HA molecules are known for their stability and resistance to enzymatic degradation, prolonging their effects in the skin.



Mechanism of Action




Octapeptide-45 works by enhancing the skin’s ability to produce its own high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. It stimulates dermal fibroblasts, the cells responsible for creating HA, by upregulating the HAS2 enzyme. The result is the generation of large HA molecules that offer superior hydration and skin regeneration. These large HA molecules are more resilient and less likely to break down, which ensures prolonged hydration and anti-aging effects. Additionally, this mechanism creates an anti-inflammatory environment in the skin, reducing redness and irritation, making Octapeptide-45 particularly beneficial for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea.



Benefits of Octapeptide-45




Octapeptide-45’s ability to increase hyaluronic acid in the skin leads to several significant improvements in skin appearance:



Reduction in Redness: Large MW HA helps reduce inflammation by blocking inflammatory pathways




Enhanced Radiance: Increased hydration makes the skin appear more luminous and vibrant.



Plumper-Looking Skin: By boosting the skin’s water-retention abilities, it appears fuller, tighter, and firmer




Improved Elasticity: The additional HA supports the skin’s structural integrity, making it more resilient and firm.



Reduction in Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Hydrated skin naturally plumps out fine lines, reducing their appearance.




Smoother Skin Texture: The boost in moisture and HA helps to create a more even, smoother-looking complexion.



Softness : Skin feels softer to the touch, thanks to the enhanced hydration.




These benefits make Octapeptide-45 a standout ingredient in anti-aging formulations.



Side Effects and Downsides




Octapeptide-45 is considered very safe, with minimal side effects reported in clinical trials. Nearly zero side effects were observed during studies, making it suitable for sensitive and wrinkle-prone skin types.



Products Containing Octapeptide-45




At this time, the only brand that uses this peptide technology is Alastin Skincare.



Alastin Skincare harness the power of Octapeptide-45 in it’s HA IMMERSE Serum®, which is specifically designed to boost hyaluronic acid production and provide long-lasting hydration. This serum is focused on delivering deep, long-term hydration using large molecular weight HA.




Compatibility with Other Ingredients



Some peptides do nto work well when combined with other ingredients. Octapeptide-45 can safely be used alongside other popular skincare ingredients such as retinol and hydroquinone. In fact, combining Octapeptide-45 with these active ingredients can enhance the overall benefits of a skincare routine.




Retinol, for instance, promotes skin cell turnover, while hydroquinone helps to even out skin tone. Octapeptide-45 supports these actions by ensuring the skin stays hydrated and calm, reducing the potential for irritation that can sometimes occur with these potent ingredients.



Conclusion




Octapeptide-45 offers a unique approach to antiaging skin care by increasing the skin’s hyaluronic acid levels, particularly high molecular weight HA. Its benefits of skin hydration, firming, and a reduction in fine lines make it very popular for use in many age groups. It can be used when you are as young as 20 because it does not cause sensitivity and it not an exfoliant. With minimal side effects, it’s a safe and powerful addition to any skincare routine, and its compatibility with other active ingredients like retinol and hydroquinone makes it versatile for a variety of skin concerns.



Stay tuned by subscribing to our newsletter where we share breakthroughs in skincare research. That way you can stay informed as the use of Octapeptide-45 continues to evolve. If you have questions, come join the discussion on Reddit at r/skintypesolutions.




Best References and Scientific Publications on Octapeptide-45



Baumann L. Antiaging Ingredients in Ch. 37 of Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)




Baumann, L. Ch. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)



Widgerow, A. D., Ziegler, M. E., Garruto, J. A., Mraz Robinson, D., Palm, M. D., Vega, J. H., & Bell, M. (2022). Designing topical hyaluronic acid technology—Size does matter…. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(7), 2865-2870.




Robinson, D. M., Vega, J., Palm, M. D., Bell, M., Widgerow, A. D., & Giannini, A. (2022). Multicenter evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(9), 3848-3858.































































DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
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