Panthenol in Skin Care

Panthenol is an alcohol that is increasingly common in a large variety skin care products. When it is absorbed into the skin, this water soluble compound becomes pantothenic acid (a form of vitamin B5) that can treat issues from dehydration to inflammation, even offering benefits in hair care.

Panthenol is non-comedogenic, meaning it is a safe moisturizing ingredient for acne prone skin types and is not likely to contribute to the development of comedones.

To find out if panthenol is a good addition to your custom skin care regimen, take our quiz and read below to get all the facts on this safe and beneficial skin care ingredient!

What is Panthenol?

Panthenol is an alcohol historically derived from plant and animal tissues, but in modern cosmetics is usually synthesized in a laboratory. Two common plants that contain panthenol are sunflowers and chamomile.

It’s primary function is as a humectant moisturizer, not too unlike glycerin or hyaluronic acid.

When absorbed by the skin, panthenol changes into pantothenic acid, a biologically active form of vitamin B5.

Unlike Niacinamide, which is a form of vitamin B3, panthenol exhibits no skin lightening properties.

Panthenol is broadly useful in skin care because it offers relief from dryness and may protect the skin from inflammation induced by allergens and irritants.

How does Panthenol work?

Panthenol is a water soluble humectant, this means it draws moisture into itself which brings that moisture towards the surface of the skin. (2,3) Humectants are extremely common as moisturizing ingredients and typically best for dry skin types.

The second notable function of panthenol is how it stimulates lipid synthesis in the skin. (4)

This property means that the essential lipids of the skin barrier (free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides) can be regulated in part through use of of this ingredient.

Since it aids in the genesis of skin barrier forming lipids, it is also considered used as a mild anti-inflammatory to treat conditions like rosacea although there is a paucity of research to support its anti-inflammatory claims. (5,6)

Take our quiz to find out if Panthenol fulfills any of your skin care needs!

Benefits

Panthenol has a number of relevant benefits in skin care, particularly as a moisturizing ingredient.

Some studies have found that panthenol has effects in treating sun damage and redness through its mild antioxidant properties (though far less than, say, vitamins C or E). (6)

Studies have found that panthenol is also very useful in hair care for maintaining the scalp and even strengthening individual strands of hair. (8-11)

Side-effects

There are no common notable side-effects associated with panthenol or vitamin B5 in skin care.

Like most ingredients, there exists a risk of mild contact dermatitis (general irritation) which can depend on whether you have an allergy to it or not. Otherwise, panthenol is non-comedogenic, does not form free radicals on the skin, nor does it cause inflammation.

The only side effects typically considered when using this ingredient are that overusing a humectant can result in a cycle of humectant dependency (like when you use lip balm too frequently, and that overuse of moisturizers can result in a change to the skin’s natural microbiome. Over moisturizing the skin creates a better environment for acne causing and other bacteria to grow on the skin.

Is it safe?

Panthenol has been rigorously studied by multiple independent research bodies and has been found safe

In particular, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel (CIR) and the Environmental Working Group (EWG) have deemed all common cosmetic formulations of panthenol as safe.

This ingredient has no risks of carcinogenesis nor toxicity or potent allergy.

That being said, a mild allergy is possible, so if you experience an allergic reaction there is probably a better humectant for you on the market (perhaps glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or even honey).

Panthenol for dry skin

Dry skin

Panthenol is primarily notable for being an effective humectant, meaning it is great at drawing moisture from deep within the skin to the surface. From this function alone, it is considered good for many dry skin types. (2)

Additionally, the lipid stimulating functions of this alcohol help maintain the skin barrier. A healthy skin barrier is less susceptible to transepidermal water loss, aka evaporation off of the skin.

Dry, irritated skin conditions such as eczema benefit from hydrating, anti-inflammatory compounds such as this one. Typically, humectants are used alongside occlusive moisturizing ingredients to replace the drawn moisture and keep it all within the skin. (12)

Inflammation

Inflammation is often an indicator of a damaged skin barrier (not always), which means ingredients that contribute to barrier repair are generally good anti-inflammatories.

Studies have found that panthenol is effective for barrier repair on the stratum corneum. (3)

Conditions like dry skin types with rosacea which present as dry, inflamed, red skin can benefit from applications of panthenol. (4)

Sun damage

Panthenol, though not the best for this problem, can be somewhat useful in treating sun damage. Sun damage is most effectively treated by antioxidant ingredients that can help eliminate free radical ions in the skin which often result in genetic damage.

Even though Panthenol is a B vitamin with slight antioxidant properties, there are better choices for treating significant sun damage. There is actually no strong evidence that panthenol is a good antioxidant. Vitamins like C & E are far more effective and proven as antioxidants.

To find a list of all our favorite antioxidant ingredients in categories, check out the blog linked here.

Panthenol for hair care

Hair care

One of the most exciting applications of panthenol in my opinion is as a hair care ingredient.

Panthenol has been observed to have multiple hair care benefits in research trials including scalp soothing/repair, the strengthening and protection of individual hair strands, keeping frizzy hair at bay, and even stopping the development of split ends. (8-11)

The scalp, like the rest of your skin, is vulnerable to dryness and inflammation; these are problems that can affect hair health in notable ways. A frail scalp might develop clogged pores which can prevent the growth of new hairs. Panthenol keeps the scalp moisturized which largely prevents this concern.

Individual hairs strands are kept hydrated by panthenol, making them less susceptible to breakage than otherwise. A dry hair is a hair at risk of breaking.

The same quality of hydration is why panthenol can prevent split ends; those are caused by dryness or the death of the end of a strand.

When hairs are moisturized they are also less likely to fray/frizz in dry temperatures.

It is important to note that your scalp is the same skin type as your face, so you should avoid over-moisturizing your hair if you have oily skin. Oily scalps with additional added moisture can result in comedones on the scalp and greasy, inelegant hair texture. When choosing a hair product, keep your skin type in mind.

Panthenol vs glycerin

Panthenol vs Glycerin

Both panthenol and glycerin are humectants, and both are of course water soluble.

Glycerin can navigate the Aquaporin channels between skin cells, while panthenol has not displayed this property in research.

Both are alcohols, (glycerin is also called glycerol, with -ol usually indicating an alcohol).

Both can be derived from animals, and companies are not required to disclose the origins of either on product labels.

Glycerin is the more effective humectant in terms of skin hydration, but panthenol exhibits a number of properties that glycerin does not; these include lipid synthesis stimulation, soothing of redness, and wound healing acceleration.

Neither ingredient is comedogenic, so your use of one or the other is broadly up to you.

Is Panthenol Vegan?

The short, simple answer is that panthenol is most often vegan for cosmetic uses, but it has historically been (and in some cases is still) derived from animal tissues, e.g the liver of mammals.

This is a similar concern to the origins of ingredients like glycerin or cholesterol, both of which can also be derived from vegan, animal, or synthetic sources at the volition of the production companies.

Unfortunately, companies are not required to share the animal background of their ingredients. Often, companies that care to be vegan indicate that feature on their product labels, but that is frankly a marketing move and should be standard disclosure.

Some companies label their vegan panthenol as Vegan-HDS-Panthenol, but again they don’t have to do this. It’s super tricky to stay vegan with skin care.

In modern cosmetics, a vast majority of panthenol is reported to be synthetic, though very little evidence is publically available to make that claim.

If you are concerned that your panthenol may be one of the extreme few animal derived versions of it, your best bet to get good information might be to call the manufacturer of that product personally, and hope they know their own science.

Alternatively, here is a link to PETA’s registry of animal derived ingredients.

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DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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